Jump to content
SAU Community

BCNR33 Series 1 - Momo Factory Option Steering Wheel


Hella_GTR
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Quick question for my recently purchased Series 1 BCNR33 here in Japan.  Does the factory option momo steering wheel, like the one in the link below, functionally work, plug and play so-to-say, for a series 1?  I know the Series 1 and different from the Series 2 and 3 with respect to the airbag module.  So I would imagine a momo steering wheel for a series 1 would be different than the series 2/3 momo factory option steering wheels.  That all said, I can't find any confirming info on the momo wheel if it was offered only for the series 1 or not. 

Bottom line is the series 1 wheel is pretty ugly and looking for a functional option to make it...better.

Thanks for any help!

 

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b413673374

momo steering wheel.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Hate to bring this back alive but another really clean momo wheel popped up on yahoo auctions. If anyone knows if the momo optional wheel works on the Series 1, please let me know 👍 thank you 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bcnr33/3935-rb26dett/misc/D84/KD8400/

Survey says no, the Momo wheel only works with Skylines from 8/1996. I got over the series 1 wheel eventually but I grew up with cars that had those massive airbags. I figure it's probably less likely to fail than the newer airbags as well, seems like the 1st generation air bags in the 90s have been less likely to turn into anti-personnel mines with age.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes I have done this conversion on a mates car and physically it fits no problem.

The conversion that I did was on a NON airbag model and could be left disconnected

HOWEVER as to the functionality of the air bag electronics it will be a bit of a dilemma.

Even if you change over the signal wire plugs to the airbag you cant test it as you will blow apart the very rare and expensive Momo wheel you've just bought.

If you leave it disconnected you air bag light will come on as it senses an error.

So you have to consider what you want to do, leave the airbag disconnected (not legal in anyway and if it all goes pear shaped you will be liable in a big way) and pull out the bulb so the light doesn't come on and drive you nuts.

Or make it look good and hope for the best

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, PLYNX said:

Yes I have done this conversion on a mates car and physically it fits no problem.

The conversion that I did was on a NON airbag model and could be left disconnected

HOWEVER as to the functionality of the air bag electronics it will be a bit of a dilemma.

Even if you change over the signal wire plugs to the airbag you cant test it as you will blow apart the very rare and expensive Momo wheel you've just bought.

If you leave it disconnected you air bag light will come on as it senses an error.

So you have to consider what you want to do, leave the airbag disconnected (not legal in anyway and if it all goes pear shaped you will be liable in a big way) and pull out the bulb so the light doesn't come on and drive you nuts.

Or make it look good and hope for the best

Pretty sure the reason why it's not compatible is because the series 1 airbag has both the controller and the airbag in the wheel. The later series 2/3 wheels relocate the control unit. You would have to follow this conversion guide to do it right: https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/r33-single-twin-airbag-conversion.8977/

Like I said, more effort than it's worth IMO. If you really want to do it you can, but I've made my peace with the steering wheel. One of those things where the more you look at it the less awful it becomes. At least they never put into production another prototype wheel which joined the bottom two spokes into one big spoke that looked especially awful.

It's also worth mentioning, if you have the dual airbag setup it really complicates access to the evaporator box if you ever need to repair the HVAC door servo.

Edited by joshuaho96
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys, thank you for the confirmation on my suspicions.  I am glad I didn't pull the trigger.  Honestly since the time I wrote the original post to now, the original wheel has grown on me.  Most guys I know here in Japan just pull it off and put on a non-airbag wheel. I also won't need an airbag in the US (odd since I'd have to do California compliance).  I actually like the safety of it but opt for a non airbag wheel if I begin to track the car.  I wish I had a dual airbag s1 but mine only has the drivers side.  I will say the old original wheel has a unique 90's car feel to it.  Thanks for the link as well.  Original wheel FTW.  


Thanks again guys, I get a lot of help from this site.  I can't find an online resource like this that the locals use.  Blogs seem to be the thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would absolutely be starting with this idea over all other possibilities. It sounds f**ked.
    • Lighting in the shed looks real good! Not lying, have shed envy lol. Maybe one day I can fk off from Metro Sydney.
    • I would be cautious with those 2000/2200 CNG injectors, swap them out for a set of 1550 aka 1650 Bosch stainless ones before you take out a motor.
    • I tested them all a couple times, haven't tested it warm or wet though. The only seemingly really weird thing was the cylinders plug closest to the dash was pitch black nearly.  Doesn't smoke out of the exhaust or anything.    Also sorry everyone for the very late response. Got busy with work and all and didn't get around to fooling with the car for awhile.  But an update! I figured out the cause of the lean condition, my intercooler had at some point exploded or something. It's clearly separated in a spot with black oily buildup around the leak, and multiple leaks in various vacuum lines. I've replaced it and the vacuum lines, and gotten new clamps and there are 0 leaks now after doing a couple smoke tests.   The car now runs significantly better and the exhaust doesn't overheat anymore. I still have the main problem though where the engine feels like I'm lugging it around sub 3500rpm in any gear besides 1st, 2nd It's less noticeable but 3rd anything under 3.5k and I need to downshift or the engine is clearly struggling when trying to accelerate at all, 4th is the exact same, sub 3.5k engine won't accelerate and its hard to bring it back up to speed, 5th gear doesn't feel like the car is going to straight up fall apart now but it still can't pull 5th. It slowly loses speed and rpm and ANY gas I give I can feel the shakes from the engine and it slowly dying. If I ever so lightly give it gas it will slowly and nicely decel till around 2k rpm instead of lugging. But it cannot accelerate at all or maintain speed.   If I go from first gear at 5 or 6krpm and then shift to second it also feels like it's struggling to make power till above 3krpm if trying to accelerate but I can cruise around parking lots at around 1-2krpm just fine in 2nd. It's just when accelerating hard it and changing gear you really notice it die down.  But even if you shift at way lower rpms it does the same thing till somewhere above 3k.  As far as I'm aware it's got r32 gtr transmission gear ratios with gts4 diffs. The tire size is 205/55r16 91h Above 3500rpm the car pulls and runs and drives quite normally and the power from engine sounds and feels very smooth.  It's perfectly driveable at above 3.5krpm but I drive on the highway alot for work and it gets really bad gas mileage in 4th at 4.4krpm. Not that I'm looking for great gas mileage with such a car, just I'm sure being at around 3krpm would be significantly better for it.    Have appreciated all your guys help. I do understand the engine may just be f**ked from running with a boost leak though.    One final thing I'd like to add is I'm only shifting so high in the rpm range is because if I don't I will feel the engine lugging bad with 0 power in lower rpms, pretty much anytime off boost trying to accelerate it feels really bad.  Also when I say 3500 rpm I don't mean exactly. Just around there. 
    • So what did you end up doing ?  and is it still alive today ?    
×
×
  • Create New...