Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


HELP wiring WB1 can with platinum pro


Recommended Posts

Just want to make sure I have this right before I put power to the car. Notice in the instructions and what they sent me, the difference is the pigtail coming out the wb1 can for the actual wideband sensor vs  in the instructions there is no pigtail only the 4 pin ports.....I have ordered the can box extension as I figured I would need it to run the haltech screen through a can port. I know I should of got an elite but I got what I got and want to make it work so please only helpful comments just wanna get my car started!

C88A7D1A-2992-473C-89F5-F9AFC294306C.jpeg

2946A36C-F724-4766-8E1C-C905E2CCB5FD.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or do I actually have it right and I can use that extra port for another CAN system like my screen? I feel like there is another way to run the haltech screen I see some guys do it through a obd2 port on newer cars, maybe there’s a way to wire to the pins on the auxiliary port. Just a little help I’m a total newb with this haltech stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everything looks right in the photo of your setup. 

The WB1 has 2 CAN ports on it so you can daisy-chain it with other CAN devices. You could use the second CAN port to connect your dash. 

You'll only run into issues when you want to install an additional device, say an I/O box, then you'll need a CAN hub. 

Just so you know, the Haltech CAN hub works with the Platinum Pro (this thing https://www.haltech.com/tag/can-hub/). I don't know if you ordered the can box because you thought the hub wouldn't work with the platinum ecu.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Everything looks right in the photo of your setup. 

The WB1 has 2 CAN ports on it so you can daisy-chain it with other CAN devices. You could use the second CAN port to connect your dash. 

You'll only run into issues when you want to install an additional device, say an I/O box, then you'll need a CAN hub. 

Just so you know, the Haltech CAN hub works with the Platinum Pro (this thing https://www.haltech.com/tag/can-hub/). I don't know if you ordered the can box because you thought the hub wouldn't work with the platinum ecu.

first thanks alot that was a gangster answer. dude this is so crazy that you send this because i accidently ordered the one for the elite like the one you posted, then got mad that i ordered the wrong one and ordered the can box for the platinum haha. so i have both. i am such a  newb but definitely learning. i couldn't of asked for a better answer your a hell of a chap mate 5 gold stars for you goof fella. thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't run the haltech WB but I do have platinum pro, io expander (because you need it for e85 sensor in RBs), can expander, smartwire, IC3 and IQ7 dash. As I understand it the only trick with the WB module is you need to use a separate 12v and earth due to the current the WB heater draws, whereas all other CAN devices can run off the internal ECU power supply (which is why they supply that adapter cable with the 12v and earth running off them.

Yes the CAN plug is different from Plat Pro to Elite, but if you put the adapter first (as you have above in the pic), I'm pretty sure you can then run the more convenient Elite style CAN hub with the DTM-4 connectors; the protocol is the same only the plugs are different. And yes, when you order IC7 you can choose either OBD (which you don't have with Plat Pro unless you've added it) or Haltech CAN (DTM-4)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

first thanks alot that was a gangster answer. dude this is so crazy that you send this because i accidently ordered the one for the elite like the one you posted, then got mad that i ordered the wrong one and ordered the can box for the platinum haha. so i have both. i am such a  newb but definitely learning. i couldn't of asked for a better answer your a hell of a chap mate 5 gold stars for you goof fella. thanks

No worries mate! 

I've always found Haltech to be very good, I bet if you speak with them they'll refund/exchange the CAN box you don't need. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 15/03/2021 at 3:11 PM, Duncan said:

I don't run the haltech WB but I do have platinum pro, io expander (because you need it for e85 sensor in RBs), can expander, smartwire, IC3 and IQ7 dash. As I understand it the only trick with the WB module is you need to use a separate 12v and earth due to the current the WB heater draws, whereas all other CAN devices can run off the internal ECU power supply (which is why they supply that adapter cable with the 12v and earth running off them.

Yes the CAN plug is different from Plat Pro to Elite, but if you put the adapter first (as you have above in the pic), I'm pretty sure you can then run the more convenient Elite style CAN hub with the DTM-4 connectors; the protocol is the same only the plugs are different. And yes, when you order IC7 you can choose either OBD (which you don't have with Plat Pro unless you've added it) or Haltech CAN (DTM-4)

thanks again duncan. cheers always a good help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i am now trying to find out the best power wire to tap into for the red 12v wire coming out the wb1 i was thinking of using my old maf power wire. any suggestions?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 15/03/2021 at 3:11 PM, Duncan said:

I don't run the haltech WB but I do have platinum pro, io expander (because you need it for e85 sensor in RBs), can expander, smartwire, IC3 and IQ7 dash. As I understand it the only trick with the WB module is you need to use a separate 12v and earth due to the current the WB heater draws, whereas all other CAN devices can run off the internal ECU power supply (which is why they supply that adapter cable with the 12v and earth running off them.

Yes the CAN plug is different from Plat Pro to Elite, but if you put the adapter first (as you have above in the pic), I'm pretty sure you can then run the more convenient Elite style CAN hub with the DTM-4 connectors; the protocol is the same only the plugs are different. And yes, when you order IC7 you can choose either OBD (which you don't have with Plat Pro unless you've added it) or Haltech CAN (DTM-4)

also duncan can you post a link to which smart wire you bought and harness. i am going to purchase that racepack smart wire box from haltech and harness i just don't know which smart wire harness i need. and also if you have any suggestions on where you picked up power with that 12v source wire coming out the wb1, cheers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

pretty sure the MAF is 5v not 12 so NFG. Also pretty sure haltech stopped selling smartwire because they sell nexus now, and dont support their old products. you should be able to get one more eaily from racepack in the us anyway.

I don't know how much power the WB heater draws. I used a separate 10a circuit from the smartwire which is of no use to you :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When the wideband sensor is cold, from memory it pulls about 2 amps to warm up quickly then drops right off when it's up to temperature. 

I just threw a fused relay in the boot (so on ignition, the wideband gets battery voltage), it's been happily feeding my wideband for years without issue.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i just picked up 12v from the cigarettte lighter power wire see how that works for now till i get some fancier stuff setup in my trunk. thanks again let me know if this was a bad idea im pretty sure that cigarette power wire is good to go for a 12v source. ran the ground to a bolt by the shifter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, BK said:

No worries it's fused at 15A on cig

hey ben long time. yeah i figured that would be fine good to get some conformation tho.  ive almost got this stupid car finished. tig welding and crap taking me forever but ill get there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • So….. I’ve replaced all the coils and made sure I have a spark by fitting a spark plug to one of the new coils and cranking the engine. I’ve ensured I have fuel by removing what I assume is the ‘return to tank’ fuel line and cranking the engine. So I have a spark and fuel and the car still won’t run. Any ideas? may be time to get an auto electrician out! 
    • EFI Solutions aka Taarks have a great kit just for that. Better to have facts/data before making a decision. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/exhaust-pressure-sensor-pulse-damper-emap
    • I'm not sure why you removed the sound deadener???  Don't bother with DIY remedies... this is how you can do it properly. For the lightly stained areas, just stick to a fine grade wet sand paper....and then paint over once the stain is gone. For the worst areas...especially the pitted ones...you just need to sand the rust in the localised spot working down from a heavier grit to medium grit wet sandpaper, which will get most of the rust off. It's just localised rust from the spare wheel touching the boot. Don't go to town on sanding the whole boot...not needed! Try to avoid sanding the seam sealer etc (obviously) After the rust spots are down to bare metal - use a fine brush dipped in "RUST DEOXIDISER"...and carefully apply this to the little rust areas. It's important the chemical you use is DEOXIDISER. After applying that, let it sit for a while and obviously wipe off with prepsol before it dries, and repeat 3-4 times. If you go to a panel shop they will probably be able to sell you some - as the trade products are a shitload stronger than retail products. After deoxidising the rust, scuff the surrounding paint with red scotch brite....& then you are ready to apply etch primer and then paint the matte gray colour on. Mask up the surrounding area using tape & paper..... as you don't need to paint the whole boot, just blend it in and keep the repair as small as possible. Spray can paint or spray gun depending on your level of expertise will be fine. Probably will cost you about $100-$150 in materials.  
    • Interesting. The 30/900 looks right on paper but weather it gives me enough headroom is the question. I dont have a pressure sensor in the exhaust manifold so I won't know if I have a restriction unfortunately.
    • It depends if your current turbine is a restriction or not, if it is go up to the 35, it’s it’s not then stick the 30. Also the g30 turbine wheel will flow more then your gt30 one either way you go the compressor wheel is going walk away from your current turbo 
×
×
  • Create New...