Jump to content
SAU Community

A Swiss dudes question


Recommended Posts

Hy guys

I drive an R34 GTT actual i use Castrol 10w60. I hear its better to drive with 10w40 like motuls turbolight. I have no oilcooler installed engine is stock with nistune 340ps. Who drives 10w40 from motul with no oilcooler and how good is it, like oil pressure stability oil temp etc.

Thanks  greets from Switzerland

20200321_172928(0).jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I drive the car only in spring or summer never at winter. I drive normali in the city or on landroads and  mountain and  at this point i push it really hard.

With the 10w60 i got in the summer over 100 degres.

I think the piston rings are good  compressiontest is between 11 and 12 bar. 

Oilpressure with the 10w60 at 90 degres is 2.2 bar at idle speed 1000rpm

So that sems to be ok too.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the castrol 10w60 supercar the temp gets under full load and  hard drive up to 110 degres. How it looks with the 10w40 i read that the motul turbolight is good for the rb engines. But only for normal drive? And whats with the hths in the oil? 10w60 is 5.8mPa and the 10w40 only on 3.7mPa so is that good? I asked this question because i have  a stock engine but 340hp with the nistune and run 0.9 bar if that helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

honestly mate, the car is making pretty basic power levels and you aren't racing it. Modern synthetic (or even semi-synth) oils are excellent compared to the olden days for everything up to short sprint/race use. So chuck in any 10w40 or 5w40 synth you are happy with and save a fortune.

Re temps, personally I'd be looking to keep it under 100, 110 and higher isn't a disaster but it does get hard on everything. Since you say you only drive in summer just add a medium sized oil cooler in good airflow and you should never have to think about it again. Plus, adding an oil cooler is cheaper than putting race oil in every 5000klm

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only if your cooler sucks.

A good oil cooler drops temps massively. I run the Trust coolers with 70deg C thermostats, so they don't pass below 70. The 32 has a 13 row and the 33 a 10 row.

Castrol edge 10w60 is good stuff. I use it on 2 of the GTRs, but we also have 45deg C summers. On the big HP RB26s or heavily competition the weights favoured by the big workshops seem to be the 10w60 or 15w50 depending on climate and/or bearing clearances.

With your power level and being a street only car the 10w60 is probably overkill, but it won't hurt it. 10w40 is the generally accepted standard weight for an RB26.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless you know what the temperature actually is (with a sensor) then you don't really know.

A 10-60 is thicker than a 10-40 at 100C. So it won't change the temp, but it will change the viscosity, so if you're targeting a specific viscosity it could sort of matter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes absolutely, which is more of a big end and mains bearing clearance issue regarding viscosity when an engine is really being pushed. Large clearances will require a thicker oil, small clearances lighter oil.

We are talking about a mostly standard engine here so a 10w40 will be more than adequate cooler or no cooler. If he drops in 10w60 still won't hurt it, oil pressure will definitely be more which ain't a bad thing - cooler or no cooler.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My only fear is that if the engine is REALLY being pushed, as in 130-150+C oil temps, it may be better off having 10-60 in there than 10-40.

There is sorta some logic in going with a thicker oil if you do know it's gonna get hot. That said, there's not a lot of in between where someone will take that as an option before they actually get an oil cooler and get oil temps under control. You should find that with enough cooling it'll be hard to really get up into the 130-150C range anymore, and thus the oil choice tends to be 10-40 or 50 if you really want to go ham/rebuilt engine with more clearances.

Realistically though, still don't think there's been a engine failure on this forum that someone can actually claim was bad oil/wrong oil, at least not in the realm of "10-40 or 10-60"?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it is important for people to realise something. The difference in viscosity between a 40 oil and a 60 oil, at the temperatures we're talking about (100+°C) is precious bloody little. At 100°C a 60 grade engine oil is sitting at ~20 cSt. The 40 is at about 15 cSt. The gap narrows as they get hotter. At 120+°C there'd only be a couple of cSt in it.

Table_5_viscosity_comparison_chart.jpg

Take a look at the right hand end of this chart to see how all these oil grades collapse towards the same viscosity at the higher temperatures.

graph_4_viscosity_comparison.jpg

 

All this does is tell you that it is VITALLY important to control oil temperature. Selecting a 60 over a 40 is not the correct solution. It's not even a good idea, as it will lead to a placebo effect making you think you're better protected, when, really, not so much.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



×
×
  • Create New...