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On 3/7/2020 at 5:15 AM, Dil-Dog said:

I enjoy my Mishimotor Radiator with the stock Clutch fan and GKtech fan blade... but what ever you decide to do though, do NOT buy the mishimoto electric fan. its garbage and is better off meant to cool a computer or somthing.

My advice also.  Mishimoto electric fan seems designed for Antartica

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Update;

Purchased a Garret GTX3582R 0.82 T4 last week from Supercheap (they had 30% off sale for $2350). I made up my mind and ill be buying Koyorad Radiator using the stock fan and shroud. 

As I do more research, I come up with a lot more questions lol. 

Q1: Currently, I am looking at getting the sump extension but if I can't, is it worth me buying TOMEI POWERD Oil Pan Baffle Plate? Was wondering if that would help me by any chance. 

Q2: Is it worth selling the Power FC and buying Haltech Plug in ECU to run flexfuel? As mentioned previously, my power goals are at least 550-600hp atw (p.s this will be a weekend cruiser not a track car)

Q3: Anything else I should consider for a "reliable" 550hp? 

Thanks guys 

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On 3/23/2020 at 8:26 PM, oktaytrz said:

Update;

Purchased a Garret GTX3582R 0.82 T4 last week from Supercheap (they had 30% off sale for $2350). I made up my mind and ill be buying Koyorad Radiator using the stock fan and shroud. 

As I do more research, I come up with a lot more questions lol. 

Q1: Currently, I am looking at getting the sump extension but if I can't, is it worth me buying TOMEI POWERD Oil Pan Baffle Plate? Was wondering if that would help me by any chance. 

Q2: Is it worth selling the Power FC and buying Haltech Plug in ECU to run flexfuel? As mentioned previously, my power goals are at least 550-600hp atw (p.s this will be a weekend cruiser not a track car)

Q3: Anything else I should consider for a "reliable" 550hp? 

Thanks guys 

Power FC is not a limitation on power depends on how keen you are to have flex fuel. Plus its not an engine out job if you change your mind later.

Reliability is mainly down to a good build followed by a good tune.

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Don’t waste your money on a tomei baffle, nite the bullet and get an extended sump with trap doors and etc

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On ‎3‎/‎23‎/‎2020 at 3:26 PM, oktaytrz said:

Update;

Purchased a Garret GTX3582R 0.82 T4 last week from Supercheap (they had 30% off sale for $2350). I made up my mind and ill be buying Koyorad Radiator using the stock fan and shroud. 

As I do more research, I come up with a lot more questions lol. 

Q1: Currently, I am looking at getting the sump extension but if I can't, is it worth me buying TOMEI POWERD Oil Pan Baffle Plate? Was wondering if that would help me by any chance. 

Q2: Is it worth selling the Power FC and buying Haltech Plug in ECU to run flexfuel? As mentioned previously, my power goals are at least 550-600hp atw (p.s this will be a weekend cruiser not a track car)

Q3: Anything else I should consider for a "reliable" 550hp? 

Thanks guys 

1. In the absence of a larger capacity sump the Tomei baffle is worth having.  I ran one on the track for years whilst over filling the sump.

2. Well your set up will either be more suited to E85 or petrol. So if you need to run both then yes you need something other than a power FC.  Its much easier to find hp with E85. There are now much better ecus than APexi's 1990 version.

3. Just spend alot of time on ring selection, block preparation/blowby and work out how you are going to run the thing in from the moment it starts up.  Oh and no one has said dont waste your money on that intercooler.  Also valve springs have you got some?  Head gasket? 

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13 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Power FC is not a limitation on power depends on how keen you are to have flex fuel. Plus its not an engine out job if you change your mind later.

Reliability is mainly down to a good build followed by a good tune.

Thank you for your comment! Its always better to have flefuel option I guess. Good point I guess I can swap the ecu later on, but ill make sure the fuel system is e85 compatible. 

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7 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Don’t waste your money on a tomei baffle, nite the bullet and get an extended sump with trap doors and etc

Hard decision! still thinking about it. I won't be taking my car to tracks but as I said it is only for reliability purposes. 

 

1 hour ago, djr81 said:

1. In the absence of a larger capacity sump the Tomei baffle is worth having.  I ran one on the track for years whilst over filling the sump.

2. Well your set up will either be more suited to E85 or petrol. So if you need to run both then yes you need something other than a power FC.  Its much easier to find hp with E85. There are now much better ecus than APexi's 1990 version.

3. Just spend alot of time on ring selection, block preparation/blowby and work out how you are going to run the thing in from the moment it starts up.  Oh and no one has said dont waste your money on that intercooler.  Also valve springs have you got some?  Head gasket? 

Engine work was done before I purchased the car but the engine never went in the car as the previous owner did not have the funds to complete the build. Headgasket, valve springs etc are all upgraded.  I have both stock and aftermarket (105mm thick) intercoolers. Which one would you recommend? 

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Fitting the 105mm intercooler is not necessarily straight forward from memory you have to cut/trim/remove things.  Dont know what the stocker runs out at  but its a decent number.

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34 minutes ago, oktaytrz said:

Hard decision! still thinking about it. I won't be taking my car to tracks but as I said it is only for reliability purposes. 

I don’t take mine to the track either and while accelerating in a straight line with the stock sump with a tomei baffle it kept tripping the engine protection due to oil surge

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http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/pump-gear-billet-chromoly-steel-reimax-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-with-pump-77mm-gear-p-1981.html

ordered from this direct link parts came quick and was recommended by others on this site that know there stuff...motor out job wasn't that bad. cheers

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sorry for double post but ive ordered all my higher end parts from kudos their a great parts source for stuff like this(engine components, suspension, etc.) cheers mate definitely a good upgrade for your rb hoping you have extended crank collar as well?

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1 hour ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

sorry for double post but ive ordered all my higher end parts from kudos their a great parts source for stuff like this(engine components, suspension, etc.) cheers mate definitely a good upgrade for your rb hoping you have extended crank collar as well?

Purchased Reimax N1 Oil Pump gears (RhdJapan) and Nitto Crank Collar (Goleby Parts) today. 

Also will buy full gasket kits for the intake manifold, rocker covers etc. from (Kudos).

Kudos also quoted me $1290 for a CRG T4 High Mount Manifold with 50mm External Gate Port. Still unsure whether I should get 6Boost or CRG. any thoughts?  

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Another Question.. 

In order to fit Nitto Crank Collar, do I have to get the N1 oil pump drive machined to fit? 

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1 hour ago, oktaytrz said:

Another Question.. 

In order to fit Nitto Crank Collar, do I have to get the N1 oil pump drive machined to fit? 

Not as far as I know.

Re ex manifold, I'm going with 6boost, who seem to be pretty deceent. 

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3 hours ago, oktaytrz said:

Another Question.. 

In order to fit Nitto Crank Collar, do I have to get the N1 oil pump drive machined to fit? 

No you have to get the crank machined to take the collar...pump will fit. And buy the cheapest crank collar you can find...its a piece of steel put through a CNC lathe - not rocket science.

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you definitely need to machine it yup..6 boost top mounts are the only manifolds you see in my area and are total bulletproof manifolds that never crack and have a ton of different flange options. 1200 Canadian dollars cant beat it mate.

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On 06/03/2020 at 8:36 PM, MoMnDadGTR said:

I literally just went through this with my gtr.  The billet gears are super easy to install. I just used my stock oil pump because of sump issues etc.  I was getting all ready to have an extended nose collar machined on,  to find out that I already had extended nose. 93 and later gtrs all have the extended collar already. I would definitely recommend changing the gears out on the pump as its not the power that destroys them its the rpm. and yeah extended collar forsure if you want reliability. 

Mine is a 1993 R32 GTR so I'm guessing I don't have to do anything then? (even though I've purchased nitto crank collar lol)

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38 minutes ago, oktaytrz said:

Mine is a 1993 R32 GTR so I'm guessing I don't have to do anything then? (even though I've purchased nitto crank collar lol)

That's correct unless someone has put an earlier crank in it...

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Here’s a picture I managed to get today from my mechanics shop. 
is it possible to tell if this is a extended crank collar?

A5F21B0D-E435-4B49-B6B5-69FC5A6E69B6.jpeg

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