Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


R33 S1 Stereo Surround (US)


LiteraCola
 Share

Recommended Posts

Good evening guys, 

So I’m in the middle of a stereo install on my 95 GTS25T and I’m running into a pretty big issue. I’ve got the wiring figured out and everything works (after removing the supplied RCA outputs for the speakers), but I’m running into problems getting the head unit to fit the dash panel. Also, my “universal Nissan” dash kit proved to be all but useless. Also, the Pioneer’s supplied trim ring won’t fit inside the dash panel. Originally, the car had a double din Carrozzeria with GPS and all that jazz, but my new head unit is a single din Pioneer. I’ve read that the N15 Pulsar din pocket will work, but that shit is hard to come by in the US. Anyone have any ideas how to fill the space? 
PS, pardon the rats nest of wiring inside the dash; this is still in the test fit stage. Once everything is fitted well, I’ll clean up the wiring. 
 

AB5B26FB-D5B7-4CD7-AEAF-69E116219CF1.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a DIN pocket like Plynx said and don't use the cage that comes with the HU. Afaik the head unit on mine sticks out a little also but thats to accomodate the bezel that goes around it. You may have to grind some of the edges down for it to fit flush, i had to with mine.

Edited by trel
Spell check
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, trel said:

Get a DIN pocket like Plynx said and don't use the cage that comes with the HU. Afaik the head unit on mine sticks out a little also but thats to accomodate the bezel that goes around it. You may have to grind some of the edges down for it to fit flush, i had to with mine.

Right after I posted this thread, I remembered the guy at the JDM dealer mentioning a site called Terra Firma. I went and checked it out and found this little number here. I also read about people drilling new holes in the mounting brackets. I’ll get a closer look at it after work. 
Thanks for the insight, guys. 

12F2EDAA-D539-485A-A052-5ECD73889F4C.png

Edited by LiteraCola
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That'll do it. I have a Pioneer HU as well and i just went out and checked (been a few years since installed) for your bezel to fit you'll definently need to trim the sides for it to sit flush and click into place. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Robzilla32 said:

Are you sure that it doesn't have a sleeve with bezel that you remove to fit in the narrower frame in tbe Skyline console?

Que?

The head unit came with the metal DIN sleeve that didn't fit inside the OEM brackets so I ditched it. I screwed the brackets directly into the head unit and it fit tightly. I will probably drill some new holes in the brackets to set the head unit back into the dash a little further; right now it sits about 1/2" out past the HVAC controls. I guess I'll get all the wiring cleaned up and secured and then wait to button it all up until my DIN pocket comes in... then I'll make all the final adjustments. 

In the beginning, I had an issue with the head unit volume. I followed all of Crutchfield's directions to the T, but when I turned on the stereo, the volume was extremely low. After some research, I found that the RCA cables (came pre-wired into the adapter harness) were the problem. The main speaker wires were meant to be unused. I cut off the RCA cables, soldered in the speaker wires and all is right with the world. Just waiting on one more set of 6.5s and my stereo project will be complete. Damn COVID, everything is back-ordered. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just figured I’d let everyone know that I’ve found closure with this project haha. Got all the wiring cleaned up, removed the rats nest from the previous owners DIY LED lighting and phone chargers under the dash and bolted everything up with my new OEM DIN pocket. The new 6.5” Kickers sound excellent! 
 

Methinks it’s time to vinyl wrap the dash trim.... 

 

F72F1671-D755-436A-9815-6FEC2BAC1B13.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Noooooo . . . . Dont vinyl wrap the dash fascia !

Do it properly.

Take off the dash fascia and strip off all the vents, switches, buttons etc etc.

Take a scouring pad and scrub off the factory spray on vinyl.

This is a bastard of a time consuming job to get it all off from all nooks and crannies but worth the effort.

Sand everything smooth with a fine wet and dry sand paper.

Get a small can of clear plastic primer to coat it and then get a can of matt or satin black enamel and paint it.( I used engine paint for a super hard finish)

I gave mine one coat and then a second coat holding the spray can back further than normal to give it a coarse, very fine sand blasted effect.

Worth the effort in the end 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/6/2020 at 5:54 PM, PLYNX said:

Noooooo . . . . Dont vinyl wrap the dash fascia !

Do it properly.

Take off the dash fascia and strip off all the vents, switches, buttons etc etc.

Take a scouring pad and scrub off the factory spray on vinyl.

This is a bastard of a time consuming job to get it all off from all nooks and crannies but worth the effort.

Sand everything smooth with a fine wet and dry sand paper.

Get a small can of clear plastic primer to coat it and then get a can of matt or satin black enamel and paint it.( I used engine paint for a super hard finish)

I gave mine one coat and then a second coat holding the spray can back further than normal to give it a coarse, very fine sand blasted effect.

Worth the effort in the end 

Got some photos of the finished product? I'm not completely sold on the vinyl wrap, but I will admit that I would like a subtle carbon fiber pattern. Nothing too flashy. I'd like the same pattern on the gearshift surround and the door window/lock trim. Right now, the gearshift surround and window switch trim are a glossy gunmetal color while the dash surround is... well, you can see. Shitty is what it is haha!

Edited by LiteraCola
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • VP race fuel like VP 109 ron unleaded is a waste of money compared to E85. Just go flex fuel setup so you can run on pump unleaded or E85 all without draining tanks or switching tunes. You go VP race fuel you will have to change tune when using it, then change back to a pump unleaded tune. VP109 for example will support about the same boost and timing increaes as E85, but it requires the afr's to be a lot leaner than E85 but richer than pump unleaded.
    • Whats your budget? Maybe call Nispro in QLD for quote - they build a lot of VQ and have a turbo kit in development - but id say at least 20k to do it right - oh actually maybe do LS swap will be cheaper but....hmm  im a purist - so id rather stick to VQ35DE or whats the point lol.... just my opinion - do what u want. its your car  
    • Ok sorry I should rephase my question. But good answer haha.  How can I make 400whp that isn't using nitrous. 
    • dyno run would be on VP race fuel or e85 / e98, E85 is not easily accessible by me. Closest pump is 30 min in a direction I do not travel. So while I will go out to get it. It will also get pump gas 93 octane is highest avilable in US so overall power will be down if mix fuels  e50, e30, e10 ect 
    • Cheapest way? Spray. A wet kit with 200hp jets could be up and running for less then $2000. Then its about $16 per pound when its time to refill your bottle.   
×
×
  • Create New...