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mlr

MLR's Bogan cruise ship


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In other news, I'm looking at some new cats, the current 100 cell cats are of questionable quality and don't really do much, the Mrs has made note if the "stink" from the exhaust

I love the stink, but, as long as I keep her relatively happy with the noises and smells the car makes I'm pretty much free to "mod away"

Plus if I was ever pulled over and sent to a emissions test I'm not confident it would end well

So.....

I'm looking at some 400 cel euro 5 type (the 2002 vx is euro 3) from Racecraft which are currently at $450 

vtz3_1800x1800.thumb.jpg.3c6faae6bfd73f8809133d1f593a206f.jpg

This is about half the cost of a quote from an exhaust shop that quoted me for 200 cell, which really wouldn't be much better than my current 100 cell

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I was able to buy some 5in body 400 cell cats (x2) which had 3in pipe either side. I can confirm they work and may be cheaper, I want to say they were just under $200 each.

Venom Exhaust Weld in high Flow stainless 3" 76mm 400 cell Cat Catalytic Converter (mrcperformance.com.au)

They do remove smell, because I have 'cat delete pipes' that can be swapped in with vbands.

These delete pipes sit in a box, because.. they do not seem to impact performance at all, and fix the smell, and .. well, the cats make the car sound better lol.

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13 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I was able to buy some 5in body 400 cell cats (x2) which had 3in pipe either side. I can confirm they work and may be cheaper, I want to say they were just under $200 each.

Venom Exhaust Weld in high Flow stainless 3" 76mm 400 cell Cat Catalytic Converter (mrcperformance.com.au)

They do remove smell, because I have 'cat delete pipes' that can be swapped in with vbands.

These delete pipes sit in a box, because.. they do not seem to impact performance at all, and fix the smell, and .. well, the cats make the car sound better lol.

 

Won't pass an emissions test though. Used to have one on my car when it was a street car, but it failed the Euro 3 standards even on E85. Was going to buy a certified Euro 4 cat to replace it but ended up taking the car off the road instead.

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9 minutes ago, Unzipped Composites said:

 

Won't pass an emissions test though. Used to have one on my car when it was a street car, but it failed the Euro 3 standards even on E85. Was going to buy a certified Euro 4 cat to replace it but ended up taking the car off the road instead.

Mine did... for the same year/motor combination that OP has 😛 through the IM240 in NSW which is far and beyond more stringent than the 5 gas test WA does.

The kicker for me was it was the only one I could find that was a 3in 400 cell cat, and its worth mentioning I have two of them, one in each bank, as I have a 2x 3in exhaust into a 3.5in.

... and they are also behind 100 cell cats, which are further up the bank!


Just sayin they do work for the make/model that this thread is relevant for, but I probably would have paid the extra for the racecraft ones, but trying to get information on them other than "Cell" and "Euro" spec was impossible at the time.

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1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

Mine did... for the same year/motor combination that OP has 😛 through the IM240 in NSW which is far and beyond more stringent than the 5 gas test WA does.

The kicker for me was it was the only one I could find that was a 3in 400 cell cat, and its worth mentioning I have two of them, one in each bank, as I have a 2x 3in exhaust into a 3.5in.

... and they are also behind 100 cell cats, which are further up the bank!


Just sayin they do work for the make/model that this thread is relevant for, but I probably would have paid the extra for the racecraft ones, but trying to get information on them other than "Cell" and "Euro" spec was impossible at the time.

 

Fair enough, I stand corrected!

I'll admit, I had never noticed any smells and when on 98 it would take a good few months of driving without washing before any soot developed on the rear bar, so they obviously did something. I had always been content with it until it failed the emissions test, which as you say is only a 5 gas test. My package just needed a different combination I guess.

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It is interesting how the tests are run, my car was well worse on idle instead of driving around, given the WA test is an idle test mileage may vary. My stupid V8 cam was a huge detriment though. (unburned fuel is bad for emissions...)

I would have gone ceramic if I had've seen them prior though, because its probably better than steel ones, otherwise why would every OEM use ceramics instead of steel ones. But now that I'm passed I'm happy they're steel, so who knows, worked out in the end.

Either one will remove the smell though!

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29 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

It is interesting how the tests are run, my car was well worse on idle instead of driving around, given the WA test is an idle test mileage may vary. My stupid V8 cam was a huge detriment though. (unburned fuel is bad for emissions...)

I would have gone ceramic if I had've seen them prior though, because its probably better than steel ones, otherwise why would every OEM use ceramics instead of steel ones. But now that I'm passed I'm happy they're steel, so who knows, worked out in the end.

Either one will remove the smell though!

How did you find the 400 cell in relation to the tune, did it richen it up by much?

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1 minute ago, mlr said:

How did you find the 400 cell in relation to the tune, did it richen it up by much?

This is how I figure it made no difference, closing the varex for example richens up the AFR significantly (12.9 to 11.0) as revs climb for obvious reasons, and about half a point at idle actually. (14.7 to like 14.3ish).

Swapping the cats (plural, I have two) with 2x 3in straight pipes resulted in an 0.0 AFR change at the same road with same conditions, I made a day of it specifically testing this exact thing. And the cats fit better. I wish I had flex joins in my exhaust, vbands are great but... there is 0 compliance with them.

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After a nice ride on the Harley this weekend, I removed the lowered rear shocks

I went from scrapping pegs to scrapping the exhaust, which is not ideal when laying this fat old girl over in a tight corner, the exhaust turns into a solid pivot point

I actually felt the rear tyre lift and lose grip

The OEM rear shocks are back on, not the best performer, but at least I'm back to scrapping pegs and not pivot points

20210615_084250.thumb.jpg.d280b8783f63d0627b7c839a59192cd1.jpg

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In other news, after no email reply from Racecraft, and as they don't have any phone numbers because phones are apparently to hard to answer (well that is what their website says), I got a local exhaust shop to fit the cats.

The fuel/exhaust smell is now gone, which is nice

The ended up costing $650 installed, I'm happy with that as it saved the whole "I hope they fit" senario you go thru when ordering "bolt on" parts

It also gave me the opportunity to inspect the undercarriage and "stuff" when it was up on the hoist, doing that on jack stands is a PITA, after inspecting and shaking the bejubus out of all the arms, linkages and other bits and peices everything was hunky dory, sweet.

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Just purchased a bonnet scoop #becausemadbogan

I just need to find a clean bonnet to hack up

I'll fit it up and get a local joint, Fineline, to respray/color match the bonnet

VT-VX-VK-RETRO-STYLE-SCOOP.-751x1024.jpg

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Water squirter relocation stuff is ebay'd

I need to hit bunnings tomorrow for some cutting wheels for my little grinder, I will be just removing the bonnet material and leaving the frame untouched

Then tape tape and chop chop

I actually also did some wool tuft testing, well, I used survey marking tape, anyways, it seems the "advertised" high pressure zone at the base windscreen isn't really a high pressure zone, the tape pretty much flowed up the windscreen, it wasn't smooth, but it didn't push down into the lower part of the screen, which to me would indicate that it should, "in theory" vent heat when moving

My initial hopes were to remove some heat when the car is sitting stuck in traffic, it actually "may" vent some heat when moving, maybe...meh

This isn't because the car is overheating or any real reason other than another "just because" mod, plus I get to use my grinder

s-l140.jpg.b1fbd6b55b7178f6aa9142a090b3af56.jpgs-l140-1.jpg.2ab5a8e41a8b76f329daf7940b63325c.jpg

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13 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

How's that burn out video coming along? Lol

Give me a break, the car has sticky street tyres, 255 RS4's, and only 950nm of torque at 2500rpm

I'm not sure if that's enough powahs to turn them

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2 hours ago, mlr said:

Give me a break, the car has sticky street tyres, 255 RS4's, and only 950nm of torque at 2500rpm

I'm not sure if that's enough powahs to turn them

Sounds like it's just enough to pull a Mah de Grass float.

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21 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Sounds like it's just enough to pull a Mah de Grass float.

Unfortunately I will not be able to tow your float as I have removed the tow bar

I appreciate the offer but sadly I don't tow that way, not that there is anything wrong with it, it is 2021

Anyways........

In other news, me the Mrs are taking the bogan mobile into the city to pick up the eldest after a work function

The plan is to head from Holsworthy to the city, via Chronulla, then home from the city via Manly for Icecream Waffles

Pity about the weather but meh

Good times anyway

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What information do you need that you don't currently have?

ODBII can be done via a phone app in a far easier way, provided the LS ECU actually has transmission temperature sensors/readings that are transmissable that way. (I know IAT is)

I also know your IAT reading will be inaccurate.
I also know it will be messing with your tune/AFR as a result of it.

Its cool like that, assuming you have the stock sensor now that you have boost

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5 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

What information do you need that you don't currently have?

ODBII can be done via a phone app in a far easier way, provided the LS ECU actually has transmission temperature sensors/readings that are transmissable that way. (I know IAT is)

I also know your IAT reading will be inaccurate.
I also know it will be messing with your tune/AFR as a result of it.

Its cool like that, assuming you have the stock sensor now that you have boost

It's just a consumer thing

I shyed away from the Bluetooth OBD2 as I've heard a few issues with accuracy and also playing silly buggers with slush box converters locking up, meh, electrical black magic stuff

Plus I use my phone with MAPS alot

So, plug in

Why, I'm curious as to what  my:

Trans temp, the 4l60e has a temp sensor in it, it has a cooler on it but I will be more confident when I know the actual data

IAT, it has some aftermarket thingie that reads charge air temps post the water to air intercooler, I'm curious how it reacts to things like traffic, cruising, or rolling against Ferrari's.........JK........but seriously 

I'm planning to run AIT, Trans temp, volts and another thing that takes my fancy on a day to day basis for shits and giggles

In the end it's only a little thing that doesn't take up much space, I'm thinking above the rear view, the VX headlining and A pillar lends itself well to running a small cable from the roof line to under the dash

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I totally agree, I think an OBD display is a good thing to keep an eye on "stuff". I run an informeter in the fuga, to the left of the factory screen

fuga-informeter.jpg

I run one in the Titan too, and in that case I added a trans temp sensor in the line to the oil cooler to understand how that is going when towing on hot days in addition to the built in data.

In the stagea I run a gaugeART to the Link, it fun to watch the whoosh appear.

41-001_1024x768-400x300.jpg

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