Jump to content
SAU Community

rb25/30 build questions


kazern
 Share

Recommended Posts

So im about to purchase a 30 for a e36 25/30 build and was wondering a few things so my questions are 

  • will a rb25 wiring loom need much changing apart from the e36 side of things? (ill be ordering a e36 rb25 loom)
  • for a 25 box i just need a 25 slave and starter?
  • is haltec the only real way to go ecu wise or could i nistune a 25 ecu
  • what power can stock studs handle
  • is there a reason i shouldnt use a n/a 25 head and ecu if i dont want to turbo it straight away

above all that i dont want to make big power straight away just want it to be usable 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RB25 ECU cannot be Nistuned. You can use a Nistuned R32 ECU, with a little fiddling. Going to that effort, you should probably just use a Haltech/Link/whatever the first time. You will not get a 3L to run off a 25 NA ECU.

All RB starters fit.

Don't worry about the studs. But if you are mating a different head to a different block, then you have a prize opportunity to put ARP studs in at the outset. Don't think about it as spending more money than you need to. Think about it simply as being a bloody good idea.

There's nothing wrong with using an NA head. The best choice used to be the (now rather hard to find) R32 RB25 NA head (because no VCT).

The wiring loom, for the most part, attaches to shit on the head. Not the block. But don't go into this thinking that you won't  have to sort out some plugs and shit here and there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think s2  stageas and er34 rbs are supported with nisture and is there a major issue with a n/a ecu?

yeah someone mentioned rb30 starters dying using a 25 gbox is all

and yeah studs and a few other things were on the books just weather or not to do it now or later i dont know as the head will likely come off within six months for better pistons and rods 

as for the loom yeah i already have to modify the loom im getting from wiring specialties as the e36 dash needs a bmw sensor to replace a nissan one on the motor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Neo ECU is for Neo, not vanilla 25. Has some sensors that the vanilla one doesn't have, leading you to have to dick around to try to make it work. Just skip it. Do the ECU properly.

NA ECU, or any ECU for a 2.5L motor, should not be expected to fuel a 3L motor correctly without tuning. Vanilla RB25 ECUs cannot be tuned (easily - certainly don't take Nistune), ergo, they should not be contemplated for this sort of job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But your running 1.6 bar of boost, is it still 12 degrees of timing at 1.6 bar of boost? Also, is there e85 fuel at the petrol stations in Dubai?
    • swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change
    • Congratulations on your find  Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)
    • Well considering I have the exact same problem with that as the original one I don't think that the ignitor is the problem. I would imagine that this being such an uncommon problem the possibility of getting a new ignitor that is bad in the same way as the old one has to be very slim. I'll definitely pull everything apart this weekend and check the turbo out. Got quite a bit of things to check out Saturday like fuel pressure and the pcv so I'll report back once I do that.  Thanks everyone for all the replies this is all really helpful  
×
×
  • Create New...