Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Lost power steering


Recommended Posts

Hi team

So my R32 has a lock bar in the rear, and recently changed out the power steering pump for a non hicas one.

At first my steering was mildly heavier but still workable. After a short period (hours) i seem to have lost all power steering... 🙃

 

Any ideas what to start looking for?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The HICAS CU controls power steering. It might be unhappy with you disconnecting HICAS solenoids. If that's the case, it's not insurmountable. I have completely removed all HICAS hardware from my car except the CU. Many years prior to that, because of a steering sensor fault, I just disconnected the smaller of the two plugs on the CU. That prevented the steering sensor fault from putting the HICAS into lockout (which wasn't a good place to be, trust me!) and kept the light off the dash. The HICAS CU still appears to be happy with the situation many years since removing the rest of the hardware. So I suggest you try disconnecting that plug first.

But there are other ways that the power steering can die. I once had my oxygen sensor die with a short in the power wire that runs its heating element. That power wire runs in the same loom next to the wire running down to the steering rack, and that wire got damaged by the loom short and I lost assistance. Dead heavy. Real hard to find the problem, but an easy fix once found. I'm sure there are other secret squirrel ways it can die.

You would be advised to start at the assistance solenoid on the rack and see what voltage is present, work backwards from there.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Zero power assistance is stupidly heavy and would need to be mechanical failure; belt off or no fluid in the system. I would guess you are not quite there and just have "very heavy" steering?

As above, i would start by checking the power steering solenoid is getting its signal from the hicas brain. It is a pwm signal and you can probe it on a dedicated pin on the consult port - a bit more convenient than back probing the connector on the rack. If you have a scope you can see the pwm duty or just use dvm to measure the voltage. The workshop manual has a diagnostic procedure for this. Its a few years ago but from memory 30% duty or 4v is what you are looking for.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 4/15/2021 at 10:23 PM, J.sutton said:

Hi team

So my R32 has a lock bar in the rear, and recently changed out the power steering pump for a non hicas one.

At first my steering was mildly heavier but still workable. After a short period (hours) i seem to have lost all power steering... 🙃

 

Any ideas what to start looking for?

bruv dealing with a similar issue at a drift event ive had my 02 sensor fall onto my turbo and practically melt the thing into macaroni what exactly did you do to solve the issue of the burnt up wire for the rack ? my steering is dead heavy almost nonexistent 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/16/2021 at 12:02 AM, GTSBoy said:

The HICAS CU controls power steering. It might be unhappy with you disconnecting HICAS solenoids. If that's the case, it's not insurmountable. I have completely removed all HICAS hardware from my car except the CU. Many years prior to that, because of a steering sensor fault, I just disconnected the smaller of the two plugs on the CU. That prevented the steering sensor fault from putting the HICAS into lockout (which wasn't a good place to be, trust me!) and kept the light off the dash. The HICAS CU still appears to be happy with the situation many years since removing the rest of the hardware. So I suggest you try disconnecting that plug first.

But there are other ways that the power steering can die. I once had my oxygen sensor die with a short in the power wire that runs its heating element. That power wire runs in the same loom next to the wire running down to the steering rack, and that wire got damaged by the loom short and I lost assistance. Dead heavy. Real hard to find the problem, but an easy fix once found. I'm sure there are other secret squirrel ways it can die.

You would be advised to start at the assistance solenoid on the rack and see what voltage is present, work backwards from there.

 

bruv dealing with a similar issue at a drift event ive had my 02 sensor fall onto my turbo and practically melt the thing into macaroni what exactly did you do to solve the issue of the burnt up wire for the rack ? my steering is dead heavy almost nonexistent 

please forgive the double quote its my first time posting here any input is hugley appreciated

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Copy-paste of reply to PM.

The loom that contains the power wire for the O2 sensor also carries the PS wiring and when the power wire melted and burnt, it took out a couple of other wires in that loom, including the PS wiring. So, I just repaired the broken wires. Had to split the loom open and do a bit of surgery on a few wires.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Candid connections: Platform for casual relationships Authentic Maidens Supreme Сasual Dating
    • I would absolutely be starting with this idea over all other possibilities. It sounds f**ked.
    • Lighting in the shed looks real good! Not lying, have shed envy lol. Maybe one day I can fk off from Metro Sydney.
    • I would be cautious with those 2000/2200 CNG injectors, swap them out for a set of 1550 aka 1650 Bosch stainless ones before you take out a motor.
    • I tested them all a couple times, haven't tested it warm or wet though. The only seemingly really weird thing was the cylinders plug closest to the dash was pitch black nearly.  Doesn't smoke out of the exhaust or anything.    Also sorry everyone for the very late response. Got busy with work and all and didn't get around to fooling with the car for awhile.  But an update! I figured out the cause of the lean condition, my intercooler had at some point exploded or something. It's clearly separated in a spot with black oily buildup around the leak, and multiple leaks in various vacuum lines. I've replaced it and the vacuum lines, and gotten new clamps and there are 0 leaks now after doing a couple smoke tests.   The car now runs significantly better and the exhaust doesn't overheat anymore. I still have the main problem though where the engine feels like I'm lugging it around sub 3500rpm in any gear besides 1st, 2nd It's less noticeable but 3rd anything under 3.5k and I need to downshift or the engine is clearly struggling when trying to accelerate at all, 4th is the exact same, sub 3.5k engine won't accelerate and its hard to bring it back up to speed, 5th gear doesn't feel like the car is going to straight up fall apart now but it still can't pull 5th. It slowly loses speed and rpm and ANY gas I give I can feel the shakes from the engine and it slowly dying. If I ever so lightly give it gas it will slowly and nicely decel till around 2k rpm instead of lugging. But it cannot accelerate at all or maintain speed.   If I go from first gear at 5 or 6krpm and then shift to second it also feels like it's struggling to make power till above 3krpm if trying to accelerate but I can cruise around parking lots at around 1-2krpm just fine in 2nd. It's just when accelerating hard it and changing gear you really notice it die down.  But even if you shift at way lower rpms it does the same thing till somewhere above 3k.  As far as I'm aware it's got r32 gtr transmission gear ratios with gts4 diffs. The tire size is 205/55r16 91h Above 3500rpm the car pulls and runs and drives quite normally and the power from engine sounds and feels very smooth.  It's perfectly driveable at above 3.5krpm but I drive on the highway alot for work and it gets really bad gas mileage in 4th at 4.4krpm. Not that I'm looking for great gas mileage with such a car, just I'm sure being at around 3krpm would be significantly better for it.    Have appreciated all your guys help. I do understand the engine may just be f**ked from running with a boost leak though.    One final thing I'd like to add is I'm only shifting so high in the rpm range is because if I don't I will feel the engine lugging bad with 0 power in lower rpms, pretty much anytime off boost trying to accelerate it feels really bad.  Also when I say 3500 rpm I don't mean exactly. Just around there. 
×
×
  • Create New...