Prp trigger kit nightmare

[MoMnDadGTR]

Well I’ll keep this short and sweet. Keep in mind we have been at this for 3 days since we “started” the car as some of you may already know. We have tried absolutely everything to get this prp trigger kit to work with the platinum pro and no. I’ve gone back to stock cas and now running fine but still want to figure this before I run 35 psi I want to use the trigger kit again. I’ve posted some pictures below of the charts and you can see it clearly skipping reading a tooth. The cam hall sensor is fine it’s the crank sensor that’s going wanky. 3 mechanics and haltech think that the cherry sensor is simply failing and or broken and needs to be replaced. Brand new kit but I guess that don’t matter does it chaps. Any input much appreciated but seriously if you haven’t even ran a trigger kit don’t reply honestly I’ve heard enough fake crap just want legit crap from people like bk etc no point pretending you know when you don’t. Going nuts deadly on this one so dam it let’s come together and solve this. I realize I should of just bought an elite 2500 but that’s not the case here. Cheers if you have a prp trigger kit with a platinum pro set up in your gtr please send some input. Even if a shop has set it up for you like crd etc just a simple yeah it works fine with my car would even help. Because I’m hearing you have to wire in a 2.4k resistor on the sensor for it to work proper. But I’m sick of doing things I hear and want to do what’s right. There are no big shops here for rb’s I have to figure it out myself. Thanks looking for the big boys on this one. 

[r32-25t]

Turn the cam sensor bracket, the cam is triggering right near a tooth on the crank and the belt slack can cause it to either count an extra tooth in the cycle or miss a tooth in the cycle 

[robbo_rb180]

PM Sent
PRP really should supply quality instructions with these trigger kits like the coil kits. Surprised Haltech couldn't solve it.

[BK]

Yeah their trigger instructions are rubbish. I use the Ross trigger with the teeth on the balancer itself but they have absolutely no instructions at all ! As mentioned to you it absolutely wants the 2.4k resistor on a Platinum in both crank and cam home sensors, which is like turning pull up on with an Elite which does this within the ECU. 5-0 have pretty good instruction and is almost identical to the PRP design for your reference:

INST-RBTRIG Installation Manual - RB Twin Cam 24 1 Crank Trigger - Rev0.pdf

[MoMnDadGTR]

2 hours ago, BK said:

Yeah their trigger instructions are rubbish. I use the Ross trigger with the teeth on the balancer itself but they have absolutely no instructions at all ! As mentioned to you it absolutely wants the 2.4k resistor on a Platinum in both crank and cam home sensors, which is like turning pull up on with an Elite which does this within the ECU. 5-0 have pretty good instruction and is almost identical to the PRP design for your reference:

INST-RBTRIG Installation Manual - RB Twin Cam 24 1 Crank Trigger - Rev0.pdfUnavailable

well once again ben with the save. will touch base end of day see how we made out with this rubbish. cheers good mates new attitude today im gunna go crush this, solve this, and hammer down. 

[MoMnDadGTR]

i want to try wiring in the 2.4k resistors as i built this car to be fast and i dont really want to run the stock cas past 25ish psi.....i dunno i dont know anything much but i do know ive never had a cas fail yet on me......

[MoMnDadGTR]

well update. prp trigger kit is in the bin. stock cas for the win running like  dream.  prp trigger is shizza with a platinum pro get something with good instructions and never buy a platinum pro it is complete junk go straight for an elite 2500. that's what i have to say after all my headaches and sleepless nights trying to get this prp kit to0 work with a platinum and hearing my rb fart and piss with timing jumping around like a rabbit on crack and e85. the platinum is missing some good features and to me shoudlnt even be sold anymore. cheers mates im done with this build gunna go bag the snot out of it now. cheers

[iruvyouskyrine]

send me a pm i might buy the trigger kit 

[MoMnDadGTR]

im going to use it on my rb26 with an elite 2500, cheers mate.

 

[joshuaho96]

Don't feel too bad about struggling with these issues, understanding how circuits with transistors in them work is an entire upper division course for undergraduate electrical engineers.

[MoMnDadGTR]

6 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Don't feel too bad about struggling with these issues, understanding how circuits with transistors in them work is an entire upper division course for undergraduate electrical engineers.

yeah it was the weirdest thing chap. we had a consistent signal with the ecu cranking with injectors disabled. as soon as we unlock timing and enable injectors it up it would start quite easy actually. i would hold the timing gun on the crank pulley for about 15 seconds then the timing would go all crazy and it would loose its signal and die. we are going to try a new hall sensor hopefully the sensor was just stuffed. i know this would be a rare occurance but ive seen enough rare occurences on this car to not rule it out. cheers mate.

[MoMnDadGTR]

On 29/03/2021 at 3:15 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

PM Sent
PRP really should supply quality instructions with these trigger kits like the coil kits. Surprised Haltech couldn't solve it.

im going to give it a better crack today ive just been very busy with tree and trying to get my dyno building ready for the summer. im going to try a gates belt, re configure everything, new hall sensors, see if i can get the prp trigger kit to work. seems like the cas sensors can get hot and fail prematurely and im done with that issue as well. ive fried 2 cas already dont know if its from turbo heat, but i have a band new one on from kudo now and its working for now.

[MoMnDadGTR]

i also had a brand new walbro 450 pump completely crap out in less than 3000km of driving. it was failing slowly and the car couldnt deliver fuel uptop. i found a very hot relay in the back so i replaced the relay and a new pump. i used better external wire and a better relay and it seems to be ok. the relay still gets a little warm. i now have a second pump to stage in at 12 psi so we will see how that goes.

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 26/04/2021 at 9:18 PM, MoMnDadGTR said:

external wire and a better relay

just go full retard (excuse the use of the word retard in 2021, but it's only appropriate word to use here) and use a solid state relay instead.

[MoMnDadGTR]

11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

just go full retard (excuse the use of the word retard in 2021, but it's only appropriate word to use here) and use a solid state relay instead.

no worries mate this car makes me feel retarded everyday. heres a link to a relay i think will work. is everyone running solid state relays these days on there pumps? is there any other down side to these relays other than the cost? cost is never a issue to me if its a better option and is going to work better. we dont built 700hp cars trying to save money im pretty sure ha.

 

ESR10-NC2A4HB-00-D2-17A E-T-A | Relays | DigiKey

[MoMnDadGTR]

11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

just go full retard (excuse the use of the word retard in 2021, but it's only appropriate word to use here) and use a solid state relay instead.

remember im a dumb canadian trying to make a r32 gtr go vrooom its a daily struggle as im a visual learner so i usually have to break something, try something, or beg for help on sau till i get it right. thanks again brother your a good chap.

[BK]

33 minutes ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

no worries mate this car makes me feel retarded everyday. heres a link to a relay i think will work. is everyone running solid state relays these days on there pumps? is there any other down side to these relays other than the cost? cost is never a issue to me if its a better option and is going to work better. we dont built 700hp cars trying to save money im pretty sure ha.

 

ESR10-NC2A4HB-00-D2-17A E-T-A | Relays | DigiKey

That won't cut it for a fuel pump. More like this on a heat sink.

HT-030202_IS.pdf

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I run a single SSR for two Wallahbro 450L pumps

https://www.jaycar.com.au/solid-state-relay-4-32vdc-input-30vdc-100a-switching/p/SY4086

They are rebranded Crydom ones Jaycar sells here in Australia.

 

@BK funnily enough, if you don't use them for PWM (and only as an on/off relay) they stay pretty cold, but as soon as you start PWM boy do they heat up.

I run the exact heatsink on my setup to keep it cool.

[BK]

13 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I run a single SSR for two Wallahbro 450L pumps

https://www.jaycar.com.au/solid-state-relay-4-32vdc-input-30vdc-100a-switching/p/SY4086

They are rebranded Crydom ones Jaycar sells here in Australia.

 

@BK funnily enough, if you don't use them for PWM (and only as an on/off relay) they stay pretty cold, but as soon as you start PWM boy do they heat up.

I run the exact heatsink on my setup to keep it cool.

Yeah I thought the Haltech ones were Crydom relays since they look identical. That's good to hear you are running 2 pumps via a single PWM 100A relay and was working well. 👍

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I love PWM pumps, no need to stage them and with staging pumps you see a momentary spike in fuel pressure as the 2nd one comes on.

On logs it shows a potential issue but in real world driving you won't notice anything. So practically staging is completely fine, just in theory it isn't so.

DYOR lol.