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Hi Guy's,

Looks like the country is going into lock down (corona virus) so planning to do a major oil change on my stock R32 GT-R. Looking at using

Motul ATF-1A for power steering, any good??

Motul 8100 X-Power for Engine Oil

Motul Dot 3&4 for brake and clutch fluid

Red line Heavy Shockproof for Gearbox

Diff oils??? need help

any advice would be appreciated on the list above
 

Thx Bob

 

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1 hour ago, borka1975 said:

Motul ATF-1A for power steering, any good??

Anything will do.

1 hour ago, borka1975 said:

Motul 8100 X-Power for Engine Oil

It's fine, along wih about 300 other options.

 

1 hour ago, borka1975 said:

Motul Dot 3&4 for brake and clutch fluid

Anything will do here too.

 

1 hour ago, borka1975 said:

Red line Heavy Shockproof for Gearbox

Only if the gearbox needs help shifting. Do not use it in a healthy box.

1 hour ago, borka1975 said:

Diff oils???

Anything will do here too. Just so long as it is for LSDs.

  • Haha 1

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As GTSboy said really apart from diffs. I really disagree with the light oils on diffs like the 75w -85 or 75w-90 stuff Nissan recommends, and absolutely stick with a GL-4 for the stock synchro box if you want to shift properly. Easy off the shelf solutions are Castrol Syntrans GL-4 75w-85 for box and Syntrax 80w-140 in both diffs, your crown wheel and pinions will last almost forever. Absolute Best in diffs is pretty much the Motul Comp gear 75w-140 for big power.

Also you didn't mention transfer case, pretty hard to be Castrol Transmax Z in that.

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Million threads on it but Rotella t6 40 weight, is a great option for engine oil and is not super expensive.  And get the motul comp gear 75w140 fricken amazing shit your diffs will never be so happy. 

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Rotella T6 is not recommended for high RPM engines due to the lack of anti-foaming additives. It works great on low RPM engines like diesels and low RPM gas engines like LS engines but the RBs rev high and tend to create a lot of oily air.

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On 26/03/2020 at 3:45 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Rotella T6 is not recommended for high RPM engines due to the lack of anti-foaming additives. It works great on low RPM engines like diesels and low RPM gas engines like LS engines but the RBs rev high and tend to create a lot of oily air.

im gunna go ahead and say this is a load of malarkey mate....rotella t6 absolutely tried and tested I have this oil in over 15 units on my fleet as well as my integra type r, gtr, and gts. not to mention 2 1000hp supras in the area running t6. All cars that hit and see over 7500rpm daily.   never once have I ever seen "oily air"  or had any oil failures in anyway.  ive had good luck with motul but for what its worth the t6 is better bang for buck. redline oil caused my rb26 to burn oil and smell like fuel in oil, instantly changed back to t6 and my motor was happier than a pig in shit(never see oil in my turbo pipes either). come on don't add comments that aren't true at all its quite misleading. forget rpm its an oil that withstands higher compressions rates than any of our rb's. I change my oil every 2000km in the R and have never seen foamy or bubbly oil once and ive dropped it cold, mild, warm, hot, and screaming hot. Also, I check my oil often the dipstick is always thickly coated with t6 never seeing any bubbles or "airy foam"....cheers

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its one thing to sift through a ton of info on these forums and believe everything you read, and its another to try, test, review, and find out what actually works for you and your cars.    

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On 3/27/2020 at 12:58 AM, MoMnDadGTR said:

Million threads on it but Rotella t6 40 weight, is a great option for engine oil and is not super expensive.  And get the motul comp gear 75w140 fricken amazing shit your diffs will never be so happy. 

Another vote for the comp 75W140 diff oil although if you have a super track car for a few extra dollars you can get the Nismo comp gear 75W140 diff oil (also made by Motul to a slightly higher spec). Expensive stuff but you only need a couple of litres.

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On 3/29/2020 at 3:53 AM, MoMnDadGTR said:

im gunna go ahead and say this is a load of malarkey mate....rotella t6 absolutely tried and tested I have this oil in over 15 units on my fleet as well as my integra type r, gtr, and gts. not to mention 2 1000hp supras in the area running t6. All cars that hit and see over 7500rpm daily.   never once have I ever seen "oily air"  or had any oil failures in anyway.  ive had good luck with motul but for what its worth the t6 is better bang for buck. redline oil caused my rb26 to burn oil and smell like fuel in oil, instantly changed back to t6 and my motor was happier than a pig in shit(never see oil in my turbo pipes either). come on don't add comments that aren't true at all its quite misleading. forget rpm its an oil that withstands higher compressions rates than any of our rb's. I change my oil every 2000km in the R and have never seen foamy or bubbly oil once and ive dropped it cold, mild, warm, hot, and screaming hot. Also, I check my oil often the dipstick is always thickly coated with t6 never seeing any bubbles or "airy foam"....cheers

Foaming is created in dynamic conditions, you usually need high RPM to cause it. Low RPM conditions it shouldn't happen. Unless you have a viewing port in the crankcase you wouldn't know.

Personally I'm not a tribologist and I don't feel like gambling an engine on oil selection. There is a Rotella T6 that is dual rated. But I don't think it's wise to run an engine oil that is not rated for gasoline engines or only has bare minimum certs. Especially when you can find a lot of different oils that meet whatever spec you're looking for for any given engine. Maybe a dedicated diesel engine oil works great for you but it seems unwise to recommend that in general.

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this was only my 2 cents and also said motul 15w40 has my vote all day for the ballers. I was recommended t6 by a lot of guys on here that know a hell of a lot more than I do on this topic. not to mention running way more power than myself with crazy race setups.  if someone has used t6 with a bad review I would honestly like to see it. over 150,000 hard km between the 3 cars(probably more) all still on original engines and only one that has oil usage is the type r integra, go figure its a stock bottom end b18c5 that gets raped daily I hope it burns a bit. I wont recommend anything to anyone just saying what has worked for 100's of guys out there without issues. the only time ive ever seen this foaming your talking about is on diesel light plants that run 24/7 wide open in plus 40 conditions that get stopped for an oil change every 4 weeks....this tends to cause foaming yup I guess....(2500rpm low revving engine running spec t6 oil still foaming like crazy mate.)  foaming happens when an engine is being raped without proper cooling...add an oil cooler like every rb should have. t6 oil has lots of cleaning agencies in it you just need to change it more often if your worried...id take my rb26 to 7500km on t6 she loves it.

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The whole argument on Rotella is probably a waste of time anyway, if we work on the likely assumption that the OP is in Australia. It's not sold here, AFAIK.

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It is a pretty funny argument though , good job boys. 
one based on actual experience

 the other on theory. Who will win?

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It's called Shell Rimula over here

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2 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

this was only my 2 cents and also said motul 15w40 has my vote all day for the ballers. I was recommended t6 by a lot of guys on here that know a hell of a lot more than I do on this topic. not to mention running way more power than myself with crazy race setups.  if someone has used t6 with a bad review I would honestly like to see it. over 150,000 hard km between the 3 cars(probably more) all still on original engines and only one that has oil usage is the type r integra, go figure its a stock bottom end b18c5 that gets raped daily I hope it burns a bit. I wont recommend anything to anyone just saying what has worked for 100's of guys out there without issues. the only time ive ever seen this foaming your talking about is on diesel light plants that run 24/7 wide open in plus 40 conditions that get stopped for an oil change every 4 weeks....this tends to cause foaming yup I guess....(2500rpm low revving engine running spec t6 oil still foaming like crazy mate.)  foaming happens when an engine is being raped without proper cooling...add an oil cooler like every rb should have. t6 oil has lots of cleaning agencies in it you just need to change it more often if your worried...id take my rb26 to 7500km on t6 she loves it.

Foaming in gasoline engines occurs when you do something like hard cornering and oil sloshes up the sides of the crankcase and gets whipped up by the crankshaft. Or the piston squirters in the OEM and Tomei RB26 pistons that cause oil to fall onto the crank that gets whipped up. Do this at 8000+ RPM and you will create some foam. Or overfill and the crank will start whipping up oil as soon as you turn the starter.

I'm always super, super skeptical of oil discussions because it's pretty much cargo cult stuff or straight up pyramid schemes in the case of Amsoil. But there is this post: 1764461059_ScreenShot2020-03-30at9_42_36PM.png.05d6a9c6b8112cca12ff1e391b8ce0a0.png

 

Whether there's any truth to this post is hard to say, but the source is here: 

 

Personally nothing I run is ever going to need more than whatever full synthetic is 5 USD/quart online or at a local store. I would probably be just fine with Rotella T6. But I would be very cautious of making that recommendation to all people for all things. 

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5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The whole argument on Rotella is probably a waste of time anyway, if we work on the likely assumption that the OP is in Australia. It's not sold here, AFAIK.

I'm located in Oz

 

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14 hours ago, borka1975 said:

I'm located in Oz

 

Motul 8100 should be good. If you're going full race the 300V stuff is supposedly better but the change interval is something like 2000 miles.

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