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Hi guys, I am located in Perth W.A and if anyone in Australia has a good condition RB25 Neo complete I am interested in buying it please. 

I am also searching for advice with rebuilding a RB25 Neo for the utmost reliability to handle 550-600rwhp on Ethanol, e85 fuel. With a budget in mind - I originally budgeted $15k. Engine will be going into my 1997 R33 GTS25T Skyline.

Here's what I am looking at doing: 

Acid bath, crack test crank, block and head. 

Machine block deck surface, bore and hone cylinders to suit 86.5MM pistons. Machine tunnel for main bearings (do I need oversize or undersize bearings for the crank or potentially leave it as is if ok?) 

Pistons: CP Forged 86.5MM Pistons: $1607.00 

Spool Connecting Rods: $898.00

ARP Main Stud Kit: $315.00

ARP Head Stud Kit - 2000 series: $399

Nitto Head Gasket 87MM: $495.00

RB25 Nitto Oil Pump: $1,500

Oil restrictor as per Oil control thread: ~$80

Lewis Engines Oil Sump: $600

ACL Race Bearings - Big end and Mains: $215.00

Taarks oil relocator / oil cooler: $1,100

Injector Dynamics 1300cc injectors (bit expensive but my tuner recommended them): $1,700 

Freddys intank hanger for R33: $1,195

Upgrade fuel lines to 8AN to fuel rail: $1,200 - Is this required for 600rwhp?

Fully recondition head, cut new seats, new guides, new seals, Supertec valve springs and retainers, surface head, inspect and reuse oem valves: $3,500 - $4,200 

PRP rear head drain: $360.00

Machine Work/measure/check clearances etc: $2,000

Mantic Twin plate, cushioned Cerametallic clutch: $2,195

Full Nissan Timing kit: $800

All up I'm looking at ~$20-22,000 including a tune. Is there anything I have missed out on, or should add/remove?

I already have a Plazmaman FFP manifold, fuel rail, PRP LS alternator, 6 boost manifold, GTX3076 Gen 2 w/60mm Turbosmart gate, NZWiring CAS and R35 GTR coils. 

Will I be able to reuse my Plazmaman fuel rail which is on my Series 2 at the moment, or is a neo rail different (two different part numbers, I'm guessing yes). 

Would a stock gearbox handle 600rwhp for awhile if not driven aggressively? 

Thank you :)

Edited by Blakeo
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Who is your tuner / getting the engine built through

Can I ask why a neo instead of a normal rb25? sounds like you have an s2 in there already. If its for the solid head great and all but not really needed alot of tough non neo rb25s going around

I this going to be for a street or track car ? sounds like the street if so gotta ask yourself if 500 maybe 550hp is enough ? at 500 with a good condition stock engine with all the good bolt on bits, headgasket, headstuds and cams it should be able to last a fair long while. Not telling you how to spend your money btw 

Good list but you forgot cams unless i missed it - poncams will do the job - Kelford better and get matching springs

Also intercooler and rad should be good 

The GTX3076 at 550 will be OK at 600 pushing it ( in real life). I have all that stuff and a GTX3582 Gen ll at 25/26 psi ish gets me 635 rwhp so you'll be pushing 2 bar with the 3076 to get 600hp 

Stock box might or might not handle that power for a while but basically its gonna go - and then you have to find a new one or get a ppg or similar for $ but also whats the points in having 600 rwhp if you arent gonna give it herbs to save the gearbox?

 

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On 2/10/2021 at 11:07 PM, Blakeo said:

Injector Dynamics 1300cc injectors (bit expensive but my tuner recommended them): $1,700

This is very expensive. Equivalents should not cost much more than $1100. Like

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/bosch-1650cc-short-fuel-injector~120071

Which are not the same size, but about the same thing. Perhaps you have to pay $20-30 more per injector for a matched set. Still a lot cheaper.

On 2/10/2021 at 11:07 PM, Blakeo said:

PRP rear head drain: $360.00

This is not really required. It will help, but there are better ways to do it. Read the last 100 pages of the oil control thread for the consensus.

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17 hours ago, bcozican said:

Who is your tuner / getting the engine built through

Can I ask why a neo instead of a normal rb25? sounds like you have an s2 in there already. If its for the solid head great and all but not really needed alot of tough non neo rb25s going around

I this going to be for a street or track car ? sounds like the street if so gotta ask yourself if 500 maybe 550hp is enough ? at 500 with a good condition stock engine with all the good bolt on bits, headgasket, headstuds and cams it should be able to last a fair long while. Not telling you how to spend your money btw 

Good list but you forgot cams unless i missed it - poncams will do the job - Kelford better and get matching springs

Also intercooler and rad should be good 

The GTX3076 at 550 will be OK at 600 pushing it ( in real life). I have all that stuff and a GTX3582 Gen ll at 25/26 psi ish gets me 635 rwhp so you'll be pushing 2 bar with the 3076 to get 600hp 

Stock box might or might not handle that power for a while but basically its gonna go - and then you have to find a new one or get a ppg or similar for $ but also whats the points in having 600 rwhp if you arent gonna give it herbs to save the gearbox?

 

Hey mate, which gearbox do you run to handle your power? 

Will stock cams not do it for 600hp? 

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9 hours ago, Blakeo said:

Hey mate, which gearbox do you run to handle your power? 

Will stock cams not do it for 600hp? 

Mine is a track only car doing time attack/ sprints. Im in w.a also

I ran a stock box at up to 480 - 550hp for about 2 years before it went. Then ran ppg dog box 550 - 635 it was fine. Now sequential

Its usually 3rd to 4th gear changes that'll kill em so smoother/ touch slower through there will help

 

Stock cams may do it cant say tbh as ive always had poncams now kelfords but they would help for sure.

Also your spending 20k on an engine etc to get the good stuff as much as it hurts add cams  now and if you take few things out as per above the price is nearly covered anyway . Just a thgt

 

I used to run ID1000s to 550hp when needed to go bigger now use the bosch moto 1650s as above and the fine

 

Edited by bcozican
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19 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

This is very expensive. Equivalents should not cost much more than $1100. Like

ID injectors are bloody expensive, but they are statically and dynamically flow matched.

Buying a set from Taarks or whatever they are not matched at all. Best solution I found was to buy the Bosch ones as mentioned from somewhere like Golebys, pay and extra $100 and they will match up a set for you. Still cheaper than the ID route.

Also regarding head drain, check out the Franklin engineering one. I think it is superior and cheaper than the PRP setup.

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