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MLR's Bogan cruise ship


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On 12/24/2021 at 2:41 PM, mlr said:

#Kinkstaah I'll look into the car pulling timing from high IAT, when staging the car it was around 70°c IAT, I'm sure it was heatgun spec at half track

If the car is pulling timing at 80°c then that would explain the low mph

I might see if I can get the thermo that activates when the aircon is on, to be on even if the aircon isn't on, maybe even both thermos to activate off a switch...... or something...... meh, something that the tuner might be able to "black magic" on

This is the stock IAT timing table for a LS1 Commodore.

image.thumb.png.38ca2e967a0c3036745be74da44c4170.png

Remember, you may also actually have heat soak, but the stock sensor on any kind of aftermarket intake just gets heatsoaked to an insane degree without an airbox or some kind of shielding. I relocated my IAT to inside my pod filter but I'm yet to test it lol. Many people in the USA relocate them to outside the engine bay entirely, as it's more accurate to the air that is going into the engine, given it doesn't physically have time to heat up to the degree that the sensor reports.

THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO FORCED INDUCTION THOUGH.

So definitely check it out/look into it lol.

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On 12/24/2021 at 7:36 AM, mlr said:

Meh, I was smoked by a fairly stock Track Hawk that did a 11.5 and 125 MPH

It was the cars first real run so I'm not to concerned, it ran clean, drove home, and is GTG again

In saying that, if I did buy a SUV, the Track Hawk would be on the short list, they are weapons straight out of the box

400kw at the wheels with Ac off will do that

On 12/24/2021 at 9:41 AM, GTSBoy said:

I'm not convinced that going fast in a tall heavy heap of shit** is a good idea.

** The standard metric for describing anything made by Jeep.

How fun is it riding in cars that shouldn't do what they.

Do you have room to add a decent reservoir that could hold water/coolant with ability to add ice? Or just get yourself a MPVI2 and start doing some tuning at the track. Be interesting to see how much timing is being pulled with IATs

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On 24/12/2021 at 11:24 PM, Kinkstaah said:

This is the stock IAT timing table for a LS1 Commodore.

image.thumb.png.38ca2e967a0c3036745be74da44c4170.png

Remember, you may also actually have heat soak, but the stock sensor on any kind of aftermarket intake just gets heatsoaked to an insane degree without an airbox or some kind of shielding. I relocated my IAT to inside my pod filter but I'm yet to test it lol. Many people in the USA relocate them to outside the engine bay entirely, as it's more accurate to the air that is going into the engine, given it doesn't physically have time to heat up to the degree that the sensor reports.

THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO FORCED INDUCTION THOUGH.

So definitely check it out/look into it lol.

My IAT probe lives "under" the blower

So heatsoak is something that is troublesome to work with

MPVI2??? I'll look into it, but I wouldn't trust myself doing "black magic" 

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The above chart is how much timing is being pulled, load vs IAT temp and you can see that at your suggested 70C of temp it is pulling 6 degrees of timing at 0 psi.

Obviously your car has boost so that table will look different but if anything on boost I'd wager its more aggressive or what have you, depending on what the tuner has dialled into it.

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I use and recommend "old mate towing" everytime I get a transmission full of neutrals 

20211230_183632.thumb.jpg.b9f52281a3036417deae8a8e510f9e24.jpg

 

LOL

At least it blew near work, 3 hrs ago we were in Canberra and Goulburn 

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On 30/12/2021 at 8:18 PM, r32-25t said:

Time for a turbo 400

The cost of acquiring and then building a T400, then the required fab work, for a 3 speed, with no overdrive, unless you sell a kidney, is up to around $15k (I priced up a build for drive in drive out before after I broke it last time)

If it ain't the standard pump rotor that broke, which I can replace with a billet one cheaply, then options will need to be sussed out, like....

Option 1. If trans is lunched: Replace auto with a T56 trans, it may be the preferred option as it is alot cheaper compared to a fitting a T400, and it will easily hold the power the car is making

Option 2. Get Craigs to fit a built T400 (lots of dollars and hard to justify for a daily hack)

Option 3. Replace with another built 4l60e and pull the blower and just go back to NA

Currently Option 1 is looking good

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  • 2 weeks later...

T'was the pump rotor, again

They believe there wasn't enough setback to allow for heat expansion, so they machined the drive hub on the converter to get the correct setback clearance 

The cast pumps are apparently fine, but, correct setback is critical, if, due to heat expansion, the drive hub applies pressure to the face of the pump gear, eventually it will break it

So, basically a free fix, if you don't count the $300 on flat beds and the small amount of panic, I was having flashbacks to owning a modified Skyline

Time for a interchiller 

 

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On 14/01/2022 at 11:39 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

ZF or DCT conversion

DCT????? Because they never break and are cheap to fix?????

Nah to either, if I need something the choice with be between a built T400 with tall gears (most likely) or T56 magnum

 

 

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The setback was not the only issue 

During road tuning the trans they found that it would hit the limiter in 1st and 2nd because the computer wasn't fast enough to shift at full throttle 

No amount of tickling the pressures or shift points helped

The PD blower is just making to much torque down low and the 3.91 rear is killing it

Tall gears will help with this, so now I'm trying to workout what gears

My bolt in options are: 2.87-3.07-3.46-3.73

I'm looking at the 3.07

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