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Upgraded Fuel system On stock Gtr


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7 hours ago, boomtheroom said:

what diode do u recommend for 50A current?

This is the one I'm using

https://www.jaycar.com.au/diode-1n5822-schottky-40v-3a-do-27/p/ZR1048?pos=3&queryId=fb7fb53a655ffbe45e0114ac48e8a107&sort=relevance

 

7 hours ago, boomtheroom said:

also is you ssr on a heat sink? does it need to be?

It is on a fairly large heatsink, this one to be exact. To be honest, you could get away by surface mounting it to a metal surface.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/heatsink-to-suit-sy4084-sy4086/p/SY4085

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9 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

This is the one I'm using

https://www.jaycar.com.au/diode-1n5822-schottky-40v-3a-do-27/p/ZR1048?pos=3&queryId=fb7fb53a655ffbe45e0114ac48e8a107&sort=relevance

 

It is on a fairly large heatsink, this one to be exact. To be honest, you could get away by surface mounting it to a metal surface.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/heatsink-to-suit-sy4084-sy4086/p/SY4085

dont suppose u could do a diagram on how u have everything wired up?

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@Dose Pipe SutututuI don't know much about the SSR's, are they just a single output?  So if you had two pumps (ignoring lift pumps from this) you wanted to stage separately you would need two separate SSR's?  Or is the idea that you stage both pumps together to control them and their output as a pair as opposed to running one flat knacker all the time and then staging the second pump?

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Guys regarding diodes, you should be using something that is going to be rated massively higher than 40v for the flyback voltage. Rule of thumb is roughly 10 times higher than supply voltage, so at least 100v diode or above.  Flyback current is minimal but voltage high, so 1A is usually sufficient.

So bare minimum should be a 1N4001 which is 100v / 1A or a 1N4004 at 400v / 1A. For a bit more headroom on the current I've found the 1N5404 to be big overkill at 400v / 3A which is what I'm running now.

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5 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

@Dose Pipe SutututuI don't know much about the SSR's, are they just a single output?  So if you had two pumps (ignoring lift pumps from this) you wanted to stage separately you would need two separate SSR's?  Or is the idea that you stage both pumps together to control them and their output as a pair as opposed to running one flat knacker all the time and then staging the second pump?

Single contacts. I believe Dose pipe is PWM controlling 2 pumps through the one 100A SSR. I've also tested it with 3 x pumps.

Also the Jaycar 30v / 100A SSR is the exact one Haltech is selling, Kudom (not Crydom as first thought) is the supplier. Crydom however is the best in the business for SSR and have just released their 4th gen versions. The D1D100 is their new 30v / 100A for improved reliability. They are expensive but the best.

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All solid state relays require a flyback voltage diode when switching inductive loads like a fuel pump. This is just trivial anyway as you usually place the diode at across your pump terminals, not at the relay.

Its good practice anyway to use diodes on coil type relays as well, not just solid state ones.

image.thumb.png.4ed06ccc4525625f65f59bfc15db62d1.png

Kudom SSR data

SY4086-dataSheetMain.pdf

Haltech SSR data

HT-030202_IS.pdf

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1 hour ago, Shoota_77 said:

@Dose Pipe SutututuI don't know much about the SSR's, are they just a single output?  So if you had two pumps (ignoring lift pumps from this) you wanted to stage separately you would need two separate SSR's?  Or is the idea that you stage both pumps together to control them and their output as a pair as opposed to running one flat knacker all the time and then staging the second pump?

Correct, you would run 2x SSRs.

The idea behind PWM is instead of running the pumps at full tilt you just run them at lower duty cycles and ramp them up as you need.

Similar to new modern cars and their engine fans, notice it's not just on/off? it ramps up depending on temperature requirements.

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2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Similar to new modern cars and their engine fans,

I have  been meaning to investigate this. The controllers for those are huge, as the gans would draw large currents. And should be reasonably cheap. Will report back , if not within 6 months please wait longer.

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15 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

I have  been meaning to investigate this. The controllers for those are huge, as the gans would draw large currents. And should be reasonably cheap. Will report back , if not within 6 months please wait longer.

* 2.5 SAU scaling factor, so 15 months :)

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On 25/06/2021 at 9:08 AM, boomtheroom said:

wheres ur relay sitting?

If you have an R32 GTR a really good spot we found was underneath the HICAS unit shown, picking up the existing 3 mounting bolts. This is the relay / heat sink setup from the our white 32 driving a Walbro 525. Note diode across pump terminals.

 

IMG_20210626_115328_6.jpg

IMG_20210626_115303_9.jpg

IMG_20210626_115220_0.jpg

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44 minutes ago, boomtheroom said:

can u do the diode at the relay end also? bit easier if running 3 in tank pumps as on ly 1 earth and 3 +

It can be anywhere physically so long as it is wired as required.

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1 hour ago, boomtheroom said:

can u do the diode at the relay end also? bit easier if running 3 in tank pumps as on ly 1 earth and 3 +

Still easier at pump terminal end using 3 diodes. Why one earth ? You realise your one earth has to be very large then to carry the current of 3 pumps if you go that way.

Also you will absolutely need a bigger alternator,. The factory 90A is not going to cut it, as your system voltage will be shit. If you are intending on running 3 x Walbro 460 or 525 your current draw at full noise under boost is more like 60 - 70A. The single 525 at 43psi, 100% duty is pulling around 18 - 18.2A on 13.7v as per spec, rising to around 22 -23A on boost when I clamped it. That's just one Walbro, and is the reason I don't use Walbros on my triple pump setup on the other 32.

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On 6/26/2021 at 3:54 PM, BK said:

Still easier at pump terminal end using 3 diodes. Why one earth ? You realise your one earth has to be very large then to carry the current of 3 pumps if you go that way.

Also you will absolutely need a bigger alternator,. The factory 90A is not going to cut it, as your system voltage will be shit. If you are intending on running 3 x Walbro 460 or 525 your current draw at full noise under boost is more like 60 - 70A. The single 525 at 43psi, 100% duty is pulling around 18 - 18.2A on 13.7v as per spec, rising to around 22 -23A on boost when I clamped it. That's just one Walbro, and is the reason I don't use Walbros on my triple pump setup on the other 32.

Yeah I hear ya!!! 😉

I think ill jut run 2 and have the 3rd sitting there in place ..just in case.. but yeah ill be getting a 140a alternator

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