Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


I'm baaack: C34 Stagea


Recommended Posts

Sweet.  What's the point of the mechanical gauge? Surely they are so outdated now, and you would really want a engine protection strategy based on fuel pressure.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/22/2021 at 9:57 PM, Ben C34 said:

Sweet.  What's the point of the mechanical gauge? Surely they are so outdated now, and you would really want a engine protection strategy based on fuel pressure.

You're right, I will be adding a couple of sensors for engine protection. But for right now the gauge is enough to get my base pressure set and was only like $30 or something. The equivalent sensors to run to the ECU are $100-$250ea from what I've found so far, so will take a little more planning.

I'm leaning towards getting my tuner to do them while he's doing everything else as I am leaving him a couple of small wiring jobs to finish off, mainly cause I don't feel comfortable hacking up the $700 Haltech harness myself hahaha.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Managed to drive sedately just one suburb over to a local car meet and got some neat pics.

Worked some more on my idle with the new injectors as well. I forgot I had slightly adjusted the main/base fueling table to get it running stoich at idle/cruising (with the new turbo but only standard injectors) and even though I looked over the table a bunch of times it didn't click. I adjusted those 9 or so cells related to idle and cruising and she sounds really good and sitting solidly on the rich side of stoich. It still swings lean on throttle tip-in (normal) but only for a second then drops down to the 12-13 range. Still not perfect and I'm keeping off boost/not pushing it hard, but I'm now more comfortable to drive it to my tuners shop now. 

Also got my base fuel pressure dialed in better by replacing the vacuum hose from inlet manifold to regular. I dunno wtf that blue hose I was using was (came with the car, looks like the kind you get in an ebay boost controller kit) but it was really flimsy thin (probably porous) "rubber" so I replaced it with some new typical black vacuum hose and also re-tightened the locking nut on top of the FPR and now it's dropping from 42-43psi down to just over 30psi which I think is about right. Sometimes it's the simple things!

Anyway... pics -

IMG_4259.thumb.JPG.049bd65c3f2b65ce8804cf9ab813241b.JPG

IMG_4257.thumb.JPG.6cdebfd9f4e9543bf710b9be1cfd8334.JPG

IMG_4258.thumb.JPG.50ebb03a49b1fa3f3fbb095cbc58438a.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

In order to save a few bucks I decided to wire in a couple of things myself before dyno time which turned out to be pretty easy. 

I re-purposed the stock boost solenoid wiring to run the new Haltech boost solenoid and mounted it in the same place. Of course for right now I have the duty cycle turned down to 0 at all load points (so still running only wastegate pressure to drive to my tuner) but I did verify it worked by changing the DC and listening to the solenoid clicking away.

 IMG20210818205231.thumb.jpg.80c701590b1a0f6c1dfa2ed3599bbcf7.jpg


Then... I committed sacrilege... I CUT THE MAF CONNECTOR OFF :50_open_mouth:

IMG20210818215517.thumb.jpg.729104ec2c19c8eb88e3be788a534be4.jpg

IMG20210818220148.thumb.jpg.f7a820d9821ef6d564fa5a66c1a3c1a4.jpg

...So that I could re-use two of the MAF wires for my new Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor, following the below guide for my RB25 S2 (white wire with blue trace = ground; orange wire with black trace = signal). I terminated the remaining MAF wire  (12v) and threw the connector plug in the bin where it belongs... (not really, it's sitting safely in my old MAF which is sitting in my spare parts pile)

Screenshot_2021-08-18-21-57-29-19_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.thumb.jpg.8267f0b5544f4a6a2cee60ad1c765a5f.jpg

Since I'm using a Haltech Elite it was really easy to change the wiring in the software, I didn't need to re-pin anything at the ECU. I just had to "remove" the MAF input in the software then reassign that input to IAT sensor input and it seems to work perfectly I.E. about 18-20 degrees at night then shot up to 40-50 degrees instantly when I held a lighter near it and dropped down when I removed the heat source.

IMG20210818220433.thumb.jpg.9a1ec4b0b6c9a88729532de94404b5de.jpg

Then I ran a long two core wire across the radiator support and down to my cold side intercooler piping where I drilled and tapped the corresponding hole for the sensor. 

IMG20210818221025.thumb.jpg.54e91c36f0f3e60b1a576a64a3753dc1.jpg

IMG20210821133349.thumb.jpg.9908f24feb404509386bde9d594979f0.jpg

Coilpacks and fuel pump should be in the next week...

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

It's been a few weeks and I did in fact manage to get coilpacks done.

The PRP kit is such high quality and comes with their shorter stalks so I can fit my valley cover if I ever want to again (which I likely will. The kit  comes with genuine Hitachi coils, shorter stalks, replacement loom and the billet bracket as well as all bolts for fitting.

IMG20210829203837.thumb.jpg.1fb979848469c25f2be558ec3814c2ea.jpg

IMG20210830191529.thumb.jpg.4ae6c61f2f286070afb12d25a4f00a9e.jpg


It looks great once fitted... shame about my cam covers though haha

IMG20210831203237.thumb.jpg.eabea8be8575f2c72b8b7fc265f4610f.jpg


The only issue I ran into was the eyelet on the new loom that's used to ground the coilpacks was the wrong size to fit where my stock ground bolts to... so I cut it off and spliced into the original ground, which I also reconnected to the same bolt. 

IMG20210831211156.thumb.jpg.596b99a83cdd31697f86ac745335dada.jpg
 

I added a spade connector so I can remove quickly and easily in future without having to also unbolt the ground wire from the back of the head (being a S2 RB25, having no igniter box etc).

IMG20210901210312.thumb.jpg.944a8e1dfd2a5329859013c0c076419a.jpg


The finished product:

IMG20210901211900.thumb.jpg.1ed6049833e41ea975900c19346ee3cf.jpg


Once that was all hooked up it fired up right away with no weird hesitations etc. I played with the dwell settings in the Haltech but using PRP's suggested settings made it run like crap... so I reverted to the stock dwell times and she's running mint. I'll leave that up to the tuner. 

IMG20210831203229.thumb.jpg.36fceed82e82090682534efbee779138.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/9/2021 at 6:02 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

PRP dwell times are way too high. At 14v I only have 3ms

Right! I'm glad you said that, I was wondering what I'd done wrong haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 09/10/2021 at 7:55 PM, mosquitocoils said:

Right! I'm glad you said that, I was wondering what I'd done wrong haha

I used to run the recommended dwell too, then Alex from Birrong had a look at my tune when I was using his dyno and recommended I dropped the dwell.

This may have also fixed the misfiring issue as well, however can't fully attribute to this because at the same time swapped out the iridium plugs to coppers at the same time.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Latest Posts

    • All the Pro and Comp series IC are made to order. Unfortunately not off the shelf as you would think. I waited 2 months for mine LOL...
    • Thanks mate, great advice. I just need to try and get one by the end of November now.. it can't hurt doing both and taking outside air in from the bumper or something like that.
    • Hey man its been a very long time since i've been on the thread sorry man. Really good to see your car getting along, sounds like a lot of effort and love has been put into it. Currently my car is regoed in victoria as a non turbo from before the conversion lol, so that front mount might cause a bit of suspicion. All the work to the motor was carried out by rajab racing down here in melb, and its a bloody ripper of an engine. Has the beautiful iconic turbo dose. Still currently running the factory 5 speed gearbox so we'll see how long that holds up. Currently only making about 140kw on pretty low boost, once a stronger gearbox and possibly internals are bought and installed im hoping for around the 200-250kw mark. Car goes hard for what it is, extremely fun to drive. Here are some photos, will post some more exterior and interior ones soon if you like. Only exterior change is installed black ti wheels because they look much better than the silo wheels on the white car. 
    • Half the kit is here so got a start. Just jap rears from eBay here in a few days, sleeka spares front kit direct from them, still stuck in Melbourne (rom SA) since the 22nd =\ Realised I do not have a 36mm socket so couldn't remove the rear hub, which is the half of the kit I have. Plan was to disconnect the arms to swivel the knuckle down to remove drive shaft and get access to the bolts at the back, after disconnecting them all the thought occurred to me that I can probably just disconnect the shalf at the diff and push it out of the hub instead and leave the arms, oh well.  Do have a 30mm so prep'd the front. In love with new impact gun, in love with hoist, in love with small 12v power ratchet, Wish I had bought some of this years ago, makes life and working on the car so much nicer.  Car looking even sadder now.
    • Plazmaman Pro or Hypertune are the go. Plazmaman more likely available straight off the shelf and a bit cheaper.   In all honesty, I would do the intercooler before you do too much else. Airboxes arent as essential as a lot believe, they do make a difference and they help and given they're fairly cheap and simple to make its not a terrible idea, but - an airbox isn't going to bring 60° charge temps down very much at all. 80° ambient temperature at the pod filter isn't terrible, your turbo is going to be heating the charge air a lot more than that. So your intercooler sounds horrendously inefficient.  Cold air intakes from outside the engine bay are also unnecessary, the positive lift and drag you cause by doing that is more harmful to performance than warm IAT's. Unless you can duct air in from an existing opening in your front bumper. But in reality there is already plenty of cold air going to your pod filter, these engine bays are not stagnant pockets of hot air, there is plenty of movement in there. Get good intercooler, fit that, go for a retune. If your intake temps are still up over 50°, then think about making an airbox and fitting a water sprayer etc. But I bet you'll find a Plazmaman Pro cooler has your charge temps back down around the low 40's
×
×
  • Create New...