Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25neo starts but stalls immediately


Recommended Posts

The car will start up but stall immediately it will not hold an idle unless I put my foot down on the accelerator and hold revs, unsure why this has happened the car has been sitting there for a few months and the only thing that has been changed is the coil pack harness, I have tried to put the old one back in but still the same problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Con333 said:

car was running fine a few hours before?

 

44 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

More info please.

 

10 minutes ago, Con333 said:

the only thing that has been changed is the coil pack harness, I have tried to put the old one back in but still the same problem?

Oh.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

so just to be clear, did anything else change?

 

you did the coil harness without removing any other component at all? Didn't accidentally unplug other plugs?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just checked the vac hoses they are all good there are a few wires that have been hacked up by the previous owner if you know what any of them are maybe I pulled one out without taking notice?

 

skyline.jpg

Edited by Con333
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 18/03/2021 at 3:46 PM, Con333 said:

Just checked the vac hoses they are all good there are a few wires that have been hacked up by the previous owner if you know what any of them are maybe I pulled one out without taking notice?

 

skyline.jpg

That could easily be your TPS (Throttle position sensor) wiring. 

You've got the exact same symptoms as my 34, however I had changed the fuel pump a week or so before, and so when I was troubleshooting, the fuel pump didn't even cross my mind. Ended up being the main hose connected to the top of the fuel pump literally had a hole in it, so all the pressure was gone, as I had done a dodgey DIY job with a hose clamp, had to pull it back out, re- clamp the hose so it was a solid connection, been in for over a year now and hasn't skipped a beat.

If you've done anything fuel related, look at that shit hey. 

(Also, that plug at the bottom of that pic looks to be the main harness plug I'm guessing, looks same as mine. Maybe check the polarity of your TPS, and even check the polarity of each cable there in that pic, make sure connection is solid all way through each end of those cables. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe I used the wrong sandwich plate as well. Used one piece instead of two piece.  
    • Y'know what, after reading a topic on a 360kw build using a nistune (who ended up going LINK), im now considering a LINK over a nistune. The engine protection alone would probably be worth it. And id like to learn to tune so would be nice to have that safe guard. Which means i probably wont need a boost controller then, or the R35 MAF.  Becoming a bit of a blog now but oh wells. As mentioned previously, the goal is around 300kw, for a daily driver. Will be looking at fitting a highflow turbo or similar (something that doesnt require downpipes, manifolds etc to be changed out) when the current stock gives out or the money for it is there. 
    • Thanks guys. Are you meant to tighten the converter bolts through the starter motor hole? Think my plate between gearbox and engine is one piece. Im heading up there tomorrow.
    • Picked my tailshaft up yesterday arv!! Test fit it and because they've gone to a ford centre bearing and CV I had to modify the mounting bracket a little bit. 5mm of each side and she went up into position and fits well. It has a 1350 uni and flange on the gearbox end so it should be plenty strong!  Got stuck in this morning and started on the wiring mess. Cut out all the wires not required that go to the body connector and cut the engine harness out. Need to go through and work out which ones I need to keep and rewire into the new ecu. Should save a small amount of weight as well. I'd love to get in and rip the dash and everything out to completely remove wiring but cbf.  Next up was the power harness for alternator, starter etc. It has a few connectors from factory that run out of it. Cut it all apart and removed what was no longer required and put some new corro and taped it all back up and bolted it all back into place.  After that I worked out where I can mount the new flex sensor. Found a couple of factory bolt holes and drilled a new hole on the bracket to suit. Need to go get a few fittings and adapters tomorrow so I can keep going.   
    • Nah, im after the more newer looking, one with the OLED display
×
×
  • Create New...