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Smurfette R32 GTR build.


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Hello. Its been a couple of years since I've been here. I own a 1990 GTR. Originally the car was light blue, hence the name Smurfette. It has since received a new collour changing paint job and the power goals have changed also. Perhaps she will be renamed to Evil Smurfette.

After ma y years of ownership and various bolt on upgrades, the car is fine in a shop getting a proper rebuild.

Firstly, all the leaks, seals, lights, rust spots are being rectified. While that is being done and the engine is out, we will do  spool 3.4L stroker, PRP billet caps/brace upgrade. Head will also recieve an upgrade of parts and some port work. 

Car will run on 98ron on a day to day basis with e85 for track days. Intan pump will feed a surge tank which will feed 2000cc injectors. 

While the engine is being run in and I learn how to drive, drive train will remain untouched accept for a twin plate clutch. Later on i will get a PPG 5 speed and look to upgrade the drive shift, axles and diffs as needed.

For induction, I am leaning towards a twin G25-660 setup. It will be a squeeze but the result will be a more factory look and more the enligh power to have vreat fun in with the car. Does anyone know of any gtrs where thats been done?

I will keep the updates coming as often as I can. IMG_1806.JPG.314a4ec010c0669ad9c980c4503d1d7a.JPG

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I like it. I'm not normally a fan of colour flip paint, but that looks like a good choice for an R32.

I think your choice of wheels is going to become critical to how it ends up looking. Something black would be an obvious choice, but I'm sure something in a metallic colour (not a shiny silver) will also work.

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I agree, the wheels can make or break a look. I'm going to keep the wheels that are on it now. 17x10.5 very light weight. Very dark grey matt finish. I also removed the rear spoiler.

Trying to add another image of the car but not having much luck.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Small update.

In the process of ordering the spool 3.4l bottom end. 

9.5 compression ratio

Upgraded wrist pins and bolts

Billet main caps and brace.

Will have allot of rb26 and rb30 gear for sale in the next few days.

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  • 1 month later...

Things are moving slower then expected. Had a months delay on rust repair. But if all goes well, the car is getting picked up this week to get the rust repaired and engine bay repainted.

On the parts side, I have managed to secure all the interior parts I was missing. Plus:

Virgin RD28 block.

PRP block brace with integrated caps

A head which has been ported, polished, +1mm valves. 260/10.25 cams.

Will be going 3.2 instead of 3.4 to limit bearing wear due to sideload of long stroke.

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Things are moving slower then expected. Had a months delay on rust repair. But if all goes well, the car is getting picked up this week to get the rust repaired and engine bay repainted.

On the parts side, I have managed to secure all the interior parts I was missing. Plus:

Virgin RD28 block.

PRP block brace with integrated caps

A head which has been ported, polished, +1mm valves. 260/10.25 cams.

Will be going 3.2 instead of 3.4 to limit bearing wear due to sideload of long stroke.

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Big development overnight. I am now the owner of a JHH 3.2L bottom end.

Nitto 3.2L stroker

9.0 to 1 comp ratio

Darton sleeves

Block half grout filled

JHH billet main caps

JHH block brace and AWD adaptor

+625 head and rod bolts

Uograded pins

Bottom end is definitely not the weakest link anymore.

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  • 1 month later...

Your engine looks to be a bloody nice bit of kit.  Should be super strong.

What are the rust repairs?  Sills?  Wasn't that what it went in for when you originally got it painted or was those rust repairs just the visible parts that you've had painted and this is now all under the skin?

 

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There are some rust spots in the engine bay. I am going to get them repaired properly (new panels if needed). Plus going to add allot more weld around the points that take the punishment of 1000hp launches. 

This was noticed a couple of years ago but due to various issues, the engine never came out and the whole project was put on hold. 

Now that the car is all apart, work can be done properly.

Once all the repair and strengthening work is done, we will repaint underneath to stop rust coming back and paint the engine bay to match exterior colour.

Edited by khezz
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  • 3 months later...

Well it's been a while sins my last update. The 3.2L bottom end is all finished and with me. Body is just about done to. Engine bay will be the same colour as the exterior of the car. All going well, ill be at Cootamundra and Bathurst at the end of the year.

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  • 1 month later...

Starting to come together. Last of the panels have arrived. Shouldn't be long now. Looks like I'll be changing my turbo choice from G42-1450 to a Precision gen2 7685. By all accounts it will get me my power goals but with better street drivability. 

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So I am waiting for an invoice for an OS88 gearbox and OS quad plate clutch. I know the plan was to go for dog box but I just couldn't say no. Does any one know if shift cut can be easily installed after the gearbox has been installed or should I try and do it now?

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17 hours ago, khezz said:

So I am waiting for an invoice for an OS88 gearbox and OS quad plate clutch. I know the plan was to go for dog box but I just couldn't say no. Does any one know if shift cut can be easily installed after the gearbox has been installed or should I try and do it now?

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If you want to do it properly you need to install a gear position sensor BEFORE the box goes in. You’ll then need a strain gauge. Depending on the strain gauge used factor in around $2500 to do this.

Here are a couple photos of the sensor I used on the OS88.

The strain gauge was the “Motorsport systems” item. Same as what they use in V8 Supercars. It’s about $1500, made in Sydney.

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