Jump to content
SAU Community

stock RB26 oil pump choice today


Recommended Posts

Hello,

I know they are a lot of informations about rb oil pump but I still can't decided ...

I don't want to put an external pump or oil restrictor or extended sump.

Car will stay stock and might see some track days.

 

Here's the option I see so far:

- Tomei pump because it has a 25% increase flow rate only (Nitto is 40% and too much for my setup I guess), if using Tomei should I overfill a bit the sump ? I'm afraid of empty this one)

Tomei manual say you should run it with extended sump...

- N1/Nismo; I'm afraid of buying a bad batch of around 2010. 10 years later is the manufacturing ok with these parts ?

- stock, N1, Nismo housing with aftermarket gears (Reimax for instance)

 

I'm looking for the more reliable option as I don't want to destroy something or pull out the engine for a wrong choice ...so let's say budget is not a criteria

 

Thanks for your advice

Edited by bigboss59400
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You answered your own question there I feel.

If you want a stock street car without any track days then use a stock/Nismo/N1 pump and keep off the limiter.

If you want to do track days go Tomei and Extended sump there is a reason it says to use one.

I have run a tomei and sump with baffles for over 6 years and 40,000km+...so far touch wood no issues.

Thanks

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your reply,

Then remaining choice are :

- new stock housing with reimax gears (or is there any other brands ?)

- nismo, I suppose the flow rate is increased, can I still use it on a standard GTR ? (without oil restrictor for instance)

re they ok now ? because 10 years ago there were a bad batch...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, bigboss59400 said:

I will not go with Tomei as it required more modifications

THanks for the hint Dose pipe

Anyone knows the Nismo flow rate and if it's required an oil restrictor on a standard RB26 ?

Best regards

I'm pretty sure Nismo/N1/stock are all the same flow rate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok, so we've had some (expensive) problems but nothing critical, thankfully. I get parts from FCP Euro in the states and in this instance I got 4 x genuine BMW cooling lines and 4 x OE quality oil lines (because they had no genuine stock). Well, turns out the OE quality didn't fit and the guys wasted a lot of time with them. Thankfully FCP has lifetime returns but the genuine BMW lines locally were $250 each! They also discovered my drivers side engine mount was totally dead and the replacement mount was $350. This sucks as I almost bought new mounts when I did my FCP order and I would have had both the engine mounts for less than this local one. So, I'm assuming at least another $1500 on top of the existing number. They did reassure me that the new (used) turbos looked good which was my main worry. Car will be ready for Monday pickup. 
    • Forgot to add, that excellent economy was on street tyres, normal street alignment, I recall they were Kumho KU31. Current motor, with the silly alignment and tyres would go nowhere near those numbers.
    • And also, as small as the effect may be, the larger exhaust side places a lower restriction on the exhaust flow, even when off boost. When my bigger turbo went on you could hear the difference in the exhaust note at cruise (almost everywhere actually) and fuel consumption went down a little bit.
    • I got better economy after fitting a bigger turbo (when purely highway driving, Sydney to Forster, got down to ~8.3L/100KM), as it takes more throttle and RPM to get on boost.
    • Oops. Sorry mate. It is both excellent to hear and also surprising though. The amount of work required to (effectively manually, not on a production line) build a core vs your low retail price point is why I presumed that you were buying cores. But let's also be clear about what is meant by "build". At your price point I can't see you making cores from billet on a mill, even if CNC, or doing all the machine work on a rough casting. Surely the lumps of metal are sourced more or less ready to go from an Asian supplier, right? Maybe the same with shafts. I mean, you could turn shafts up yourself, but it's pretty slow going for items that are all essentially bulk order producable. I was always perfectly willing to believe that you assemble your wheels to shafts, fit up bearings and do all the balancing. I actually expected that you would have been doing all that even if the core did arrive from a supplier with most of that pre-assembled. Nevertheless, please accept my apology.
×
×
  • Create New...