Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


R32 GTR Engine Build in the U.S.


Cones
 Share

Recommended Posts

As you may have seen in the Newbie section, I recently imported a beautiful, one-owner R32 from Japan and, wouldn't you know it, I spun a couple of bearings after just a week of driving.  I wasn't planning to rebuild so quickly, but I guess that's how it goes with these cars.  Because I was concerned about prolonging the life of the motor, I had already purchased a Haltech, Koyo radiator, fuel filter, spark plugs, wide band, boost controller, etc. - just the basics for a healthy stock motor - and was scheduled for a tune, but never made it that far.  Fortunately I was just outside of the driveway when I felt it go so I was able to shut it down immediately, preventing a more catastrophic failure like a rod through the block.  

I debated tackling the rebuild myself with a mechanic friend who's a Nissan wiz, but ultimately decided to have it done by the pro's at Driver Motorsports in Virginia, USA.  If you haven't already checked them out then do yourself a favor right now! Driver Motorsports Website & Driver Motorsports YouTube.  I quickly fell way down the rabbit hole and this has turned into much more than I had originally planned, but isn't that how it always happens?  My goal is to retain a fairly stock or OE appearance, but I need mo powa babeh!  As I write this post the block is at the machine shop patiently awaiting it's turn, and I hope to have the car back with enough time to rack-up a few miles (km's) before winter is here.  Fingers crossed!

About the build:

CP pistons (86.5mm)

Manley rods

JHH block brace

ARP studs & bolts

Tomei gaskets

Nitto 1.1mm oil gallery restrictor

Ross head drain

Driver Motorsports custom catch can w/ sump drain

Nitto oil pump

Trust extended sump

Twin low-mount 2860R-5’s

ID1050’s w/ DW400 pump

NGK 7’s

Fluidampr crank pulley

Oil filter relocation

Haltech Platinum Pro ECU

Koyo radiator

Infiniti J30 fuel filter

Apex-i pod filters

AEM wide-band

AEM boost controller

Spec twin disc clutch

Cube short shifter

GKTech HICAS delete

GKTech front uppers

New inner & outer tie-rods

All new poly bushings

New rotors w/ Hawk pads

Fresh tires (tyres?)

Tomei cams, cam gears, and valve springs

E85 conversion

Fortune Auto coilovers

17" RPF1's 

 

 

Future Mods:

Somehow address the transmission (likely just a set of gears)

Maybe a big single turbo at some point (and bigger intercooler)

Address the cosmetic issues of a nearly 30/yo car

BBS LM's!

IMG_3480.jpg

IMG_3484.jpg

on the lift.JPEG

Engine Bay 1.JPEG

on the lift engine out.JPEG

Empty engine bay.JPEG

RB on stand.JPEG

Head.JPEG

block.JPEG

bottom end & crank.JPEG

pistons, rods, cams.JPEG

sump & bearing fragments.JPEG

JHH Block Brace.JPEG

Turbo Gasket .JPEG

Turbo 1.JPEG

Turbo 2.JPEG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick progress update:  

This process has taken much longer than anticipated, but the end is finally near!  The machine work was recently completed and the engine is being assembled.  Since I've waited this long I decided not to postpone the cams and E85, so on with Tomei 262 cams and a set of Tomei springs and cam gears.  Chassis mods include Fortune Auto 500 series coils, a set of 17" RPF1's, GKTech front upper control arms, new OEM tie-rods, and GKTech HICAS delete.  

Here are a few pics of the progress (the car on the lift is prior to coilovers being installed).  I can't wait to get behind the wheel again!  

 

extended sump test fit.jpg

extended sump welded 2.jpg

extended sump 1.jpg

extended sump inside view.jpg

block brace.jpg

block brace & girdle.jpg

finished block.jpg

Powder Coated Valve Covers.jpg

Wrinkle Red Valley Cover.jpg

finished sump.jpg

Engine assembly 1.jpg

engine assembly 2.jpg

IMG_1454.JPG

IMG_1581.JPG

IMG_1583.JPG

IMG_1460.JPG

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • I 100% agree that another intake setup would be better performing but I like the uniqueness it brings to the build. I am not paying someone to do the fabrication and this has become something I want to figure out. Call me stubborn for being sold a "bolt-on" adapter plate. The waterjet has been down so it was quicker to machine them. I had one of my machinists at work (who is enthusiastic about making car parts) to give me a hand over the weekend. We started with .75" scrap we had kicking around and profiled out the shape.  I transferred over the studs from the balance tube for a test fit. There is a slight interference caused by the distance between the top and bottom studs being off by .75mm. Not a huge deal as the split pins which locate the throttle bodies are on the bottom holes and they fit perfect. I just oversized the top holes on the ITBs to accommodate my stupid error in measurement You can see the difference in the ITB spacing vs the OEM RB20DET runner spacing here. The plan is to fill it with weld on the inside and weld on the outside as well. I can then smooth out the transition.  -Jordie 
    • You could add a larger reservoir to the heat exchanger circuit so can add ice when at the track. Where I was working at the time found adding a watertank/reservoir in boot of blown cars helped massively, less expensive than an interchiller kit but lost spare wheel well. Cars could do back to back runs with more consistant IATs. I fitted an interchiller and 4.9L whipple to a LS at a shop I was at and IATs were never a problem. 
    • Dont forget rotational mass weight saving is 3 to 1 also   But yes theoretically good, strong , light wheels for sure but also ive still buckles "best jap wheels" and sigh The overall combo youre building is strong 💪
    • Yeah, I'm gonna hit him up for some closeup photos of the journals/caps. Its at a decent price, especially since it has all the required parts for a complete cylinder head, minus the passenger rocker cover 🙃 I thought the same regarding the head not having oil. Its a camshaft, not a crankshaft? Surely the forces would be small enough that they couldn't do that much damage...
    • Two posts later and its the first post of 2022...
×
×
  • Create New...