MLR's Bogan cruise ship

[The Bogan]

Motivation 

 

[The Bogan]

Bullet got back to me with a HTV1900 kit available, 4-6 weeks wait though

Torque would be slightly over my threshold, but, at least it is more manageable than the HTV2300

I will have a chat to a shop tomorrow, Autotech Engineering, and see what they say 

I've spoken to a few other local joints, AE seem to understand I'm not after big numbers so if I do go for gold I will most likely use them, and both Bullet and Harrop recommend them 

Currently the price for drive in drive out is a hares dick under $15k

Lots of money to piss away on whooshy noises

LOL

And I'm currently trying to teach the kids to be responsible with their money

I'm an excellent role model......of what not to do

[robbo_rb180]

stop pussy footing around and go full bogan 

https://www.aussiespeedshop.com/product/ls-1-gm-6v71-supercharger-kit-cathedral-port/

or maybe get into a job that lets you enjoy the noises. This was fun to rip around in at summernats a few years ago now.

[The Bogan]

Farkit

2300 it is

Going for a oversize pulley to reduce the boost a bit

Now for the waiting game

[Kinkstaah]

On 2/1/2021 at 8:48 PM, mlr said:

Bullet got back to me with a HTV1900 kit available, 4-6 weeks wait though

Torque would be slightly over my threshold, but, at least it is more manageable than the HTV2300

I will have a chat to a shop tomorrow, Autotech Engineering, and see what they say 

I've spoken to a few other local joints, AE seem to understand I'm not after big numbers so if I do go for gold I will most likely use them, and both Bullet and Harrop recommend them 

Currently the price for drive in drive out is a hares dick under $15k

Lots of money to piss away on whooshy noises

LOL

And I'm currently trying to teach the kids to be responsible with their money

I'm an excellent role model......of what not to do

You know you can buy a crate built motor that makes 350kw for less than that, yeah? And it's N/A?

[The Bogan]

1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

You know you can buy a crate built motor that makes 350kw for less than that, yeah? And it's N/A?

Yeah, but then there's the install, and all the other stuff

Plus for 350kw it needs a fairly big cam, which screws drivablity and fuel economy, this would also require a larger stall, and stuff 

At one stage I was looking at a crate LSA with a gearbox for $24k, then I would need to get it in and running > https://www.holmart.com.au/holden-hsv-vf-gts-lsa-430kw-6.2l-crate-engine-6l90

I decided this was the easiest option to get some semi reliable power whilst retaining drivablity and some economy, plus sweet whossy noises

I'm sure that someone with garage space and more mechanical aptitude could have done it for less, but meh, I just pay cash 

[Kinkstaah]

Easier to just put a motor in? 

https://www.pavtek.com.au/index.php/ls1-gen-iii-packages-mainmenu-21/235-ls1-383-efi-long-engine-with-cnc-heads-562-hp

383 means less cam, but you have an auto anyway. Why not 6.3L? No intake problems. Save yourself a few thousand too.
Not the only places that will build up a motor too. Quite a few joints around that will just supply you with a built ready to go LS1 with heads/cam/stroker that you can throw in and away you go.

Def cheaper than doing it incrementally with cam, then heads, then intake, or boost etc.

Boost is always going to be less reliable. And you have things like joiners, belt, IAT problems, fitment issues and casual illegal extra items in the engine bay.

I've pretty much sworn off ever going boost for those reasons. That said... pretty different application!

[r32-25t]

As he said it will end up with a pretty decent sized cam to make those number and from experience they drive like shit 

[The Bogan]

My very stylish and excellent quality under bonnet noise mat thong turned up

Fitted straight over the car builder foam stuff

My only concern now is will the blower fit, or will this stuff need no be recessed?

Before

After

[Kinkstaah]

That is very nice indeed. I hope it doesn't need to be removed. That would be sucky.

[The Bogan]

24 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

That is very nice indeed. I hope it doesn't need to be removed. That would be sucky.

I'm hoping it doesn't, we will see in a couple of weeks when the blower goes on

If it does I'll trim it nice and maybe cover the cut edges with pinch weld or something

I've seen a few Harrops that fit with the OEM liner stuff, I've also seen a few where the liner has been hitting the front edge of the blower

I've got my fingers crossed 

[The Bogan]

Removed the OTR intake and replaced it with a "slightly modified" OEM airbox, and a new plastic radiator cover, used some 3.5" x 100mm stainless pipe to fill in for the MAF

I didn't like how the OTR blocked half of my radiator and sat hard up against the aircon condenser

 

[Kinkstaah]

Another "Because I had issues" 

Do you have a means of logging your IAT after doing that? Heatsoak on the sensor is a big problem with OTR's, yet they also add power.

In my application it wasn't really an option and I had to buy a faster reacting IAT sensor from the USA as the GM one takes minutes to cool down to the air temp it's actually sensing.

[The Bogan]

LOL, yeah, I get bored and look for things to do

The sensor is back in it's OEM position, which is in a much better spot than where the OTR had it

I'm not really fussed on any additional power the OTR gives, I've opened up the bottom section of the OEM radiator and it has clean air from behind the grill

I was watching a LS getting tuned with a OEM airbox with typical "mods" to mine and a HTV2300, IIRC it was over 400kw, and at around 12psi, it won't be best practice, but it will be fine, I've gone for a larger pulley, so even less boost

If the car makes around 350kw with a fat tune I'll be happy

[Ben C34]

Get them to fit a throttle stop at the same time as the blower goes on.

[The Bogan]

2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Get them to fit a throttle stop at the same time as the blower goes on.

I'm hoping my right foot has some common sense 

Plus I believe I'll be making stuff breaking torque well before I get anywhere near full throttle 

The tuner, Spiro, knows I want some form of reliability tuned into it, so, with a big, low psi pulley, and some crafty tuning, both with the fuel and the transmission, I'm just going to fill the transmission with some hopes and dreams and see what happens

[Kinkstaah]

The thing is, the air temp sensor gets hot in traffic. Upwards of 70C. It took a good 15-20 minutes of highway cruising (!) to get it back down to about 35C. This is on a 25C day.

The stock ECU absolutely will pull fuel, timing, and knock. The air actually entering the engine is not 70C. Map sensored cars really soak bad, at least they think they are soaking bad.

v8 cars are way easier to manage traction that turbo cars. You won't need a throttle stop. I need way less traction control intervention with the v8 than I ever did in any of the turbo setups.

[The Bogan]

33 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

The thing is, the air temp sensor gets hot in traffic. Upwards of 70C. It took a good 15-20 minutes of highway cruising (!) to get it back down to about 35C. This is on a 25C day.

The stock ECU absolutely will pull fuel, timing, and knock. The air actually entering the engine is not 70C. Map sensored cars really soak bad, at least they think they are soaking bad.

v8 cars are way easier to manage traction that turbo cars. You won't need a throttle stop. I need way less traction control intervention with the v8 than I ever did in any of the turbo setups.

I'll look into the OEM AIT sensor more

As for air temps post the blower, I "assume" I will not be taxing the 2300 running low boost, I "assume",  hence, my actual intake temp should be well within an acceptable range, people run alot more boost on these than I will be, and the internal air to water coolers "seem" to keep up

The standard 85mm pulley runs around 10-12 psi, a smaller, optional 80mm pulley runs around 13-15 psi, and the smallest available, a 75mm pulley, runs around 16-18 psi, I'm going to have on hand the biggest pulley available, 90mm, in case it is required, to drop another 3 psi, going off rule of thumb.....all things being equal it is about a 3 psi variance for ever 5mm

Warranty gets voided when the pulleys are under 75mm, or over 18,000 rpm, I won't be running anywhere near that

Running the big pulley also extends belt life, "apparently"

I will keep a spare belt anyway, and 17mm??? spanner in the glovebox in case of a busted belt

But honestly, this is the tuners bread and butter, this guy has fitted a heap of these kits, I'm sure he will use all of his black magic tuning skills to sort me out

I have no idea IRT of the dark art of tuning

Disclaimer: Yes, I am using alot of assumptions and a few apparently(s)

My saving grace, and peice of mind, is people are pushing these things "alot" more than I will be

Mate, in the end I will cross my fingers, roll the dice, and hope for the best

Time will tell

This will also tick off owning a supercharged car off my bucket list

 

[The Bogan]

New front wheel bearing hubs are on the way

Another case of doing stuff for the sake of wanting to do stuff, not because I need to

Meh, they are most likely the original 18 year old bearings

I shall rationalise it as preventative maintenance 

[The Bogan]

The old window tint was a bit worse for wear and I was umming and arring about replacing it, or at least, removing it

After ringing around to see how much it would cost for a tint joint to remove it........I went onto ebay and got overnight parts from....China

With the $100 steamer it took about 1.5hrs from the start to the finish

No glue, no residue, after pealing it of all it needed was some windex

100x easier and cleaner than using a heat gun