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IM-32-FK

Best aftermarket ECU for rb25det

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13 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

That is for card AFMs like R35 ones.

And no, you cannot cut up a plastic AFM (ie, Z32) and weld it to metal.

Shit you’re right, they’re not even expensive $253 brand new genuine. Can it actually be done in practice or is it just a theory. I mean with the wiring and all, do you know how to do it?

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6 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

Can it actually be done in practice or is it just a theory. I mean with the wiring and all, do you know how to do it?

It's trivial if the ECU can be adjusted to suit. ie Nistune.

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16 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

Oh yeah, how long are you in Sydney for? Also have u got the wide band, intake temp sensor, pigtail etc?

and how many days will it all take you reckon?

maybe we can work something out where I can leave my car with you and u can install everything like turbo, walbro, injectors etc. I still need to v band the dump pipe and get pipe made or the turbo elbow part and a turbo intake pipe made

Well this has escalated quickly lol. While yes I could install all those parts, it would be much quicker  to have a workshop do it. 

If you had the car ready to go, I'd have it road tuned in a day no problem. 

With the wideband and air temp sensor, they'd be permanently installed in the car and need to be there before it's tuned. 

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17 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Well this has escalated quickly lol. While yes I could install all those parts, it would be much quicker  to have a workshop do it. 

If you had the car ready to go, I'd have it road tuned in a day no problem. 

With the wideband and air temp sensor, they'd be permanently installed in the car and need to be there before it's tuned. 

Yeh I’ll probably do that all myself , a workshop would charge thousands for that, I thought maybe u can do mates rates.

but that honestly sounds good, have u got the wideband and air temp sensor?

how long are u gonna be in Sydney for?

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22 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

Have u got the wideband and air temp sensor

I have a spare brand new Haltech / GM fast response air temp sensor and connector here if you need it.

The Haltech WB1 wideband is about $400 from memory.

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Posted (edited)

Guys I said f**k it and bought a nistune for $350. The guy I bought it off didn’t have a case for it, I was wondering if any non neo ecu case eg 33 ecu will house the neo motherboard and nistune chip nice and snug. I only ask cause neo ecu‘a usually go for $150+ and r33 ecus are only $50.

also unrelated question: is the oil pan bolt meant to have a rubber washer on it? Cause mine just have a metal washer ‘welded’ on the bolt. And I only ask cause my oil pan seems to have oil residue all over it.

134E6131-EF3C-4961-8FFF-85CD079BE8E7.jpeg

Edited by IM-32-FK
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If it's the same as the RB26 the copper washer is going to be stuck to the bolt pretty well, you want to use a knife or a something to pry it out before replacing it. You're supposed to orient the washer as seen in this diagram for a 370Z: 8nQ0Pk4.png

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Just now, IM-32-FK said:

Why not? 

Coz it don't fit. Different mounting points inside, different loom plug opening.

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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Coz it don't fit. Different mounting points inside, different loom plug opening.

Ah okay. I can drill new holes for the mounting points but is the loom plug opening smaller or bigger than the neo? Cause either way I can grind it to be bigger and it doesn’t matter if the 33 ecu opening is bigger, if it leaves a gap that’s not a problem

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If you're going to that much effort (ie, buying an R33 ECU just for a case that you then have to modify), either just fold your own up out of 1.2mm sheet steel/ally or put it in a plastic kitchen storage box.

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17 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

If it's the same as the RB26 the copper washer is going to be stuck to the bolt pretty well, you want to use a knife or a something to pry it out before replacing it. You're supposed to orient the washer as seen in this diagram for a 370Z: 

Actually the standard OEM sump washer is not a copper washer but an aluminium single use crush washer, that's why it goes one way. Large side goes towards the sump.

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19 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

If you're going to that much effort (ie, buying an R33 ECU just for a case that you then have to modify), either just fold your own up out of 1.2mm sheet steel/ally or put it in a plastic kitchen storage box.

If I’m to do that, is it okay for the bolt and nut to be in contact with the ecu? I just don’t want it surging or shorting out. I was thinking u can get those raised plastic cylinder things to act as a spacer between the ecu and the nut and bolt

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