Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Replacement clutch recommendation for an R32 GTR


djr81
 Share

Recommended Posts

Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement clutch for my R32 R.  I currently have a Nismo twin plate (The super copper mix one) and it is, in short, horrible.  Happy with the twin plates, happy with the lightened flywheel its just that the friction surface is sticky and horrible to slip It makes driving the car around town a chore.

 

Output is 450rwhp only.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, by now everyone knows I am an avid ATS advocate and consider them to be the absolute best clutch on the market bar none. So at that power level, if you had say an ATS spec 1 carbon triple rated at 1400hp you would likely never need to replace the clutch again - ever. I have them in both my 32 and 33 and the way they are progressive is on another level compared to any ceramic or metallic based clutch. Only downside is price, they are off their head expensive now at around $5k, but you do get what you pay for.

If budget is a concern at around the $2.5k mark Xtreme now make their own carbon twin, and is probably what I would get if an ATS is too much of a stretch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love the ats carbon clutches but the price is insane. I have an xtreme 230mm organic twin in mine currently and I love it!! So easy to drive and light under foot and only about 1500 new 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As @r32-25t mentioned the organic Xtreme twin plate is a great option for drivability if the carbons are still too much. Probably the best value for money vs quality multiplate on the market for sure.

Make no mistake though organic plates won't last as long as a carbon when launching, but nicer on flywheels than ceramic or metallic plates.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It doesn't get launched very often, if at all.  Not much interested in drags or hillclimbs.  The Nismo clutch is good other than all that copper makes it feel sticky underfoot.  Cost is not a huge issue but I don't think I really want to spend $5k on a clutch. Ill have a look at the Xtreme option.  Thanks for the recommendation.

I used to have a HKS twin plate which was pretty rattly but it had bugger all flywheel so got slipped a fair bit and hence worn out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

NPC 10" single plate organic will be more than enough with that power output.

Yeah but why would ya ? For the competitive price of the Xtreme 230mm twins you are getting a chromoly flywheel with it as opposed to using a stock / stock type flywheel with the single.

Not to mention backup from ACS in Adelaide is miles better than NPC.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, can't fault ACS. They gave me a near complete replacement on a clutch that I had been dailying for years when it did something weird and turned one of the springs inside out. They couldn't explain why it shat itself, couldn't blame me for such an odd failure, so just ponied up. I would have been happy with any contribution from them at all, let alone nearly all of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, BK said:

Yeah but why would ya ? For the competitive price of the Xtreme 230mm twins you are getting a chromoly flywheel with it as opposed to using a stock / stock type flywheel with the single.

Not to mention backup from ACS in Adelaide is miles better than NPC.

Just had a look at prices, you're correct!

Damn, I'm out of touch with car part prices these days lol.. I've had the same clutch in the R33 since when it made stock power till when the motor went bang at 400kW+

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Hey I have a spare CAS unit if you wanted to borrow or buy
    • All issues mentioned are mitigated by running billet gears and a long nose crank. My question pertains more to the oil pump housing differences. I already have an RB25 pump housing I wanted to put billet pump gears in. I was wondering if there's any advantage if I purchase an N1 pump instead and put billet gears into that. Even stranger is I found a link (One in OP) that states the RB25 pump housing is actually preferable which I'm wondering why.   Thanks
    • In the middle of the rb25 upgrade on the rb20. Its actually a Arashi bolt on. Its in and lined up perfect First question is can I use a standard hose as my oil return line? New turbo fitting is shorter and having to  change the line/hose The oil supply/intake hose has a smaller hole than stock. Not sure I should go back with the old one   Any other tips would be appreciated   
    • So just to update: I changed the brushes over and polished the commutator using a 1500 grit sanding sponge; it was super easy to polish being copper. A power tool wasn't necessary, although could have made it easier if you have the finesse to use it well.     Yet this was to no avail, the motor worked as it did before, stop, start, stop start, etc. Today I went to my mechanic's shop to do a few things. I showed him the motor and asked in broken Japanese "who can fix this?", he took it from me and had a crack, was able to fix it-ish. From what I could understand (which is very little), the problem with the motor was with the clutch disc located amongst the gears, I saw it whilst he was working but couldn't identify any issues. I say he fixed it-ish, because now the motor will run continuously when free from the rack, which is great. But once I had reinstalled it, the tilt function would work but the sliding function sounded off, like the motor was under more load than before and the motor was struggling. We're going to pull apart the rack in the new year and see what we can find.  Hopefully this is of some help to others that get sunroof motor issues with their R34, S15 Silvia, or highly unlikely the Z10 cube. I will update this when more progress is made.
    • AFAIK in the RB26 section of the service manual it explicitly says not to take apart the AAC valve. If you took it apart once there's no harm in taking it apart again to see if you can save it.
×
×
  • Create New...