Jump to content
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Links

Changing R33 GTR Turbos - advice

Recommended Posts

All,

I've picked up a set of GT2860-7's for my R33 GTR and looking at swapping them out myself (yes have read through the pleasure that this will be).

Am after some advice on the following:

Thanks in advance.

Links

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Curved scanners are bloody helpful! Help you get to some of the turbo to manifold bolts that are hiding around corners. 

Uni joint sockets are a must. 

A couple of things to do while you’re at it are replace your manifold studs and fit braided lines. Piss the hard lines off. Makes life soooo much easier for refitting and removing next time. 

Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great - thanks for that, exactly what I wanted to know.

Will look at getting the stud kit then and replace those and save having to do it again. Re: Braided lines - good thoughts - something like this I assume - https://www.ebay.com/c/651282471

Cheers - might need it, or just some patience!

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also get plenty of wd40 etc on the studs and hard lines for a couple of days before. 

The biggest (unexpected) thing is normally studs failing and snapping, so if you can have them freed up as possible before you start it will really help. Once a stud has given out you might be lucky and able to get it off with whatever remains, or you might have to drill and easi out it which is where the job turns into a disaster. Heat /blow torch can really help if you don't like how it feels when you are undoing it.

The hard lines often won't free up from the banjo properly so they turn with it an eventually snap, so like Ewan said aftermarket braided lines handy means you don't have to worry about that.

Good luck mate!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Duncan - yeah the studs snapping is on my mind - good advice to get some WD40 on it for a few days leading into it and just taking it easy. Will factor that in definitely.

Sounds like braided lines are the way to go.

Thanks - the good luck's piling in...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For farks sake mate, WD40, CRC 5.56 ect is fine in a pressurised can so you can spray it, and what MOST mechanics who work on these jobs to free up the nuts and bolts will use in the real world.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 13/10/2019 at 12:32 PM, Shoota_77 said:

Curved scanners are bloody helpful! Help you get to some of the turbo to manifold bolts that are hiding around corners. 

Uni joint sockets are a must. 

A couple of things to do while you’re at it are replace your manifold studs and fit braided lines. Piss the hard lines off. Makes life soooo much easier for refitting and removing next time. 

Good luck!

This. I still remember the nut in the corner of the rear turbo. Probably took me 1/2 day to figure out how to get it off. In the end i bought a small spanner(i think 12?) and grinded the corners. Also, not a big thing, but lining up the water/oil lines was a bit of a pita as well.

If you have friends it would def help. Also look at replacing all the gaskets and washers at the same time. Personally, if i was doing that again, I'd rather pay someone!!! Its a fkn pita, esp in a tiny garage on axle stand only!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The best advice anyone can give is if you don’t have genuine mechanical experience, get someone who does 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
27 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Feel free to ignore.

Replace it with a single twin scroll turbo, because you're going to eventually put a single on it.

I used to argue this. Now I don't and I haven't even driven it yet!!

The simplicity of the single is a definite advantage. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

Stubbs are great but if you don't have them already get the two different types of curly spanners. Not useful till you need them then they become life saving!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To do this job I’ve got s shaped spanners, crows feet, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive socket sets with lots of various length extensions, rattle gun, ratchet ring spanners, normal spanners, offset spanners and the list goes on. 
 

I have doing this job down to art now but I was a mechanic and am lucky enough to have a very extensive range of tools at my disposal 

I’ve also seen more then my fair share of people who have f**ked this job attempting it 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Perfect, sounds like you’ve got all the right stuff!

Doing a rough count in my head I have 14 sets of different spanners, possibly more. I feel I may have a sickness...

2 sets of cheap metric I use most of the time

1 set of long shank

1 set metric stubby

1 set metric stubby ratchetting

1 set normal length ratcheting

1 set metric double ring

1 set imperial double ring

1 set imperial standard spanners

1 set metric S spanners

1 set metric C spanners

1 set crows foot spanners

1 set I keep in my Ute

plus I think there’s a set of stubby imperial spanners out there somewhere!

Most of them are cheap shit apart from a few.  I sold my snap on stuff years ago when I got home from the tools and needed money to fund a stupid lifestyle....

This wasn’t a dick swinging contest but would be curious if anyone had any more than that for a non commercial setup! 😂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have SK Wayne stuff I bought as an apprentice. All in perfect condition apart from the odd piece I have lost, Sadly its not available any more.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, djr81 said:

Has good spanners.  Uses the cheap stuff so doesnt ruin his good spanners....😊

This is 100% correct! 😂😂

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...