Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Pulsar Turbo Systems


khezz
 Share

Recommended Posts

29 minutes ago, Super Drager said:

Lol mate ive had it apart and the specs match the real thing. If you don't want one then don't buy one, i'm giving first hand experience since i own one. 

I wasn’t having a go, I was asking a genuine question. Wanting to know what you were comparing it to, going from stock turbo to one of these, similar Chinese- Chinese turbo, u have driven the name brand equivalent with exactly the same set up as yours?

what’s the context of what you were comparing to say it works fine. 

it’s a turbo sucking air into a motor so yeh it works “fine” but is it making target boost at the right time? Laggier compared to what it should be? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, UWISSH! said:

I wasn’t having a go, I was asking a genuine question. Wanting to know what you were comparing it to, going from stock turbo to one of these, similar Chinese- Chinese turbo, u have driven the name brand equivalent with exactly the same set up as yours?

what’s the context of what you were comparing to say it works fine. 

it’s a turbo sucking air into a motor so yeh it works “fine” but is it making target boost at the right time? Laggier compared to what it should be? 

I cant say for my setup as im running mine in a compound setup and rear mounted. However a friends xr6t has gone from a gcg gtx35 to a pulsar and its exactly the same power and spool wise. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 16/11/2020 at 3:41 PM, khezz said:

Does anyone here use any of their products or know of anyone who does?

There are a few quick reviews on other forums and a few videos on YouTube. So far every comment is positive. All the reviews say they are well machined, balanced on both ends, well assembled turbos. Yet they are less then a 3rd of the price of a precision or a Garrett.

Would be great to hear some first hand experience.

Thank you

7.jpg

They are awesome! Really good quality in machining and materials and perform better than expected. I have a comparison between Garrett GTX3582R Gen1 1 and Pulsar 3566 for what it's worth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, infomotive said:

They are awesome! Really good quality in machining and materials and perform better than expected. I have a comparison between Garrett GTX3582R Gen1 1 and Pulsar 3566 for what it's worth.

Can we see it? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, infomotive said:

Really good quality in machining and materials

Just curious, I am assuming this is based on the very scientific eyeball ? I can’t see how you could determine material quality accurately, and I have assumed you haven’t actually measured anything either 


 

Knock offs can work good, everyone knows that. They can also have wildly varying quality and break in unusual ways

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Just curious, I am assuming this is based on the very scientific eyeball ? I can’t see how you could determine material quality accurately, and I have assumed you haven’t actually measured anything either 


 

Knock offs can work good, everyone knows that. They can also have wildly varying quality and break in unusual ways

Don't you dare use common sense in this discussion! 

Just remember turbos are an afterthought and nobody ever builds a turbo car and anticipates a turbo upgrade... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Just curious, I am assuming this is based on the very scientific eyeball ? I can’t see how you could determine material quality accurately, and I have assumed you haven’t actually measured anything either 


 

Knock offs can work good, everyone knows that. They can also have wildly varying quality and break in unusual ways

Your assumptions are third rate. When you assume you make an ass of you and me...

Visual inspection and disassembly of components by a competent tradesperson gives valuable insight.

Axial and radial clearances check out and when monitored are not changing with harsh conditions like 2 bar boost and no BOV. Drilling and tapping housings for anyone with a little experience reveals quite quickly the quality of the material.

If you have ever tightened a compressor cover bolt on a cheap turbo you will know it can be a tentative affair, not so on these.

Threads are perpendicular to machined surfaces etc etc. Fasteners are good. V-band spigots are perfect. They weld perfect. They don't distort. They exceed expectations in quality, reliability and performance.

There a a few minor details that are being improved as with any product.

They are not for everyone. Some people will never be able to accept anything other than name brand and don't have the ability to do their own research and testing. And that's ok.

 

Hope this helps the OP

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha I made an ass of you an me

oh well. 
 

I can also tell how good metal is by the colour of the sparks, but in the end it is a fairly wild guess isn’t it without proper metallurgy?

 

what are the minor details being improved?they seem quite relevant

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Haha I made an ass of you an me

oh well. 
 

I can also tell how good metal is by the colour of the sparks, but in the end it is a fairly wild guess isn’t it without proper metallurgy?

 

what are the minor details being improved?they seem quite relevant

Material specification is the same as what Garrett use except for 713c Inconel only on the turbines, no Mar-M option at this point.

Interestingly, I have replaced a Garrett Gen 2 GTX3582 that melted a hole through the turbine housing and damaged the turbine etc with a Pulsar equivalent. I supplied on the condition of no warranty as the customer was unwilling to fix the issues leading to the failure. The Pulsar turbo has against all odds survived, so far.

Just cosmetic details.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/11/2021 at 8:09 PM, Super Drager said:

Lol mate ive had it apart and the specs match the real thing. If you don't want one then don't buy one, i'm giving first hand experience since i own one. 

Should put the comp wheel on a scale and see how much it weighs compared to a Garrett. Would also be interested to see real world back to back tests on things such as boost threshold/ lag/ transient response etc. The cheaper turbo might match in physical dimensions, but that doesn't mean it's going to be as good as the real thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, djvoodoo said:

Should put the comp wheel on a scale and see how much it weighs compared to a Garrett. Would also be interested to see real world back to back tests on things such as boost threshold/ lag/ transient response etc. The cheaper turbo might match in physical dimensions, but that doesn't mean it's going to be as good as the real thing.

As i said, if you don't want one then don't buy one. If you think a theoretical miniscule variation in weight of the compressor or turbine wheel is worth paying triple what i paid for mine then more power to you. I'm more than happy with my poor-mans turbo.

What i find funny is that people on her wank over mamba/kinugawa but when another (much better) turbo comes along you won't even take someones positive feedback on it. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, infomotive said:

Material specification is the same as what Garrett use except for 713c Inconel only on the turbines, no Mar-M option at this point.

Interestingly, I have replaced a Garrett Gen 2 GTX3582 that melted a hole through the turbine housing and damaged the turbine etc with a Pulsar equivalent. I supplied on the condition of no warranty as the customer was unwilling to fix the issues leading to the failure. The Pulsar turbo has against all odds survived, so far.

Just cosmetic details.

 

Mate i wouldn't bother any further, they seem content not to listen to first hand experience so there's no reason to continue trying to explain anything. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/13/2021 at 10:41 AM, djvoodoo said:

Should put the comp wheel on a scale and see how much it weighs compared to a Garrett. Would also be interested to see real world back to back tests on things such as boost threshold/ lag/ transient response etc. The cheaper turbo might match in physical dimensions, but that doesn't mean it's going to be as good as the real thing.

I can tell you what will happen..they will be the same..they would be made by kts...the biggest makers of billet wheels in the whole world..most places get there stuff made there..a lot claim as there own..Its piss easy to make a comp wheel exactly the same..its not even expensive..they are like $120 a piece(or where) if you buy one with a kts trade account

Thats all they do..kinga/mamba they are all kts to

Sorry guys..but these turbos are the shit.....china has stepped it up on a new level

Maybe the only complaint will be the bearing system is not up to scratch with the german etc stuff..but for most people..they wont do that many kms anyway...failing that..you can buy these turbos with aus built quality cartridges already...expect to pay another $1000..still cheap..a g42 for $2500...

Edited by jet_r31
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/12/2021 at 6:11 PM, Ben C34 said:

Just curious, I am assuming this is based on the very scientific eyeball ? I can’t see how you could determine material quality accurately, and I have assumed you haven’t actually measured anything either 


 

Knock offs can work good, everyone knows that. They can also have wildly varying quality and break in unusual ways

Ask tao...looks like he is using all same housings etc now...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/08/2021 at 11:08 AM, The Mafia said:

Has anyone used the Pulsar SXE range? Any results? I am keen to try one. Specifically the S369 and S372.

Thanks :)

Best bet is to check some US forums, i know a lot of mustang guys run bigger pulsar turbos and have good results. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • So….. I’ve replaced all the coils and made sure I have a spark by fitting a spark plug to one of the new coils and cranking the engine. I’ve ensured I have fuel by removing what I assume is the ‘return to tank’ fuel line and cranking the engine. So I have a spark and fuel and the car still won’t run. Any ideas? may be time to get an auto electrician out! 
    • EFI Solutions aka Taarks have a great kit just for that. Better to have facts/data before making a decision. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/exhaust-pressure-sensor-pulse-damper-emap
    • I'm not sure why you removed the sound deadener???  Don't bother with DIY remedies... this is how you can do it properly. For the lightly stained areas, just stick to a fine grade wet sand paper....and then paint over once the stain is gone. For the worst areas...especially the pitted ones...you just need to sand the rust in the localised spot working down from a heavier grit to medium grit wet sandpaper, which will get most of the rust off. It's just localised rust from the spare wheel touching the boot. Don't go to town on sanding the whole boot...not needed! Try to avoid sanding the seam sealer etc (obviously) After the rust spots are down to bare metal - use a fine brush dipped in "RUST DEOXIDISER"...and carefully apply this to the little rust areas. It's important the chemical you use is DEOXIDISER. After applying that, let it sit for a while and obviously wipe off with prepsol before it dries, and repeat 3-4 times. If you go to a panel shop they will probably be able to sell you some - as the trade products are a shitload stronger than retail products. After deoxidising the rust, scuff the surrounding paint with red scotch brite....& then you are ready to apply etch primer and then paint the matte gray colour on. Mask up the surrounding area using tape & paper..... as you don't need to paint the whole boot, just blend it in and keep the repair as small as possible. Spray can paint or spray gun depending on your level of expertise will be fine. Probably will cost you about $100-$150 in materials.  
    • Interesting. The 30/900 looks right on paper but weather it gives me enough headroom is the question. I dont have a pressure sensor in the exhaust manifold so I won't know if I have a restriction unfortunately.
    • It depends if your current turbine is a restriction or not, if it is go up to the 35, it’s it’s not then stick the 30. Also the g30 turbine wheel will flow more then your gt30 one either way you go the compressor wheel is going walk away from your current turbo 
×
×
  • Create New...