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Nissan Silvia S15 Idle problems and stalling (again)


silviaz
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So after what the mechanic did it made a world of difference and worked much better. But still sorta got the same issue which is that it stalls when going uphill. also the car idles bad the tachometer moves very slightly up and down here are videos from after what i did to try fix it and seems to be a bit better. The idle also sounds better with the aircon on. Here is what I've done so far to try fix it:

 

* New spark plugs from 2 months ago

* Changed oil 2 times (first one for testing and it went black quite fast but now got brand new Penrite 10w-50 I think it is + filter)

* Cleaned IACV Valve was quite dirty but don't know how much it is (gasket is broken but used some gasket filler no leaks, might replace gasket later)

* Cleaned throttle body was filthy as well but didn't originally fix problem

*  New radiator coolant

* Cleaned pcv valve was dirty to but did rattle before cleaning and don't think it made much difference

* Unplugged air flow sensor while car is on and it turned off so that indicates to me the sensor is good

Don't know what it could be, don't think it's the coil packs, haven't checked oxygen sensor. What do you guys reckon it is? Maybe pressure plate? Don't think it's the head gasket. I wanna try work on some stuff until he arrives see if I can fix the problem in the mean time.

 

This first one is with air con on the idle sounds better and second one is with aircon off and idle sounds worse

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14 minutes ago, silviaz said:

I dont think this car has a blow off valve? 

Don't make the mistake of thinking that all BOVs are externally venting wank noise makers. The Nissan turbos had recirculating BOVs, although it is technically more correct to call them a compressor bypass valve.

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5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Don't make the mistake of thinking that all BOVs are externally venting wank noise makers. The Nissan turbos had recirculating BOVs, although it is technically more correct to call them a compressor bypass valve.

Ah ok looks like i need to take apart the turbo according to that diagram?

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35 minutes ago, silviaz said:

Ah ok looks like i need to take apart the turbo according to that diagram?

Not sure why you would say that. To pressure test the inlet tract you should probably google up a guide - it has been discussed here bazzillions of times. You basically just need to access the inlet of the turbo (and some bits and pieces).

The diagram you were shown, shows all the pipe and shit that could participate in a vacuum/boost leak. I've circled the BOV for you

image.png.aafbfdec9c55a8e69528b6560702ec96.png

cheers

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50 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Not sure why you would say that. To pressure test the inlet tract you should probably google up a guide - it has been discussed here bazzillions of times. You basically just need to access the inlet of the turbo (and some bits and pieces).

The diagram you were shown, shows all the pipe and shit that could participate in a vacuum/boost leak. I've circled the BOV for you

image.png.aafbfdec9c55a8e69528b6560702ec96.png

cheers

My bad it looked like i needed to looking at the diagram lol

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On 1/15/2020 at 5:26 PM, GTSBoy said:

Not sure why you would say that. To pressure test the inlet tract you should probably google up a guide - it has been discussed here bazzillions of times. You basically just need to access the inlet of the turbo (and some bits and pieces).

The diagram you were shown, shows all the pipe and shit that could participate in a vacuum/boost leak. I've circled the BOV for you

image.png.aafbfdec9c55a8e69528b6560702ec96.png

cheers

Fixed it. Timing was out by one tooth

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