Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Butters

ATS Carbon Silent Twin - Anyone Used ?

Recommended Posts

Doing a R34 Getrag conversion in my Cefiro.

 

Looking at two clutch options the above ATS twin carbon silent and a Nismo Coppermix twin.

Currently have the push version of the Nismo coppermix(680ps) and found it started to slip around 700hp at wheels.

I also find it is a bit heavy on the foot(i've had a leg operation and due another). The pull version is rated to 780ps

 

On paper the ATS silent carbon twin ticks all the box's.

900ps rating

using factory dual mass

silent operation.

light pedal.

 

I read through the threads though on the carbon clutches and no shortage of stories of people pulling them out.

They are all from 2006 to 2014 though.

 

This is a new(ish) clutch by ATS , wondering if anyone has used ? is it any better ? does it suit the street as claimed ?

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

get a clutch from an Aussie clutch company. Tell them what  you want it to do. Buy what they say will work.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've spoken to a couple already (the better known and recommended in aus) and found them to not very helpful thus far.

 I have a direct clutch in my race car and whilst its great in that, it is so far from  what I want for my street car its not funny.

 

I am not aware of any Aus that make a silent clutch ?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nismo coppermix clutches are not even in the same ballpark as any ATS carbon clutch. The silent carbon ATS clutch is really just retaining the dual mass flywheel as a means of trying to tame the excessive Getrag rollover gear noise which is enhanced with a solid flywheel. They are a pretty clunky sounding box like a Tremec T56 or TR6060, which is not helped by the fact they use an ATF fluid because of the synchro material.

It'll be a good clutch as the ATS carbons are the shit - the carbon plates are all the same. ACS in Adelaide used to stock ATS at good prices. If not they have their own twin carbon which might be worth a look behind a Getrag.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

So the stories of people trashing them on install are a thing of past now ? 

Should I expect much slip ?

Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, BK said:

Nismo coppermix clutches are not even in the same ballpark as any ATS carbon clutch. The silent carbon ATS clutch is really just retaining the dual mass flywheel as a means of trying to tame the excessive Getrag rollover gear noise which is enhanced with a solid flywheel. They are a pretty clunky sounding box like a Tremec T56 or TR6060, which is not helped by the fact they use an ATF fluid because of the synchro material.

It'll be a good clutch as the ATS carbons are the shit - the carbon plates are all the same. ACS in Adelaide used to stock ATS at good prices. If not they have their own twin carbon which might be worth a look behind a Getrag.

Are the ATS carbon clutches really all that good for street use? I was under the impression that the lack of springs in the clutch means it's much easier to cause shock loading of the drivetrain unless you take care to prevent it in how you drive.

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Are the ATS carbon clutches really all that good for street use?

Yes

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I rang ACS, they no longer do carbon clutches, only something called a carbon button. 

Everything they sell rattles though.  Also have to do pull to push conversion. 

 

Hunting down a dual mass flywheel to go with ATS silent carbon twin is next challenge. 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, Butters said:

I rang ACS, they no longer do carbon clutches, only something called a carbon button. 

Everything they sell rattles though.  Also have to do pull to push conversion. 

 

Hunting down a dual mass flywheel to go with ATS silent carbon twin is next challenge. 

 

 

I love ATS, but I must say I don't actually believe the bnr34 silent ATS twin is a very good deal though, at $3700AUD before tax, import duty or shipping from RHD Japan and you have to add a 34 dual mass flywheel on top of that too. They really are starting to price themselves out of the market.

The BNR34 ATS silent clutch also requires a pull to push conversion as per Note 3.

http://www.ppi-ats.com/Silent_clutch.html

https://www.rhdjapan.com/ats-across-silent-carbon-twin-clutch-kit-spec-2-bnr34.html

Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh bummer, I missed the push conversion notes !

 

As for pricing, seen the price for R34 GTR stuff lately ...  haha

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Topics

  • Latest Posts

    • I also think it would be wrong to say that RB's are weak or inherently flawed. Their oil control issues and block strength aren't a design flaw, they did exactly what they were designed to do when being used for what they were designed to do. Really it's the fact that they are quite a solid base that we are discovering their limits, because people are trying to push them to 600-700-800+ horsepower. Go and try that with a Toyota 2ZZ, the crank starts walking around at 500hp and you can't stop it. There's plenty of motors that legitimately can't handle it at all, the RBs sort of can but you're asking a lot of them.   At the end of the day, there's just no guarantees either way. You might build a 600hp engine and have it last 15 years, it might last 2 months - there's no way to guarantee it. So you're playing an odds game, you're rolling the dice. And if you aren't comfortable rolling the dice with the amount of money that it costs to play the game, then the best advice anyone can give is to not do it. Don't go to the casino and put all your money on Red if it will hurt too much when you land on Black.   Just ask Laine@bcozican, he's the sort of man that stands with his back to the table and barely even checks what colour the last throw landed on before rolling again 🤣🤣🤣❤
    • Nismo R35 GT3 Brembo Racing Caliper 2 sets front calipers, new and unused Suit high performance modification to any GTR Skyline with limited modifications for adaptors etc. Perfect application for 'Time Attack' build Item location is UK, worldwide shipping available and as part of purchase cost. Price for 1 x pair ( LHF + RHF ) GPB£3250 - AUS$5850 Happy to discuss further with technical support, information and pictures +447552494484
    • Ahh I see, I thought you were saying you were going back to a 2.6L. Just misunderstood what you meant by based.    Carry on then!
    • But the simple way is just go to the R33 GTS page at GTRRegistry and all the details same as FAST are there.
    • This is the factory procedure; 13.Crank Pulley A: REMOVAL 1) Remove the V-belts. <Ref. to ME(H4SO)-36, REMOVAL, V-belt.> 2) Remove the crank pulley bolt. To lock the crankshaft, use Shop Tool 499977100 CRANK PULLEY WRENCH 3) Remove the crank pulley.   B: INSTALLATION 1) Install the crank pulley. 2) Install the pulley bolt. To lock the crankshaft, use Shop Tool 499977100 CRANK PULLEY WRENCH (1) Clean the crankshaft thread using compressed air. (2) Apply engine oil to the crank pulley bolt seat and thread. (3) Tighten the bolts temporarily with tightening torque of 44 N·m  or   33 ft-lb). (4) Tighten the crank pulley bolts. Tightening torque: 180 N·m   or  132.8 ft-lb)   3) Check that the tightening angle of the clamp pulley bolt is a minimum of 65°,  Perform the following procedures when less than 65°. (1) Replace the crank pulley bolts and clean them. Crank pulley bolt: 12369AA011 (2) Clean the crankshaft thread using compressed air. (3) Apply engine oil to the crank pulley bolt seat and thread. (4) Tighten the bolts temporarily with a tightening torque of 44 N·m (4.5 kgf-m, 33 ft-lb). (5) Tighten the crank pulley bolt an additional 65° to 75°.  
×
×
  • Create New...