Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25 CAS vs Trigger kit


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, first time poster, looking for some advice/help with my R33 S2 gtst.

Pretty sure my CAS just died as the car cranks but wont start. A few weeks ago I took it out to get to my power steering pump and the key on the camshaft side was snapped and floating around.

I managed to realign it when I put the car back together and it ran with no issues. Went down to start it yesterday and the car would not start. Cranked with enough battery voltage to start, ecu came out with code 55 so I have nothing else to suspect other than the CAS being faulty. I took the spark plugs out and they didnt smell like petrol.

Going test with a multimeter to make sure but I had a question before I go ahead and buy a new CAS for $550 (if anyone has one id buy it for cheaper, im located in Sydney).

I have a power fc I have yet to install, and I have not been able to find anywhere a Trigger kit that says it will work or have enough information of their page. Since ill probably have to get a new CAS my thought was why not just upgrade to trigger kit for around the same price, or just a little bit more. I'm not particularly aiming to make power that requires a trigger kit, but aligning the CAS everytime without the key is gonna get annoying. (I will eventually upgrade to tomei cams but am holding off until I finish the rest of the work I need done)

I've had a look at most of the trigger kits out there (PRP, Ross, Hi Octance, etc.) but if anyone has any insight whether any of them will work with a Power FC that would be helpful!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/VG30DETT_CAS_COUPLING_MISALIGNMENT.pdf

You need to repair the CAS regardless if you want to run a PowerFC. Also I would recommend keeping the CAS for its actual purpose, which is a cam sensor. The OEM CAS is great at syncing the engine quickly during cranking as it has distinct home signals for each cylinder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

The OEM CAS is great at syncing the engine quickly during cranking as it has distinct home signals for each cylinder.

Yeah, but that's only true for stock type ECUs. The Nissan ECu seems to be able to punch through the jittery noise of the stock CAS at high rpm much better than all other ECUs. All the aftermarket ECUs just suck compared to the factory ECU, perhaps with the PowerFc being halfway between (as I suspect the PFC as being based on a Hitachi ECU anyway). But for anything where there is serious risk of timing jitter killing the engin at high rpm and loads (ie, any serious build), the factory CAS sucks balls and should be replaced with a proper trigger system - which includes a new cam sensor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, but that's only true for stock type ECUs. The Nissan ECu seems to be able to punch through the jittery noise of the stock CAS at high rpm much better than all other ECUs. All the aftermarket ECUs just suck compared to the factory ECU, perhaps with the PowerFc being halfway between (as I suspect the PFC as being based on a Hitachi ECU anyway). But for anything where there is serious risk of timing jitter killing the engin at high rpm and loads (ie, any serious build), the factory CAS sucks balls and should be replaced with a proper trigger system - which includes a new cam sensor.

I was under the impression that the cam signal is not particularly difficult to parse and could be left alone, it was really just the crank signal that was particularly problematic. Has anyone tried running the OEM cam signal + aftermarket crank trigger?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info guys.

Just went to test the CAS with a multimeter and all seems fine to me, getting readings on power and the 2 signal wires and can also hear the injectors clicking as I spin the shaft. Kind of at a loss from where to go from here. Am I missing something?

Since it looks like it's a good idea to replace the exhaust cam, which drop in cams should I go for that wouldn't require an immediate tune?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm trying to maintain stock appearance . Hicas is still installed (although has lockout kit) did you retain factory fuel pump hat? If so I assume you used a bulkhead fitting or similar ?  I was also trying to avoid a full re design as it was previously dynoed at 426kw atw with same setup but different pump. Changing return line would also mean having to change ethanol sensor and fpr and possibly fuel rail. Not chasing more power in any way just reliability of the setup 
    • I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
    • @niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙.
    • Never cheap out on brakes, tyres, suspension. I learnt the hard way at Oran Park lol
×
×
  • Create New...