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Jjtxaz24

1991 R32 GTR ITB

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So I got around to cleaning up the intake side because I had to replace some coolant hoses, and I asked a buddy if he cleaned his throttle bodies when he replaced his gaskets he said he didn't and you're not supposed to because of a seal nissan puts from the factory around the butterfly valves. 

 

Well, I cleaned em and now what? I don't wanna slap it together and have idle issues. 

 

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When I posted this I started searching and found that some who cleaned them and rebuilt engines had zero issues while others had a high idle. 

I ended up ordering it. So well see when it comes in. I didn't use a carb cleaner I used a cleaner thats safe on electrical connections since its all I had on hand. 

I dont see any current tutorials on applying that coat do i just open the butterfly valves and coat the sides with it then let em close?

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1 hour ago, Jjtxaz24 said:

When I posted this I started searching and found that some who cleaned them and rebuilt engines had zero issues while others had a high idle. 

I ended up ordering it. So well see when it comes in. I didn't use a carb cleaner I used a cleaner thats safe on electrical connections since its all I had on hand. 

I dont see any current tutorials on applying that coat do i just open the butterfly valves and coat the sides with it then let em close?

Should come with instructions on the tin I would think, I've never actually done it myself but I read up on it a while back. I have a high idle on my 32 post engine build - I had the intake paint stripped / cleaned, and suspect in that process the factory seals are now leaking a bit.

From memory open them up, brush the stuff on, close and leave it to dry with them closed and it will form the seal.

So you still have the factory coat in place yeah - you didn't scrape it off or anything? Elec contact cleaner is really gentle. You might be fine but me personally I would do the throttle coat, easier than pulling the manifold off again.

Will have to do mine at some point when I can be arsed pulling it apart.

 

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1 hour ago, Jjtxaz24 said:

When I posted this I started searching and found that some who cleaned them and rebuilt engines had zero issues while others had a high idle. 

I ended up ordering it. So well see when it comes in. I didn't use a carb cleaner I used a cleaner thats safe on electrical connections since its all I had on hand. 

I dont see any current tutorials on applying that coat do i just open the butterfly valves and coat the sides with it then let em close?

Report back if you can, be good to hear how it goes.

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1 minute ago, paulR32gtr said:

Should come with instructions on the tin I would think, I've never actually done it myself but I read up on it a while back. I have a high idle on my 32 post engine build - I had the intake paint stripped / cleaned, and suspect in that process the factory seals are now leaking a bit.

From memory open them up, brush the stuff on, close and leave it to dry with them closed and it will form the seal.

So you still have the factory goo in place yeah - you didn't scrape it off or anything? Elec contact cleaner is really gentle. You might be fine but me personally I would do the throttle coat, easier than pulling the manifold off again.

Will have to do mine at some point when I can be arsed pulling it apart.

 

Yeah, I used the electric cleaner, a micro fiber towel, and a soft bristle tooth brush. Nothing crazy, but I would hate to have to take this all off again to fix this.

I saw a picture on the tomei site it coats the butterfly valve outer surface.coat.jpg.650526af809640b1d8253281874fc38b.jpg

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Definitely clarify if they want them open or closed when left to dry. Thinking it might actually be best left open. 

Might be someone floating around here that can translate this (Japan section) - or even ask whoever you bought it off.

stock limit! great special price! TOMEI throttle coat dry lubricant throttle  butterfly. lubrication . sealing .... prevention .981019(N06203: Real Yahoo  auction salling

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Ran it through OCR and google translate ... pretty useless still 😄

---

For lubrication and sealing of the slottle butterfly 444 TOMEI Throttle coat'Throttle J (Applying to the butterfly improves the airtightness L Prevents hunting of the idle ring and suppresses galling. Also, smoothes the closing of the throttle butterfly. It is an effective lubricant for the maintenance of the throttle part, which causes various traps depending on the sliding state.
■ Brake for sealing and galling prevention of slot tol butterfly in such a part (To prevent squealing of the pad (Please do not use it for chamfering) Oil "" For the rotating part of the national rib that spits eggs
■ Advantages Dry lubrication using Niken Kamorifuden as the main raw material. Weekly finish with a brain thickness of 10 microns. Can be applied on a brushed container with a self-driving turret type. Modo left dance is peeled off beans
■ However, please talk about the can well before using it.
Nidake Molybdenum needle is sunk in the bottom of a heavy knitting can
Use the attached brush to scrape well. ”Tsu spatula, etc.

Please give me A
It can be quasi-fabricated.
M noise
Figure Rin

 

  • Haha 2
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So in the event I am not able to get this from overseas is there a good alternate? 

Bought from 1 spot in the UK and they said they wont ship to the US because customs dont like to allow these type of products to cross, so they refunded me the money.

I ordered from an Australian company (high octane racing) and waiting for them to send me the shipping quote, but I already ordered the Throttle coat. Shits expensive for what it is and the 1 use I'm gonna get out of it. 

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Got it all buttoned up, and I think I may have used a little to much throttle coat. Throttle feels a little sticky. I didn't mess with any adjustments at all so thats the only other variable. 

Other issue I'm having is that under load around 4k (so when I'm in boost) it feels like it hits a wall and it just falls on its face, and bogs down to almost dying and then gets back up to the idle of ~950

Prior to tearing it apart I'd have break up in the upper RPMs like around 6-7k but nothing how I'm feeling now. 

I was told by some buddies it could be a tune issue. 

I have the LS coils in it. I could swap back to the old coils. I havent checked the plugs yet but I'm assuming they're gonna show the cars running rich, cuz it is. 

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I swapped back my stock coils, ignitor and same issue. When I pulled the plugs they looked like the car is running rich (it is).

Tomorrow I'm gonna look into building a boost leak tester. I was thinking removing the MAFs, cap one and use the other to feed air and pressurize the system. Will that work? 

Found this link here: https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/gtr-boost-leak-tester-diy.174597/ but unsure where hes feeding air into from the compressor. 

Is there a relearn these cars need to go through once you change the gaskets out? 

Any help is appreciated, I'm at my wit's end with this car. Its always something. 

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Built a boost leak tester and happy to say that I don't have any leaks. I was kind of wishing I did and fix this issue. 

Got around to cleaning off any dirt and grime from the coils. I also did the ohm test to see if they are good. When I ohmed them out it read 0. I checked all 6 and they all said the same thing. FSM says .6-.9 ohms is ideal. Mine read 0. 

I changed the plugs to brand new ones and plugged everything back up. Fired it up and I pulled the pig tail off the coils individually. I can hear the RPM drop so thats a good indicator the coils are working.

I put my ear on a long screwdriver to the injectors and I can hear the clicking. Went for a drive and same issue. It feels and drives terrible. 

Things I did was change all the coolant lines, replaced the vacuum lines. I had previously blocked the lines off that led to charcoal canister. 

Screenshot_20201202-143138_Chrome.thumb.jpg.8be601165ba156fd31093eddb30b24a1.jpg

I went over my vacuum lines and I had these circled ones crossed. I undid them and got em right. Same issue. 

Car ran and drove fine before I yanked the intake off to replace the coolant lines and while I was down there vacuum lines  I did also clean up the AAC valve. I didnt take off the brass plug i just used the electric cleaner through the little hole and shook that out, and screwed out the idle adjustment screw to clean that out then out it back. 

Not sure what else to do guys. Need your help. 

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Still need some help guys cars been sitting and I never figured out the issue, also got busy with school and work.

I went through and found a pic of before I put it back together. I thought maybe I f**ked up the rear vacuum lines and I scoured the internet for some references  found a few and they seem right. As well as this vacuum line diagram. Screenshot_20210115-205550_Chrome.jpg.f268c0a1a96005c370d52d283e810e51.jpg

Im more worried about the rear lines as they would be a little more difficult to reach with the intake on. 

Here's how I think they go using the diagram... 20210116_114508.thumb.jpg.591354721b10e754d18943943ee93be9.jpg

Initially I did have the front green and blue lines crossed. I flipped em and I still had the same issue. That's what made me think I flipped something in the rear of that coolant return/vacuum tube.

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