Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Shell Rebuild


Recommended Posts

Brief History, Bought this Shell for the price of a round of drinks! It was stripped ten, fifteen years ago of all its running gear, and I mean everything. Why? It was a breaker. 

Pic shows sitting on drink crates, mocked up using 940 turbo Volvo rims, then Rota 17 inch

Bought all body panels, in a separate deal, spec2 I believe. 

DSC_0009.JPG

DSC_0079.JPG.a42e93c8bf7e1b2a1a16317410c906ca.JPG

Edited by maddy400r33
Pic
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shell was glass blasted and primed and undercoated this week, nothing held back, there was no repairs done on the shell previously, as with blasting, it's back to bare metal. Turrets are original and very clean. Overall for a 25 Yr old car, it's pretty solid. 

 

DSC_0143.JPG

DSC_0140.JPG

DSC_0142.JPG

DSC_0141.JPG

Edited by maddy400r33
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tnks, and thanks! 

It's cheap as chips, everything I bought with it or for it was, that's the way it gonna be, but everything will be done right, no corners cut here, if budget slows me.... So be it. 

Learning a lot, and hopefully will learn a lot from you yourselves along the way. 

I'm no stranger to car restorations! Normally work on 40 Yr old yokes, so this should be a breeze....... Yeh right. 

Atleast starting with a blank shell, I know what I've got, most skylines here are rot boxes, salted roads in winter, mostly wet, and mucky. Not good when most imports where not protected, very little paint on these from new, primer at best. 

Next step is allow paint to fully harden. Then seemsealer, and stonechip underneath.  Learning how to protect front shock terrets from under and above, also boot seems that leak. 

As for a GTR, not my thing, sorry. RWD ONLY, are you joking! In the land of AE86, donuts and drifting.... 

15 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Not to shit on the OP, but it's a shame to see time, money and resources spent on a 33.

<runs for cover>

Work so far includes, price of 5 glass blasting bags, and 3L of undercoat paint, less than 1 and 1/2 fills juice! 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Work is slowing but progressing, garage isn't inviting! Cold, 0°C, dark, and wet, but it is progressing. Making a few repair sections, seen a complete boot floor panel on ebay locally, (UK) at £600, got the part number of the sticker, and searched online. 

content://com.android.chrome.FileProvider/images/screenshot/16044367039561188999673.png

Any one use them? 

https://www.nengun.com/oem/nissan/74514-24u30

Progressed and made the boot floor section, by hand, as I had a few where the glass blasting exposed, it really doesn't take any prisoners. 

I'm moving on to a section in front of the rear wheels, it's a box section shape, and would be in front of the rear subframe. It may be the rear jacking point. 

Can anyone identify it in the image?

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Next up is chassis leg. Removed spot welds. Removed chassis section. Heated, straightened, new 3mm plate section cut, weld through zinc primer, and fill holes drilled, ready to be fill welded! 

Should outlast me! One more side to go. 

DSC_0223.JPG

DSC_0222.JPG

DSC_0221.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Wow, great work. Really appreciate when people do their own mods and rebuilds. Hope progress is continuing at a good pace. Can never have enough photos. I did my rebuild the easy way, keep it in the garage and don't drive it much. I happen to love the 33's. Mine is mint but would like to stitch weld and brace the chassis after 25 years. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change
    • Congratulations on your find  Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)
    • Well considering I have the exact same problem with that as the original one I don't think that the ignitor is the problem. I would imagine that this being such an uncommon problem the possibility of getting a new ignitor that is bad in the same way as the old one has to be very slim. I'll definitely pull everything apart this weekend and check the turbo out. Got quite a bit of things to check out Saturday like fuel pressure and the pcv so I'll report back once I do that.  Thanks everyone for all the replies this is all really helpful  
    • Rb's have issues with bottom end starvation, not head starvation. Which either way, you probably wouldn't ever see on a dyno. Strange... What's pump gas for you? Octane rating?
×
×
  • Create New...