Jump to content
SAU Community

Z1 Motorsports Oil Pan Spacer - worth it?


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

After seeing some folks using the Z1 Motorsports trinkets on their vehicles, I did what anyone would do and browse the parts catalogue. I figure if I'm going to order stuff, I may as well grab more than just a couple of bits. :)

So I came across the oil pan spacer (https://www.z1motorsports.com/engine-parts/z1-motorsports/z1-vq-hr-vhr-oil-pan-spacer-p-8184.html) and many in the US claim that it's better for the fact that the oil pickup is less likely to suck in air and with the 937mL of additional oil, the oil temperature decreases to the benefit of longer engine life.

Has anyone installed one of these on their VQ37VHR motor and do you believe it to be worthwhile? If I'm going to have it up on a hoist doing engine and transmission mounts, may as well go the full hog and add this piece in as well, so all thoughts are welcome!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey mate, 

My first thoughts are, if I want cooler oil, I'd install an oil cooler. Preferably with a thermostat unless the vehicle is track only. I don't know how comfortable I'd be extending down to pick up extra capacity, I'd rather go wider. Less chance of bottoming out on something and ripping the sump open. And finally, if there are oil surge issues from oil running away from the pick up, adding an extra liter of oil probably isn't going to help a great deal. You really want gates/baffles/one-way trap doors around the pick up that keeps oil there during hard cornering. Have a look at this as an example of what I'm talking about https://justjap.com/engine/oil-control/sumps-baffle-kits/tomei-sump-baffle-kit-nissan-rb26.html

I think your money could be better spent elsewhere. I'd recommend oil temp / oil pressure  sensors/gauges, that way you can see if you even have an issue with oil temps or oil surge. 

But having said all this, if your car never sees the track you probably don't need any of this.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Figured as much. I always err on the side of "I don't need this unless someone convinces me otherwise."

Can't say I've ever really been worried with our vehicles. I think the JDM ones get a little more love than the USDM variants anyway. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe I used the wrong sandwich plate as well. Used one piece instead of two piece.  
    • Y'know what, after reading a topic on a 360kw build using a nistune (who ended up going LINK), im now considering a LINK over a nistune. The engine protection alone would probably be worth it. And id like to learn to tune so would be nice to have that safe guard. Which means i probably wont need a boost controller then, or the R35 MAF.  Becoming a bit of a blog now but oh wells. As mentioned previously, the goal is around 300kw, for a daily driver. Will be looking at fitting a highflow turbo or similar (something that doesnt require downpipes, manifolds etc to be changed out) when the current stock gives out or the money for it is there. 
    • Thanks guys. Are you meant to tighten the converter bolts through the starter motor hole? Think my plate between gearbox and engine is one piece. Im heading up there tomorrow.
    • Picked my tailshaft up yesterday arv!! Test fit it and because they've gone to a ford centre bearing and CV I had to modify the mounting bracket a little bit. 5mm of each side and she went up into position and fits well. It has a 1350 uni and flange on the gearbox end so it should be plenty strong!  Got stuck in this morning and started on the wiring mess. Cut out all the wires not required that go to the body connector and cut the engine harness out. Need to go through and work out which ones I need to keep and rewire into the new ecu. Should save a small amount of weight as well. I'd love to get in and rip the dash and everything out to completely remove wiring but cbf.  Next up was the power harness for alternator, starter etc. It has a few connectors from factory that run out of it. Cut it all apart and removed what was no longer required and put some new corro and taped it all back up and bolted it all back into place.  After that I worked out where I can mount the new flex sensor. Found a couple of factory bolt holes and drilled a new hole on the bracket to suit. Need to go get a few fittings and adapters tomorrow so I can keep going.   
    • Nah, im after the more newer looking, one with the OLED display
×
×
  • Create New...