Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register

Recommended Posts

Not sure if this is a dumb question, or not but would an r33 gtr rear windscreen upper moulding fit a gts/t. Have sourced one for $45 but is for Gtr, which is weird seeing other gts/t ones I’ve found are considerably more $ . Also says It’s oem? $45 seems cheap for oem and gtr. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance!

Edited by Codymateee
Link to post
Share on other sites

79752-22U00 is the part for rear windscreen upper outer moulding. It is the same on coupes R33 GTR or gts. About $100 AUD from Amayama.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Topics

  • Latest Posts

    • it will be a switch to turn your Speed sensor wire on or off. so you can use the TV,DVD,USB videos and other things when driving.
    • Hi, I am new to the forum and have just bought a 2008 skyline 370GT Coupe. I have had a cruise control fitted that is like factory, installed by Autostrada Brisbane.  Next I wanted everything in English, including maps, so I found that there was a guy in Estonia doing this conversion for about $1400. I went ahead and here is my story, hoping that it saves interested people a lot of time and hassle. Cheers John  I recently purchased a new (refurbished) head unit that is fully English (Australian), with maps and all, from a an Ebay site in Estonia. I also got a new English keypad with it. A guy by the name of Simon was my ebay purchase contact. My car is a 2008 370GT Skyline. The unit cost me nearly $1400 but I think it was worth it. If you can't find the exact unit on ebay then just find one like it from Russia and contact the seller and tell him what you want. He will most likely be able to meet your need. The unit only took less than 3 wks to get to me. Then the fun started. It did not come with any instructions, so I searched how to replace a head unit on a Skyline but nothing came up, so I looked for "How to remove the head unit from a 2008 Infinity G37" and got what I needed. Here are the steps for those who want to know: 1. There is some metal trim on the top of the leather gear stick boot. Pull it down from the base of the gear shift and remove the clip that holds the gear knob on, don't lose it! And remove the gear knob. 2. Use a right angled needle pick at the rear corner of the trim around the gearstick. It can be difficult to avoid marking the trim of you use a screw driver. This piece of trim looks like brushed aluminium. Put the pick in the small corner gap where it meets the black plastic trim, and pry the corner up, so you can dislodge it and then pull that section up. Put the gearstick into drive by putting your finger under the trim piece, that you are wanting to remove, and push the white plastic slide down that stops you moving the gear leaver back to "drive". If you don't know where that trigger is then you can still get the trim off without the gear stick in drive but once you know where it is then it makes life easier. Unplug the 2 plugs and remove that piece of trim. 3. Unscrew the 2 screws securing the bottom of the clock carrying piece of trim and pull it out from the bottom and pull downways to remove it. Unplug those connections and take that piece of trim off. 4. Unscrew the 2 screws securing the vented piece of trim that surrounds the screen and lift that whole piece of trim out. 5. Unscrew the 2 silver screws that secure the screen to the mounting bracket, pull that screen piece out and unplug it and remove the screen altogether. 6. Locate the white slide that you have to push down to select drive position with the gear stick. It is just to the right and ahead of the gearstick, so that you can get the head unit out without destroying the trim. Unscrew the 2 silver screws that secure the lower part of the head unit and pull the head unit straight back and out. In doing so you are in danger of damaging the black soft trim, be extra careful. Now you can begin to unplug the back of the head unit. You now need to completely remove head unit. Put your driver's seat well forward to help you look down over the back of the head unit and with a screw driver depress the tangs on the plugs and pull them out. It can be challenging with some plugs to see just how to do that. Keep the head unit straight, or you will damage the black trim for sure. You could cover the edge of the soft black trim with a few layers of quality masking tape to help keep it safe, otherwise you are going to kick yourself for negligence. I damaged mine, regardless of how careful I tried to be. I will use black Sikaflex to repair it. I have used that before to repair a damaged steering wheel on my WRX. It is terribly messy stuff but if you wear a pair of washing up gloves so you can work with it and get the desired finish. Do not use surgical cloves that you can't detach from Sikaflex once you get it on them. Keep Sikaflex in the freezer or it will harden in the tube before long. I seal it best I can with a plastic membrane under the nozzle and put it in a plastic bag in the bottom of the freezer and have kept a tube for 2 years, otherwise it might only last a couple of weeks. It is expensive and you usually only need a little at a time. It is most useful for many things as it dries to a very strong rubber that is like engine mounts. I have actually successfully used it to refabricate an exhaust mount on one of my cars. 7. Once you have removed the head unit, replace the keypad with the English labelled unit. It is secured to the vent piece of trim that surrounds the screen. 8. Remove the mounting frame from the old unit with its piggy back connections and fit it to the new head unit. 9. Now begins the challenge, so you can get it right first time J. I conquered after 6 attempts. I had to figure out just how to match the plugs up with the new, very differently oriented, reprogrammed for Australia, head unit, that I was supplied with from Estonia. The confusing thing is that there are 2 sets of plugs that are the same on the factory loom and so you can hook the wrong ones up to the wrong places and if you do so all sorts of funny things will start to happen to your car's lights and fans and starting circuit etc. First up, identify the top 2 main white plugs that come out near the top of the old loom. They have yellow bands around the plastic sheathing of those plugs. These go to the top of the head unit's piggy back, nowhere else! You can plug them in last if you want. There are 2 identical white plugs lower down that go into the top 2 positions on the head unit proper but there are 2 other smaller white plugs that plug into the head unit below them. Plug them in first and then plug the ones that go above after that. There are also some plugs that go to the bottom line of sockets on the new unit. You will still have about 3 plugs from the old loom that go nowhere, once you change the head unit. Push them out of the way so that they don't stop you pushing the head unit fully home after you have plugged it all back together. Then there are 2 plugs that need to change sides: A blue plug that must change sides and plug into a tail that comes with the Estonian set up. This tail plugs in at the top of the head unit near the driver (right hand side). This is the one that gives you your info on the screen, otherwise you will just have a blank screen come up. I missed this one every time and so only had a blank screen. There is a brownish plug that also changes sides, now going to the left of the new unit. There are 2 smaller plugs that go to the lower right (driver's side) of the head unit. There is also a plug that has a female USB on the end that has to be located somewhere on the dash, or in the clove box or wherever you choose, that plugs in at the top left passenger's side of the head unit. 10. This should about do it for you. I don't think I have left anything out except to say that you need to arrange the wires with the new harness as best you can to allow you to be able to push the head unit back enough to get it remounted securely. It can't sit out into the car at all, or you won't get the clock trim back on. 11. Secure the head unit at the bottom first with the 2 silver screws and then refit the screen over it at the top and secure both the head unit and the screen together with the other 2 silver screws. 12. Refit the vent trim and secure it with the 2 black screws. 13. Refit the clock trim and plug in the broad ribbon plug and the 2 other plugs, Now secure the clock trim with it's 2 black screws. 14. Refit the final gear stick trim. Refit the gear knob and its clip and clip up the leather boot. Your done. I hope it all works for you. Cheers, you now pretty well have an Infinity G37. 
    • I believe the hazard switch is before the stalk, so could be broken connection between them. But as GTSBoy said, multimeter poking is required.
  • Create New...