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Stateside lurker


scumlort
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Hello all, as mentioned in the title i'm from the United States. I've been working on this headache of an s-chassis for 4 years now and I finally decided to become a member of this forum today. I've come here to find information countless times and with the help of the search bar I typically find the answer i'm looking for. My s14 is equipped with a series 2 RB25 and matching gearbox out of an R33. It is a generic stock turbo setup with a front facing intake plenum and front mount intercooler. 13psi and a tune has allowed me to cross the 300hp threshold despite the stock injectors and 45v2 turbo with the fragile impeller wheel.

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43984598_137849090516840_4133529387026229663_n.jpg

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here's a year old picture of my engine bay. The simple harness tuck under intake and fmic setup make it appear tidy but its really a bit messy for my liking. PCV blocked off and rocker covers routed to an oil catch can that dumps to atmosphere. To answer your question @Nouveua_Poor I live in Charlotte, but if you still lived here you would very rarely see this car on the road as it spends most of it's life in a storage unit. I have a tendency of eating steering racks and it's taking away from seat time?

rb25.jpg

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    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
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