Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


OST Micah

RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread


Recommended Posts

22 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Im talking about inside the wire, along the conductors.

Maybe. The connections in the tank are sealed as are the connections outside the tank so even if that were the case the fuel would have a hard time getting into the wire and out of the wire. Having wires pass through the fuel hat is common even in high end aftermarket systems that we use all the time. I have yet to smell fuel vapors on those systems.


Got back to work on the suspension. One of the HICAS ball joints was toast and the other only had a rotted boot but I decided to replace them both. Got the bad one out first to test fit the new one.

mLKwKeh.jpg

However the new one was about 25 thou too small to press in. After spending a few hours on the phone with multiple sources all telling me I had the right part number I got ahold of a Nissan dealer that had two potential part numbers in stock. They pulled both and measured for me. Turns out I had ordered the right part number and the right number was on the bag but the part in the bag was the wrong number and for a GTST! What a royal pain in the butt.

Ball joint from the car
imAar9O.jpg


Ball joint I recieved
mzbmEkj.jpg

 

Once that was all sorted and new joints were ordered and installed I compressed the suspension and reduced (increased?) the negative camber as much as I could until the tire just kissed the quarter lip. I don't want to roll the quarters on this car so this is as far as I can go. 

b0XQ2CX.jpg

 

Once that was sorted I moved to adjusting the tension/traction/trailing arm to reduce toe change under compression. After some playing I ended up with just 1mm of toe change from ride height to 3" of compression. With the car on the ground I have much closer to 0 camber than I thought I would. Really happy about this. I'll get the car strung up next week and we'll see where we end up. 

BnK9YPu.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the car on a set of scales we borrowed. Tried to get the corner balance sorted but there's something screwy going on with the front right corner that I didn't have time to figure out. But the car weighs 3428lb with me in it an 1/4 tank of fuel. No lightweight!

kmkjCn0.jpg

 

Then got the Smart Strings out to dial in the alignment. Really happy I could get 0 degrees camber in the rear. Anxious to see the improvements this season.

Szzhdzn.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

The transmission crossmember bushings were completely shot. Rather than buy a new set or aftermarket set I tried my hand at making some. Drew these up and printed them out. 100% infill so a solid piece. We'll see what happens!

WU527KI.jpg

4jNpb95.jpg

DIUpdfm.jpg

fg45KkP.jpg

 

Next item on the list was a clutch pedal position sensor. This was something I've wanted to do for a while for a couple reasons. The first was to use pedal position to activate the hydraulic slipper on launch. Without it I had to find the slip point at the line and then put the car on the 2-step. With the position sensor I planned to keep the pedal on the floor and dump the clutch at launch. The slipper would activate at a set pedal position. Much less to do at the line and makes the car easier to drive and more consistent. The other reason was to use it to active a flat shift cut. I had a flat shift cut before but found that I slightly rode the clutch pedal just before a gear change which would activate the cut. With the position sensor I could activate the cut once the clutch was pushed to a certain point.

This is what I came up with. It's a bolt on bracket to keep fab work under the dash to a minimum and uses a brake pedal position sensor from our 2015 Challenger parts car.

c6MZzsL.jpg

kOptTFu.jpg

 

The last item on the list was larger injectors. I saved this for last in case I couldn't get everything done before our race day I could still take the car and dial in the launch and run the car. The ID1050s were at 98% in Maryland at around 37psi of boost on 60psi base fuel pressure.

Got a really good deal on a set of refreshed by ID ID2000s. While I was swapping the injector connectors I decided to redo the upper section of the engine harness. Pulled it all apart, depinned the connectors, and used heat shrink instead of the electrical tape I had on there and made proper breakouts for each injector. Much cleaner and far more durable. I made the coolant pressure sensor wiring too short but that will be addressed soon. I need to stop rushing when working late after work. I'm still teaching myself wiring but I'm happy with how it turned out. The next one will be better.

yz0ZSpY.jpg

zlyK36P.jpg

NX0WPIE.jpg

IeVXAYs.jpg

sDmLUso.jpg

Hk1RAJn.jpg

A54pPZR.jpg
 

Got the car on the dyno and tweaked the tune for the new injectors. I dropped the base fuel pressure down to 30lbs to aid in getting the car to idle at 800rpm and at stoich on pump gas/race fuel. It may or may not have been needed but the car does idle how I want. 

Went to the track on Friday. Lots to play with and adjust in terms of launch and shifts. However I spent most of the day fighting fuel slosh which has not been a real issue until now. With the drag coilovers set up for weight transfer the angle of the car changed so much. I intended for that but didn't think about fuel slosh. Even with over twice the amount of fuel I normally run it was still going into engine protection. Made three partial passes that all got aborted. 60' was looking promising though. Car launches very differently and I'm excited to tweak the power application in the tune to get it sorted. The pedal position sensor worked flawlessly for the launch as well! Big help there. Still needs some playing with in the tune for the flat shift though. Takes too long to come out of flat shift. I think I'll switch to a time-based cut activated by an initial pedal position rather than on and off by pedal position. 

Then after letting the car sit in the pits to cool I got back in for another hit. Unfortunately the clutch would not disengage and I could not get into any gear with the car running. In gear and clutch pressed I could turn the motor over with the starter but not fast enough to fire up. I think the disks may have locked up on the input shaft when everything cooled down because the car shifted fine down the track and down the return road so I don't believe the floaters or friction material is damaged. Clutch pedal feels great and the slave moves the fork. Got to get it apart and have a look. First one for me!

u7RCO1u.jpg

Y8NhScc.jpg

Edited by OST Micah
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright, so the day after the track I unloaded the car and bump started it down the driveway. Kicked the clutch a couple times on the way down to free it up. I then drove around using the clutch for a few miles. This gave me the clutch back but it was still slightly difficult to get into gear while sitting. 

Pulled the trans the following week after work and to my surprise the input slid right out of the clutch plates. Okay, so not locked on the input shaft. Pulled the clutch apart and right away saw gold friction material bonded to the floaters, pressure plate, and flywheel. This raised material must have been keeping the clutch from disengaging.

Cleaned all the material off, scuffed down all surfaces, and reinstalled. Drove the car around for a week and the clutch is back to normal. 

20210414_153544.jpg

20210414_153601.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

So these past couple weeks have been a bit of a hair puller. At the track the car was acting odd on the two-step and would take forever to build boost. Never had this issue before. I had a look over all the piping and turbo when the trans was out and all seemed well. Once back on the street the car would drop 2-3lbs of boost around 6800rpm when rolling into second gear. The same would happen in 3rd but at a higher boost level. After this boost drop the boost level would jump around and would not be a smooth incline like it had been or should be. I took the wastegate, BOVs, and charge pipe apart as well as made a lot of tuning changes to troubleshoot. Nothing made a difference. Finally I ran a line from a boost source into the cabin to the pressure sensor on the Elite. Problem solved! So apparently a MAP sensor can partially go bad and slowly get worse over time as this did. Now I know. New sensor ordered. When it goes in I'll test the wiring but in my experience wiring doesn't fail at the same time every time so I'm pretty confident it's the sensor.

Here is what the two signals looks like; on-board sensor vs. intake mounted sensor. The generic sensor is the intake sensor and the Manifold Pressure is the on-board sensor.
 

image.png

Edited by OST Micah
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

What a bugger this all was. Ended up being a bad oil pressure sensor. The sensor read just fine and accurately but was somehow grounding out the 5v reference after 7200rpm. This caused the MAP signal issue at that RPM. 

Lots of testing, troubleshooting, and laying awake at night wondering what was going on. 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Talked with Drew from Direct Clutch Service and he was able to make me a custom clutch. 9" twin, billet cover, heavy flywheel, and sintered iron friction material. This material is what the guys here use when putting a lot of heat into the clutch. Excited to install and test. It's bully looking! Very heavy, very thick floaters and disks. Should handle the heat well.

20210615_101854.jpg

20210615_101834.jpg

Edited by OST Micah
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I also got my original transmission degreased and pressure washed. Going to try to get the case blasted and then assemble with my Speedtek gearset in case I break the spare trans that's in the car now. 

20210621_132305.jpg

20210105_132136.jpg

20210105_132130.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally got a chance to install the new clutch. Took some pictures next to the OS Giken TS3B. The DCS 9" dwarfs the OSG. 

Found the TOB clearance to be within spec with the recommended 18mm sleeve. Measured finger height on the cover for future reference. 

Not sure when I'll be able to go to the track next but I'll be using the time to break in the clutch as much as possible.

All laid out on the table
bUVX6cE.jpg?1


OSG disk on top of a DCS disk
0ibGb7B.jpg


Thickness compare
vPxapMH.jpg

 

Holes in the floater and in the pressure plate
TvrL9nZ.jpg

 

In the car! Love the OS Giken alignment tool.
KYO5Zm7.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

A while back I purchased a lot of aluminum exhaust parts to one day put a full time full exhaust on the car. The main reason was safety. I had seen a couple open header cars at the track put oil under the tires from engine damage and wreck. Now that I'm going to start pushing this motor harder I would rather eat the power loss for the sake of safety. The reason for choosing aluminum was for the weight and the low cost compared to stainless. The Promod guys use aluminum and I've done an aluminum downpipe on another car before and it worked well.

The downpipe material is all schedule 11 and the exhaust portion will be schedule 14. The schedule 14 will start where the factory cat normally sits. This is to make all significant bends from schedule 11. The downpipe is 5" and tapers to 4" for the exhaust.

A couple things I wanted to change from my last design: wideband sensor must be accessible from the engine bay for quick changes on the roadside or at the track. Downpipe needs to come out for turbo removal so this must also be able to be done from the engine bay with no jacks/lift. I want to be able to remove the turbo quickly at any location should the need arise. This is the reason for the v-band partway down the downpipe. The exhaust will be mounted to the mounting ear on the transmission and hopefully that will hold it well enough to R&R the upper downpipe section without getting under the car.

Downpipe all welded. I'm not a pro at welding but certainly seem to be improving. 
R30tRlX.jpg

 

In the car
2s8ZNX1.jpg

 

From underneath
Fi84cEY.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now





  • Latest Posts

    • I forgot I did jump it with a 200 amp battery charger before I got a new battery. Is there wires that might have fried or like a immobilizer that could be causing the issue?
    • could cause lean. almost never fail in any meaningful way. My 25DET Neo will cruise at ~400°, pre-turbo. Literally in the turbine inlet. Max load is ~900°C.
    • Thanks for your reply  So for you it's not related to the fuel pump and fuel regulator  What temps should I see on the highway idling at 3k in 6th gear ?  So maybe the CAS is wrongly set, I will remove some advance to see thanks 
    • Hi SAU Team My son and I inherited a very unloved 2002 V35 with a VQ30D. Unfortunately there was a snapped rod in piston one and after stripping it down today the only good parts left are bolt on accessories crank and heads + 5 remaining pistons. Awesome hole in the side of the block. We just picked up a VQ35DE for a couple bucks that has 2 snapped rods but otherwise bottom and top end are good for rebuild but no harness or ecu. While i continue trawling thru the threads here i was wondering if anyone has tried any stoking or de-stroking VQ engines with DD/DE combos and had any experience with the direct injection systems?   Were not specifically building it for performance or throwing a spooly boy on it but rather the challenge:      
    • Hi All. Id like to introduce the project my son and i are building which is a V35. Ive built quite a few A,L,N and SRs over the years and we found a cheap V35 with 6 pots and decided to have a bit of fun with it. Look forward to learning from the knowledge base here and  hope to contribute where we can.  
×
×
  • Create New...