Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Recommended Posts

Hi guys

So Ive been building a fully forged rb20 with kelford 272 cams

g4x ngtr plug in

bosch 044 pump out of a surge tank

It’s getting chucked into a s13 drifta

Engines gunna be back from the machine shop in 2 weeks and I’ve been getting a turbo sorted

420-450hp is what I’m aiming for 

I was originally going after a 3071 gen 2 off pulsar but after talking with some people who’ve done it before they said a 2871 would be better but might not make it to 450

But there’s a new turbo that kinagawa have done called the TD05H that’s bolt on for rb20/25 that I got told is the way to go but there aren’t many reviews on it

Ive been told it’s got basically no lag and can easily do 450+ but will need low 20’s pound of boost

I’m going with the 8cm rear

20g billet Compressor wheel

9 blade sts turbine wheel

so im just after a second opinion if anyone else has run this turbo?

cheers

 

907C5643-B2F6-41DE-8BF4-5741107547E4.png

253AF18B-F1AC-4B50-BE26-992EBB137D1E.png

Link to post
Share on other sites

TD05 is not a new turbo. It's an old Jap design. Used on Mitsus, etc. Kinugawa are just making "new" copies of it, with different wheels, etc.

Why not talk to Tao about what he can do for you?

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

TD05 is not a new turbo. It's an old Jap design. Used on Mitsus, etc. Kinugawa are just making "new" copies of it, with different wheels, etc.

Why not talk to Tao about what he can do for you?

Oh ok 

don’t know Tao man?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Literally on the first page of this very forum

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-turbochargers-and-high-flow-services-development-thread/?do=getNewComment

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Forged crank?

Standard crank is forged. But I get where you're coming from when someone says they've got a fully mad setup with everything forged which usually means just some random forged rods and pistons thrown in.

The most durable setup as you know is forged high silicone content pistons, billet steel rods with at least minimum 3/8" ARP2000 spec rods bolts and a billet steel full counter balance crank - not just some random "forged" stuff.

I've  had some Eagle forged H beam and Scat forged I beam RB26 rods before and was not impressed with their rubbish.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Topics

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll need an aftermarket ecu to do any of what you asked about.    platinum racing products makes a crank trigger setup for the single cam rb30 engine.    LS coils would br a good choice as they’re cheap and plentiful, then run leads from them to the spark plugs 
    • Hey Guys thank you for the replies, very much appreciated
    • Hey All,  Hope everyone is well. Long story short, Bought a 2001 Mazda 121 Metro (Small Size Little Japanese Demon) with the most underpowered motor and feel, but still at a minimum a fun car, which makes a 60 zone feel like a space shuttle launch. The few questions I have are, one, got two oil leaks. One is coming from the sump plug (probably incorrect terminology), and another further behind. I was wondering since it is FWD if this could be trans or something else but got no clue, been underneath but a new oil leak started today but could be aircon or something i don't understand. I know one is defo engine oil, but the other, i didn't have time to check. If anyone is from Perth and has some time or interested (which i doubt anyone is) I'd owe them a life debt to look at the nugget. Two, I am deciding if I am going to be a dickhead as per usual and cut the exhaust just before the muffler on the final 90 degree bend and stick it under the car and point it towards the underside of the side-skirt. The internal questions inside this are, one, if the pipe doesn't stick down or though the side skirt will it cause exhaust gases to pool underneath the car (close to fuel tank) and do i keep the muffler to f**k the cops off or do i just send it? Three, my final stupid question. Now i know all of you hate pod filters and they are useless, but the pod filter i've added is definitely better than the stock 30mm pipe of airflow that the air-box was connected to. I have absolutely sketched the daylights out of this by finding out that adding a pod involves attaching pod to maf, and then i discovered an air temp sensor which i may or may not have drilled into my stock intake pipe and just plugged and walked away (yes i know it is bad and it is my first car sooo, sketchy is all i've got). To resolve this, I have got 3 inch tubing which will connect all fine (i've tested it) and made sure it plugs all together with the OEM parts, instead of the 2 inch tube. This new tubing is mainly stainless steel with silicon joining pieces and a somehow very well non-sketchy hole with a rubber seal for the air temp sensor ( i know, how advanced!). Anyway, back to the problem, the connection pipe i have made doesn't fit in the car.. , so does anyone have any ideas about how to go about keeping the pod, with new piping? Anyway sorry for the headache that is this nugget, but, have to learn on a trash car to do something bigger... Thanks all Billy
    • ighty so my distributor shat the bed the other day and considering that the last owner had already done some work to the dizzy, I thought its not a bad idea to upgrade to a new system.  ive done a good amount of research across the web/forums on different ignition system that can be used but I've still got a lot of questions left unanswered. Can the coil packs that suit an RB20det or RB26det/25 or NEO"s fit into the rb30 N/A, because i was thinking about running spitfire coil packs "DIS 008 or DIS 001" (not sure if theirs room for them under the intake manifold or if theirs a reason they cant be run on non turbos idk sounds stupid),  What wasted spark systems can i fit up to my dirty 31, and do i need to set up a new ECU to run it (im running stock ECU) Finally i'm doing this to increase reliability, to get better efficiency at high rev and maybe a little bit of fuel economy, but is it worth converting ignition systems, i.e. can i achieve these same traits from an after market distributor and some tampering here and there.... also its safe to say different ignition systems are illegal on p plates?   yeah any help or comments of this will be f**king legendarily helpful    
    • It was a super solid base to work from! Love the little beast!
×
×
  • Create New...