Jump to content
SAU Community

Basic wiring for s1 r33 rb25det engine


Recommended Posts

So guys I need some help, I've just put a series 1 rb25det from a running r33 into my s14 drift car. I've used the engine loom and dash loom (so I can use the cluster) sent power to the appropriate wires on the engine loom/ECU but I'm not getting any spark or ignition. 

The car is bare bones and has ignition, fuel pumps and starter on a switch panel, does anyone have any info on how to get it up and running.

 

Cheers 

 

 

DSC_0457.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers robbo, just had a quick browse through it, hopefully there is something in it that will help. From what I can tell I've done pretty much what it says, only difference is that I'm not using any of the old 200sx looms. 

It's basically a full track car so I just need the engine to run 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you sure the ECU is powered up correctly? Can you attach a consult of some sort to the port to monitor?

ECU power needs the ECCS relay all hooked up correctly, that would be the place to start if the whole ECU is dead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Isn't the fuel pump relay in the boot originally? Both my fuel pumps, starter and ignition switch are independently wired, basically ran switched 12v to the wires on that pinout that require 12v

Plugs have been pulled and checked for spark but I have nothing.

The second relay near the ecu isn't coming on, I'm sure one is eccs and the other ignition? I did find a pin on the white connector in the drivers footwell that powered up this relay but when checking for 12v output from it there was nothing. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah there are variations in the looms from different years, but if you have 2 relays on is ECCS and the other ignition.

Per your diagram pin 16 should earth the ECCS relay when the ECU gets IGN on signal, so check out that part first. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm guessing the one that's clicking when ignition is switched is the eccs relay.

It seems the ignition relay is the one that isn't clicking which would explain the lack of spark. Even when I put power to the pin I mentioned on the I believe f3 plug in the drivers footwell there is no 12v out of the ignition relay 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...