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FYI largest oil filter that fits R33 RB25DET .


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Does bigger oil filter = better?

also some guy on this forum I forgot who, said Ryco oil filters perform subpar after doing tests on various oil filters.You can get OEM Nissan ones for like $20.

 

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Yes as above. I'm curious Adrian on why you have decided to go out in search of different filter sizes or alternatives to standard ? Why on earth do I want a physically bigger oil filter on my car ?

Show me the last time a RB engine went into complete filter bypass because the standard Nissan oil filter oil capacity or filtration ability was not adequate. If filter bypass is your concern the engine in question would be rooted anyway.

Sounds like a solution to a problem that never existed ?

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I boight a black HKS one (purely coz i like the way it looked haha), but i'm not happy with the way it only screws on about 1 1/2turns. Feel like it should screw on more than that. 
It's my first RB, can anyone comment on whether the OEM or similar screws on more than that? 🤔

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I can continue if there is some genuine interest .

Firstly to the haters , if not interested go vent somewhere else . Basically - f**k off .

I've had my R33 since 2008 , aways though the std filter was smallish . Honestly I've never had lubrication issues with this car and you probably won't if you change your oil and filter at around 5K .

I converted to Japanese cars back in 1989 and they happened to be Bluebirds with an L20B four pot . Many people I knew from then , including one rally based workshop , lived and breathed cars with L Series engines from 1600s to 280Zs and MR/DR30s . Many used Z115 filters .

In the mid late 80s later engines turned up like KAs CAs SRs RBs etc and oil filters started to shrink . In fact since these and other Japanese engines were around the filters shrunk even more . Heaps of people over the years noticed that filters they were buying with the same part number got smaller . I sure the service and parts suppliers told you all that filters were getting smaller and more "efficient" . I call bullshit . I reckon its more to do with bean counter cost savings and "green" reasons than anything else .

IMO reasons for smaller filters , cheaper to manufacture/store/transport and throw away crush/dispose .  

So why did I fit this Z115 , simple . More filter area . Fits no mods or special tools . If anything easier to grip and get at because its a bit longer . Owes me $17 . Has anti drain back and no internal bypass - like OE .

Where's the down side ?

Lastly go look at the std replacement filter for an R35 GTR , f**k that .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 18/03/2021 at 11:20 AM, Ben C34 said:

Have you cut it opened qnd measured the surface area of the filter element?

So have you ? Your whole reasoning to wanting a bigger filter is coming back to implying that the standard RB filter is inadequate.

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If you mean Z115 yep , we were gutting them 30 years ago . No one bothered with 145s because they were considered to be a small 4 cylinder filter . Actually Datto A series engines from memory used longer versions of the 145 .

Inadequate is questionable , I see no reason not to make the situation better . 

Some people will tell you that what is considered overkill now was once called over engineering .

Anyway I didn't come here for an argument , just to say what was doable . To each their own .

 

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It's an interesting find and thanks for sharing. I also could not believe the size, when I first replaced mine. Looks like something from a Mazda Demio. Tempting to try it.

But looking at the seal diameter the Z145A, which, according to Supercheap is the correct one, is 63mm and the Z115 is 70mm. I have not measured the mating face, but presume you have and their is no chance of it extruding out.

I wonder if modern filters are made in such a way that there is more surface area, that is how they reduce the size. I see the K&N one is even smaller.

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I did put a thread up in the forced induction section .

Long short . I measured the OE oil filter mounting base at around 71.5-72mm , this was with a hardly exacting plastic Vernier calliper . I also got in behind that mounting flange with a telescopic small mirror and the Z115s seal is fully supported and cannot blow out . This is on a 96 model R33 GTS25T . I've got around 500 km on that filter and its clean as a whistle underneath - no leaks .

What I can say is that my OE oil pressure gauge appears to be showing slightly higher hot idling oil pressure . I don't know how accurate these are but it looks good for a 200K old never been out donk .

For a highly modified engine ie with higher volume pumps and using higher viscosity oil (than say 10W40) and high revs , over kill on the filter probably isn't a bad idea . 

One of the attack squad from the other thread mentioned something about the system going into "full bypass" or not . Unless I've missed something obvious I'd like to know how you tell - other than finding a bypass valve with a stuffed spring .  Back in the L Series days we used to rebuild engines with the bypass valve removed and the hole threaded and plugged . With regular oil and filter changes it was no issue  . Also in those days most engines used 20W50 grade oil .

I don't believe in "modern" thinking with tiny filters - particularly with these extended oil drain periods ie 15-25000 km . The best oil in the world still has to absorb crud over time and small filters can only trap so much As I mentioned somewhere go look at the filter on an R35 GTR . I haven't checked out OE but the Ryco replacement is from memory a Z411 , tiny for an engine like that . Z411 is the suggested one for Mitsy engines like say a 4G69 in Lancers and Outlanders , and sadly 4G63Ts . No way I'm using that on my Evo 6 .

Anyway to each their own .

A . 

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Modern engines tend to have reduced need for oil filtration because the OEM spec air filters tend to let less dirt and sand into the engine, less of it makes its way into the oil filter. Better understanding of how to keep engines from wearing prematurely from a materials perspective and a design perspective also means less wear particles on average. Also a full flow filter like that is never going to filter out soot in the oil.

Of course if you plan to run your engine like a long haul diesel with 10+L of oil in the sump with very long oil change intervals then you should get a bypass filter. For a normal gasoline engine with a 5 quart sump and 8000-12000 km oil change intervals it's more work than it's worth. The long haul diesel crowd uses those systems because they're stretching OCIs as far as 40,000 km or even higher because any time spent changing oil means you aren't making money and those engines have like 38L or more oil per oil change. 

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Yes I've read about modern engines being supposedly so much cleaner too . The thing is that any garbage that gets past the air filter has to pass things like pistons and rings so if its crunchy it doing damage before it gets to the crank case and oil .

I think the cleaner bit comes from running leaner air fuel ratios so less semi liquified carbon/soot etc going down past piston rings and into the oil . This would be a big issue for early diesel engines which were dirty things anyway . No doubt this led to having a full flow and a bypass oil filter . For those that don't know bypass filters are those with finer elements intended to have a low flow rate via a restrictor . They can't be used in a normal full flow application because they don't pass enough oil to lubricate the engine . This is a thread I looked at from the Nissan Patrol diesel crowd . https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/baldwin-b50-bypass-filter-oil-flow.81757/

Note that their intention was to extend oil drain periods ie from 5 to 10,000 km , you'd think for cost and convenience reasons . Interesting read if you have a bit of time and nothing else to do .

Something a bit more interesting is the "dual flow" filters which are supposed to act as a full flow and a bypass filter in one spin on cartridge . I think this is getting beyond what anyone here would need .

Anyway , my belief is that a larger capacity filter has more filter area and I reckon less resistance to flow through it .

At some stage I'll cut open and compare the elements of a 115 and a 145a . 

A .

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On 3/19/2021 at 12:24 PM, discopotato03 said:

I've had my R33 since 2008 , aways though the std filter was smallish . Honestly I've never had lubrication issues with this car and you probably won't if you change your oil and filter at around 5K .

I've had my R32 since last century and it typically gets an oil change every 14 months/10-12k. And nothing bad is happening to it. 5000km oil changes are yet another paranoid fantasy.

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If you're changing oil that often I really would not be concerned about whether the oil filter is getting filled up or not, there's really no need to be changing oil that much in anything remotely modern unless you're tracking the car.

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