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MLR's Bogan cruise ship


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1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

That is a great way to empty a catch can. A really good way. Now I want a tap on mine as I too have a fitting on the bottom... lol

 

I actually thought back to my old 25/30 last night when I was thinking about it, my old RB had a -10 or -12 fitting on the bottom of the can, it was VTA and the line went back to the sump because.......if it didn't have a return to the sump, the sump would not have had any oil....

That thing had drilled returns in the head, and a head to sump "drain/vent" line, and oil restrictors, and a regulator on the Tomei oil pump, and a baffled high volume sump, basically every mod in the "oil control thread" apart from the drain back, first outing filled the 2 ltr can and spewed oil out the vent, onto the front right tyre which made me have an interesting excursion into the infield at Wakefield park.

Once the fire hose size return line was added all was well.

Luckly the engine held about 8 litres of oil and I didn't lose oil pressure.

LOL, #RBLIFE

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8 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Consider a transmission cooler (and fan, when idling.. especially as a daily!) and/or transmission cooler gauge. I was surprised as to how warm it all got when idling away.

Yeah,trans cooler is going in as well.

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Bike just got picked up to get some new tyres and new steering head bearings installed.

The OEM head bearings developed a small knock when grabbing a hand full of front brake, I could have just pulled apart and put back together again and hoped for the best, but, for the small cost of new bearings it was a no brainer.

Plus as the bike was getting new tyres, I pulled the lazy card and got the shop to do it.

And with the car going in tomorrow, my bike and car should be ready for some cruising around over my leave period, I start leave this Friday, and don't go back till 18 Jan 21.

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So, my alternator made a awesome smoke show this arvo.

I've got a new one from repco, but, I'm still at work and don't finish till 2200, I need to get this swapped tonight so I can drop the car of tomorrow for the converter.

Hopefully it is a 15 minute job, I hope so anyway because I'm buggered and want to fall asleep now.....f**king last minute.com shit.....

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As for my 15 minute job of swapping out my alternator, yeah nah.....I'm pulling the pin for tonight, what a PITA

It seems that my plans for my car tomorrow has changed

Farkkkkk

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What a cluster fark

I did by the book, but, because auto there was just not enough room to get it up past the oem trans cooler hard lines, so, the PS pump needed to come out, which was easy and how I should have attacked it from the start.

Now to clean up and put it back together, hopefully it still works......🤪

20201111_093511.jpg

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Private road testing....gave it a little pedal to see how it hooked with the 245/45 17 RE003 and with the aid of 75 litres of fuel in the tank

From a dead stop, in D, trac off, "not" in sports mode (because I forgot to hit the button) it just "spun" up through the gears, definitely needs more positive camber, I'm missing a big chunk of traction.

I have adjustable camber bushings all ready to go, which are a PITA to install, not sure if it will give me what I want though, which is 0° camber, currently I think I'm at -1.0° IIRC.

Meh, fingers crossed 

I need to get this sorted before I kill a set of drag radials

In other news it shifts real nice and doesn't change direction much during the shifts

So far so good

 

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On 11/14/2020 at 1:06 PM, mlr said:

I need to get this sorted before I kill a set of drag radials

There is no hooking with any road tyre.
This is what drag radials are for. Don't stress.

ANY road tyre will spin up with a launch of anything over ... 1800rpm...

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4 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

There is no hooking with any road tyre.
This is what drag radials are for. Don't stress.

ANY road tyre will spin up with a launch of anything over ... 1800rpm...

That photo was where it was peeling out of second into third

The pic was more of a reference of how much "face" of the tyre was making contact with the road, as it is, with the current camber, I'm missing a heap of tyre on the outside edges, yes it's a street tyre but it is still sacrificing grip

I wore out the inside edge out of a set of M/T ET steet drag radials on my old skyline from running to much camber, when I zero'd the rear camber the skyline hooked up much better, wore flat, and improved my 60' time by a fair whack, that did go from around -2.0° to 0° though

A rough guestimation is if I can zero the camber I can get maybe 30mm more contact patch per tyre, that has got to help my 60'

Plus the cruise ship doesn't really need any camber at the back, the big fat Bessie isn't ever going to be a car to take fast corners, more a big fat comfortable cruise ship that eats highway miles and lays maaaaad skids

For what I want the car to do, my plan is to just give it a good set up for hard launches on drag radials but still have it compliant and safe for street tyres

In saying this I'm not even sure if my adjustable camber bushings are going to give me any more adjustment than the "camber correction" bushings that are in it now, fingers crossed

 

AND........GO

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Compulsive shopper........I said I would never wrap exhaust headers, ever again, but did  then swore I would never again, and then did, the absolute pain in the arse wrapping headers is may have finally sunk in.

I've never used this Thermo-Tec blanket stuff personally but I've seen it used and it seems to work a treat, and holds up well

Not as groovy looking as wrap, but, wrap is the devil to install, this is easy to install, it and should knock out enough under bonnet temps to be worth the $135 it cost

1424292229__1.jpeg.jpg.331fed844993fe4a092ccee8fdd5b832.jpg

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6 hours ago, mlr said:

Compulsive shopper........I said I would never wrap exhaust headers, ever again, but did  then swore I would never again, and then did, the absolute pain in the arse wrapping headers is may have finally sunk in.

I've never used this Thermo-Tec blanket stuff personally but I've seen it used and it seems to work a treat, and holds up well

Not as groovy looking as wrap, but, wrap is the devil to install, this is easy to install, it and should knock out enough under bonnet temps to be worth the $135 it cost

1424292229__1.jpeg.jpg.331fed844993fe4a092ccee8fdd5b832.jpg

I have struggled with heat in mine, both cabin and in engine bay (like with 0.0% airflow...)
I am quite keen to know how this works, I could actually see myself buying something like this too. I just spent $2500 on sound deadening/heat shielding inside the car and ye I need more.

Does look a bit dinky but everyone looks a bit suprised that I didn't coat/wrap my headers for pretty much the same reason you didn't want to do yours lol.

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