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Nice work. I love the grinding rug to catch the sparks for safety, good idea!

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42 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Nice work. I love the grinding rug to catch the sparks for safety, good idea!

Haha hey, it definitely helped save my nice concrete floor from catching fire so that's a bonus!

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Got the main components for my mild fuel setup in the mail recently:
- Bosch 1000cc injectors
- Billet top feed fuel rail (black)
- Turbosmart FPR800 fuel pressure regulator (black) + worlds tiniest gauge haha

All I need is a fuel pump and that's fueling taken care of!

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I also picked dynamically flow matched injectors so all 6 are within 2% of each other at multiple duty cycles for peace of mind.

Haven't had a chance to get them out and into the rail just yet, probably won't get a chance to do much more with the stagea for a while as we're moving house soon and it's actually running at the moment (for once!) so that is the priority for the time-being.

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I (pretty unexpectedly to be honest) picked up a leather interior from a S2 Stagea on the weekend... and if anyone ever asks, you can fit the entire set of front + rear seats into both a CJ Lancer with 3 passengers (somehow!), as well as in an SG Forester (kind of expected that though).

These seats are electric and also heated which is a HUGE upgrade. However my S1 Stagea has a slightly different electric plug in the floor (2 pin) which doesn't connect to the new seats (4 pin). I have the harnesses coming which have been cut out of the body loom and I'll just need to solder them into mine in place of the ones I have. It will be a little bit of fiddling but shouldn't be too hard to figure it out plus will be WELL worth it. 

I also got the S2 centre console which has the switch panel. 

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Time to say goodbye to the old "pov pack" cloth seats...

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And time to start living that VIP life...

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I'm honestly stoked with them despite not setting out to get a set. The seller needed a double din stereo and I wanted to ditch the one that came in my Stagea (to fit a single din stereo instead) so we swapped... win win?

 

There are some differences I still need to address like:

- the seatbelt buckles (fronts, at the bottom of the seats) are different from S1 to S2 so I just have to swap my buckles over 
- the harnesses to make the electrics work (as said above I have them coming)
- and the centre console...

 

The S2 console physically bolts into my S1 but the top box screw points are slightly different, see 2nd and 3rd pics below:

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I can make it work by using some new, long, self tapping screws and it will fit snug but I'm not sure yet if I want to do that or just try and find a S2 top box. We'll see!

Edited by mosquitocoils
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Thats a nice upgrade. Just went back and read the whole thread, good effort on the liitle things like the sound mate on the speaker mounts. Will be a nice daily/fun weekender once its all together. Have looked at stageas for a daily but didn't need another "project" car.
One thing I've found with those china manifolds was to cut the t3 flange off, remove some of the collector and lay the flange over a bit to help with strut tower clearance. If you want it to drive a bit nicer down low try and find a factory intake and fit a plazmaman style plenum helps a lot with low down torque.

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On 7/22/2020 at 3:14 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

One thing I've found with those china manifolds was to cut the t3 flange off, remove some of the collector and lay the flange over a bit to help with strut tower clearance.

Thanks for the kind words and that tip man. I'm honestly leaning towards upgrading the whole hot side once I finish getting the ECU and fuel all setup properly and going with a proper branded turbo (a little smaller like 3076 size) and 6 boost manifold IDEALLY depending on $$. Would rather the peace of mind not using cheap gear down the track. But it's serving it's purpose of 'proof of concept' for the time being so we'll see.

Quote

If you want it to drive a bit nicer down low try and find a factory intake and fit a plazmaman style plenum helps a lot with low down torque.

Funny you say that! I picked up a stock intake manifold recently for cheap with the intention of either doing a cut and shut forward facing manifold which retains the stock runners, or just going all out and getting the plazmaman top half. Either way I want those stock runners for exactly this reason. From what I've seen I'm probably losing around 500rpm from my torque curve without them :(

Edited by mosquitocoils
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I got the S2 seat harness over the weekend and booyyy there's a lot going on there. Below you can see I had it roughly laid out with everything going in the rough direction they would in the car. The black taped harnesses go to each seat, the yellow taped harnesses plug into the car floor area, and everything comes together and runs to the two switches in the console.

I rigged up another battery I had so I could test what would work etc as the guy I got the harness from cut this out of the main loom that runs through the car, so there are a number of cut wires I couldn't figure out easily although I suspected that each of them would basically need to connect to 12v or ground.

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After having some time to play with it I realised the following:

- the 'power' portion of the seat is literally just 12v + ground, the wires more or less go straight to the seat plug and are quite thick

- the 'heater' portion of the seat is a separate circuit that runs through a relay that isn't in the S1 Stagea (using thin wires to activate the relay) and draws the "working" 12v needed from the above thick 12v line

- the S2 floor harness has a 4-pin connector for the seatbelts whereas the seatbelt itself only puts out 3 wires... the 4th wire seems to come from the console switches - maybe this means the heater can't be turned on turning on unless the seatbelt is done up? I would love if someone could verify this

Anyway I was a little pressed for time so I never finished deciphering the heater circuit wires. Being in QLD I'm also not too fussed about the heaters although they would be nice for show. I decided to simply worry about getting power to the seats so I can move them and if I want to down the track (when I have more time) I can pull them out and keep working with the rest of the harness that's going to live in that random "TO DO" box in my garage...

Now that I've bored you with what I couldn't do, let's talk about what I COULD do!

Here is the main 2-pin seat connector in my S1, coming up from under the carpet under the seat. These pins supply constant 12v and ground:

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Here is the 4-pin seat connector from under the carpet of a S2... these have the same 12v and ground as above (for seat power), as well as a 12v and ground for the heater circuit. 

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So long story short I figured out which 2 out of the 4 wires were meant to give the seats power, and cut the plugs off and soldered the 4-pin connector onto my 2-pin cable, just leaving the extra 2 wires tucked away/unused. The main 12v wire was the white wire and was thicker gauge than all the rest. The ground was the black wire in both S1 and S2 which made it easy.

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(Yes I twisted the wires together but just for testing! Once finished I soldered and covered correctly). Then I put the seats back in and connected all the plugs.

With that done, I was finally above to move the seats forward (you might be able to tell from the previous post they were extended all the way to the back)

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I also decided to keep using my S1 centre console as the lid simply doesn't sit right. There are little tabs around the edge that you can't see, but stop the top box section sitting flat/flush with the centre console itself so I would need a S2 top box. Since I'm not using the heaters it doesn't really matter, but I'm definitely starting to get ideas for what else I could use those OEM looking switches for...

Edited by mosquitocoils
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