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'92 R32 gtst Coughing Idle, Hard Cold Start and Stall W/Clutch In

Hardcase
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Hardcase

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Car is hard to start when cold. just have to give it some gas. changed cold start valve did not help issue.

Car coughs at idle about every 1-3 seconds. cleaned and inspected IACV all clean and works. still not helping.

Car stalls with clutch pushed in when coming to a stop when cold. only happens 50% of the time.

Checked TPS all good and reset. 

Car is stock. Brand new OEM coil packs, new spark plugs, new OEM fuel pump and fuel filter. Confirmed no vacuum leaks.

MAF is clean. Idle does not hunt. wiggling the plug to MAF when car is on doesnt affect idle.

Throttle body is clean and cable tightened correctly.

I checked the forums here and what i said above is what people say will fix the issue. The coughing idle is what really bugs me. everything else i can live with.

Car is perfectly fine in every other regard no issues anywhere else.

No i cant just borrow parts from another skyline.

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Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Is the AAC valve blanked off or blocked off? they seem to fail quite a bit and most people just block them off to stop the high idle.

Consequence to this is pretty much what you're describing.

Another way around all this, convert to DBW and throw the IACV, AAC valves all into the bin ;) 

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Hardcase Rookie

Hardcase

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Is the AAC valve blanked off or blocked off? they seem to fail quite a bit and most people just block them off to stop the high idle.

Consequence to this is pretty much what you're describing.

Another way around all this, convert to DBW and throw the IACV, AAC valves all into the bin ;) 

No its not blocked off in any way

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Hardcase Rookie

Hardcase

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This stupid thing, it sits under your top part of your plenum. A karnt to remove/reach

Iacv Rb20

I just finished installing a brand new one of those today. It didnt help the problem. is blowing into it just making sure it starts to close and works?

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Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

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1 hour ago, Hardcase said:

I just finished installing a brand new one of those today. It didnt help the problem. is blowing into it just making sure it starts to close and works?

If the motor is cold, you should be able to blow into it, once it warms up it closes up.

When you unplug the O2 sensor does it idle better?

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Hardcase Rookie

Hardcase

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If the motor is cold, you should be able to blow into it, once it warms up it closes up.

When you unplug the O2 sensor does it idle better?

I forgot to mention that the O2 sensor is also brand new but i will try disconnecting it in the morning. Thanks for the help so far mate.

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BK Grand Master

BK

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7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

This stupid thing, it sits under your top part of your plenum. A karnt to remove/reach

Iacv Rb20

Hey @Dose Pipe Sutututu just to be clear that is an IAC valve, or air regulator valve as the manual calls it, not an AAC valve. The air regulator valve gets a constant 12v on it fed from fuel pump relay and the AAC is pulsed on the ground by the ECU to control the solenoid duty.

To test the air regulator valve as per the manual, without power the valve is only fully open at -20 deg. C, half open at 20 and fully closed at 60. If you 12v power them they are supposed to gradually close fully within 7 minutes. Resistance across terminals is 75ohm at 20c ambient.

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BK Grand Master

BK

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Yes it does exactly as I mentioned above. It is actually powered to heat up and close, not just engine temp. IACV is probably not a very correct name for it either, but it is certainly not the AAC valve which has the idle screw and solenoid on it as you would know.

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joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

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Should really be called the fast idle thermo valve, cold start air valve, or something similar that at least indicates that it's associated with cold start air regulation. My advice as I've been working through my own car is to get Nissan Datascan with a Consult cable and take logs when the car is misbehaving. You have to see what the ECU is seeing to understand why the engine is behaving the way it is. The ECU itself has very weak self-diagnostic capabilities, basically the only codes it throws are for things like open circuit/short circuit. All the sensor plausibility stuff is entirely on you to diagnose. How stable are AFRs when the engine stutters at idle? What does the MAF signal look like? Really meditate on the logs before you throw parts at the car. If you're suddenly losing consult cable connection during those drop-outs I would start suspecting the ECU or whatever is supplying power to the ECU.

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Hardcase

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4 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Should really be called the fast idle thermo valve, cold start air valve, or something similar that at least indicates that it's associated with cold start air regulation. My advice as I've been working through my own car is to get Nissan Datascan with a Consult cable and take logs when the car is misbehaving. You have to see what the ECU is seeing to understand why the engine is behaving the way it is. The ECU itself has very weak self-diagnostic capabilities, basically the only codes it throws are for things like open circuit/short circuit. All the sensor plausibility stuff is entirely on you to diagnose. How stable are AFRs when the engine stutters at idle? What does the MAF signal look like? Really meditate on the logs before you throw parts at the car. If you're suddenly losing consult cable connection during those drop-outs I would start suspecting the ECU or whatever is supplying power to the ECU.

I just purchased data scan with cable a few hours ago. Thanks for the help.

 

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Hardcase Rookie

Hardcase

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3 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Once you get logs of the issue feel free to upload it here, I can try and stare at it and see if anything stands out as well.

cheers mate. gonna be at least a week before it arrives.

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