Jump to content
SAU Community

Single vs twin turbo.


Recommended Posts

Hi there. 
 

I’ve been a long time lurker on this site and finally bought a stock standard R32 GTR. I plan to do bolt on mods that make it perform better but I want to be able to return the car to stock if needed. 
 

Big question at the moment is which turbos to go with. I was pretty set on going with -9 turbos. This is mainly based on stuff I’ve read on this forum over the last couple of years. But I liked the fact they should perform well (300awkw, would make it a very fast car by my standards) and I can keep the engine bay looking factory. 
 

The guys tuning the car think it’s silly to not go single. 
But I have the following concerns. 
1, drivetrain issues. From what I’ve read on here at 300-330awkw the driveline should be pretty safe at that level. I plan to go to a nismo clutch. At 400awkw am I pushing the factory driveline too far and should upgrade it?

2, will the car have to be cut or modified in anyway to fit the single? I don’t want to make any changes that can’t be bolted back to factory if I can avoid it. 
 

3, what turbo would you recommend? Which singles will be similarly responsive as -9 but be able to provide more kw up top?

I know the usual reaction is to mention to search these things but truthfully I’ve spent a crazy amount of time reading up on this stuff and now my wallet if finally about to start being emptied any more info would be very much appreciated. 
 

Also this is likely to be first of a few looking for help choosing parts on this build. 5AB44B0B-D1B0-461D-881A-23F2E9D95A6C.thumb.jpeg.9cb833b06fa841f8009e3e6f11acbc90.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/12/2021 at 3:38 PM, Fizurg said:

1, drivetrain issues. From what I’ve read on here at 300-330awkw the driveline should be pretty safe at that level. I plan to go to a nismo clutch. At 400awkw am I pushing the factory driveline too far and should upgrade it?

Perhaps that's not the question to ask. For any given power level the single will smack the twins senseless. More response, more area under the curve (from the single). So you could put a "smaller" single on and shoot to max it out at less than 400rwkW (say, aim for 350) and enjoy life a lot more.

On 8/12/2021 at 3:38 PM, Fizurg said:

2, will the car have to be cut or modified in anyway to fit the single? I don’t want to make any changes that can’t be bolted back to factory if I can avoid it. 

No.

On 8/12/2021 at 3:38 PM, Fizurg said:

3, what turbo would you recommend? Which singles will be similarly responsive as -9 but be able to provide more kw up top?

See 1.

First question though would be "what fuel?" You can push smaller turbos to more power using E85 than you can on 98. E85 allows higher boost, which causes higher air temps at the same compressor efficiency and pushing the boost higher usually reduces efficiency when you're aiming for the top of the compressor map.

The recommendation will be for a T3 or T4 twin scroll housing and proper divided manifold and wastegate arrangement. Have a look at the various RB25 & 26 turbo upgrade threads stickied on here to see what people are achieving. The options range from GTX3076, through GT3576 or GT3582, to G30-550 or 660, and BW EFRs like the 7670. There's a lot of size difference across those ones I've listed, and not all are available with divided housings, etc. And that's ignoring Precisions and all the off-brand stuff.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/08/2021 at 6:54 PM, GTSBoy said:

Perhaps that's not the question to ask. For any given power level the single will smack the twins senseless. More response, more area under the curve (from the single). So you could put a "smaller" single on and shoot to max it out at less than 400rwkW (say, aim for 350) and enjoy life a lot more.

No.

See 1.

First question though would be "what fuel?" You can push smaller turbos to more power using E85 than you can on 98. E85 allows higher boost, which causes higher air temps at the same compressor efficiency and pushing the boost higher usually reduces efficiency when you're aiming for the top of the compressor map.

The recommendation will be for a T3 or T4 twin scroll housing and proper divided manifold and wastegate arrangement. Have a look at the various RB25 & 26 turbo upgrade threads stickied on here to see what people are achieving. The options range from GTX3076, through GT3576 or GT3582, to G30-550 or 660, and BW EFRs like the 7670. There's a lot of size difference across those ones I've listed, and not all are available with divided housings, etc. And that's ignoring Precisions and all the off-brand stuff.

Cheers for the great response. After spending countless hours looking for twin turbo stuff I’m pretty new to anything to do with single turbo set ups. 
 

The 400rwkw I sort of just plucked out of the air. But anything in the 350-400 range would be amazing. At these power levels are driveline upgrades needed?
 

The gas will be 98. It’s wildly available here unlike E85. There is also a new fuel supplier offering 100 octane petrol but i haven’t looked into it. 
 

Looks like I will have to reacquaint myself with the dyno thread again. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/08/2021 at 7:05 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

GTX3576R Gen 2 with 1.01 divided housing, twin scroll manifold, pump as much boost as you want until it stops making power (and not worry about turbines ejecting into the exhaust area or compressor wheels smashing into housings).

Reliable, fast and fun.
 

I am biased.

What were your results with this turbo, if you don’t mind me asking?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Single turbos make very little sense for a GTR these days (ie, since they became a mega expensive collector's car)

If you want a performance car with 400kw there are better choices built in the last 30 years.

If you want a GTR because of what they were when they were made back in the day, twin turbos are what the factory chose. For road use, there is no practical difference between 300, 400 or 600kw, they all have too much power to keep your foot down for more than about 3 seconds.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers guys. I think you can see the dilemma. For performance, a single is the obvious choice. But I feel like the twins should be enough to make the car more than enough fun for me and if I can keep it looking original there is an appeal to me for that. 
with the twins I can leave the engine bay looking stock and it would almost be a bit of a sleeper. Not that a GTR is a very good base for a sleeper. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The twins have SOME merit because you can say they were made specifically by Garrett as upgrades for this specific car (I don't mean factory upgrades, but turbos made specifically for the RB26).

To use the car as an actual performance car for actual performance, a smaller Garrett G series as a single would be absolutely awesome, and be physically small and absolutely give you lovely clearance to everything and more than enough power without blowing things to smithereens.

You wouldn't pick any other Garrett turbo in 2021 - They are their best product, though many other products of the past would still be considered a big upgrade to stock.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/08/2021 at 5:44 PM, Fizurg said:

What were your results with this turbo, if you don’t mind me asking?

I have (I did have) a RB25DET NEO, so it has less displacement than a RB26. I was able to get 407kW at the rear wheels (with a cracked FMIC and sky high intake air temps). I did put on a better FMIC but sadly the motor imploded due to oil starvation issues.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GTX3576R gen2 T3 open scroll RB26, stock bottom end, average compression with reco head and bits n pieces up top, cams etc. 440 odd kw at the hubs.

Don't have a boost gauge apart from the 34 GTR MFD, but on the Haltech, E60% ethanol in winter, 152.2 Kpa at 3615rpm.

Screen Shot 2021-07-16 at 3.46.14 pm.png

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 13/08/2021 at 12:26 PM, djvoodoo said:

GTX3576R gen2 T3 open scroll RB26, stock bottom end, average compression with reco head and bits n pieces up top, cams etc. 440 odd kw at the hubs.

Don't have a boost gauge apart from the 34 GTR MFD, but on the Haltech, E60% ethanol in winter, 152.2 Kpa at 3615rpm.

Screen Shot 2021-07-16 at 3.46.14 pm.png

Sex, comes on earlier than the stock twins

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After talking to the guy who’s going to tune it and the guy doing the work I’ve been convinced to go for a 8374. It’s way more power than I expected to get but reading up it seems like a pretty exciting option. 
I’m halfway through the 130 odd pages in the EFR thread and am amazed at the results. There seems to be a feeling that the IWG options aren’t as good as the EWG ones. But I’m guessing there would be some cost savings with the IWG especially vs a twin external wastegate set up. Does anyone have any experience with the 8374 IWG vs EWG. Is there cost savings? Is there performance sacrifices? Is a twin wastegate setup needed for a twin scroll 8374?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/17/2021 at 6:02 PM, Fizurg said:

After talking to the guy who’s going to tune it and the guy doing the work I’ve been convinced to go for a 8374. It’s way more power than I expected to get but reading up it seems like a pretty exciting option. 
I’m halfway through the 130 odd pages in the EFR thread and am amazed at the results. There seems to be a feeling that the IWG options aren’t as good as the EWG ones. But I’m guessing there would be some cost savings with the IWG especially vs a twin external wastegate set up. Does anyone have any experience with the 8374 IWG vs EWG. Is there cost savings? Is there performance sacrifices? Is a twin wastegate setup needed for a twin scroll 8374?

If you’re going to be spending that much on a turbo you may aswell just do it properly and go the full twin external gate option.

you would hate to get all the way to the end and always have that little bit or regret/ wonder what if, if I had gone the other option. Just more cost effective to do it properly in one hit

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 17/08/2021 at 8:27 PM, UWISSH! said:

If you’re going to be spending that much on a turbo you may aswell just do it properly and go the full twin external gate option.

you would hate to get all the way to the end and always have that little bit or regret/ wonder what if, if I had gone the other option. Just more cost effective to do it properly in one hit

Yeah, that makes sure. I think part of me was hoping people on here would say not to worry about it. That the 10 extra kw aren’t worth the effort. Sadly it seems that’s not the case haha. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/17/2021 at 8:11 PM, Fizurg said:

Yeah, that makes sure. I think part of me was hoping people on here would say not to worry about it. That the 10 extra kw aren’t worth the effort. Sadly it seems that’s not the case haha. 

The real difference isn't "Single vs Twin" its the fact that for any kind of sensible power figure, Single turbo development has kept on going instead of the direct bolt on twins in the 90's.

You could use two of these new, modern turbos, for approximately the same result as a single of the same total size of two modern ones combined, but as that is more expensive, and more complicated, and that generally turbos get more efficient as they get larger..... people don't choose to do this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 17/08/2021 at 10:19 PM, Kinkstaah said:

The real difference isn't "Single vs Twin" its the fact that for any kind of sensible power figure, Single turbo development has kept on going instead of the direct bolt on twins in the 90's.

You could use two of these new, modern turbos, for approximately the same result as a single of the same total size of two modern ones combined, but as that is more expensive, and more complicated, and that generally turbos get more efficient as they get larger..... people don't choose to do this.

Yeah, if I stayed with twins it would have been to save money and keep the engine bay looking stock. The EFR twin set ups look really cool but out of budget and don’t seem to make sense compared to running one bigger one. Pretty cool for show cars and things like that though. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To me the interesting test would be something like EFR7064 single vs whatever flavor of the day bolt-on twin turbo with comparable power output, assuming you added whatever you needed to try and fix some of the more blatant issues like the really awful twin turbo merge pipe, etc. I have a feeling it would be the EFR7064 but how far off with the stock-ish twins be?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 18/08/2021 at 10:45 AM, joshuaho96 said:

To me the interesting test would be something like EFR7064 single vs whatever flavor of the day bolt-on twin turbo with comparable power output, assuming you added whatever you needed to try and fix some of the more blatant issues like the really awful twin turbo merge pipe, etc. I have a feeling it would be the EFR7064 but how far off with the stock-ish twins be?

I could be wrong with the turbo number but the tuner did mention going down to a 7xxx turbo which would beat -7 twins in every way. But he said it’s always better to go one size up as most people end up wishing they had. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New R34 owned here (from the US) and found a gem, '98 GTT with ~6k miles, super clean & completely stock. When shifting there's no grinding, shifts smooth, etc. The concern I have are 2 things: 1) Only in 2nd and 3rd... when maintaining a slower speed (in traffic as an example) as I let off/on the gas, the shifter will slightly move and vibrate. If the clutch is engaged, none of this happens. It's not bad, but enough to feel like something isn't necessarily right. 2) This mainly happen in 4th or 5th... the shifter slightly bounces up and down, almost like it's riding on unbalanced tires (and I do think the tires are unbalanced as I get a little of that bounce feel at higher speeds, which is maybe why it only happens in 4th/5th). Lastly, and sorry for this noob question but I want to work on this car myself, can someone teach me some on these manual transmissions? Like servicing them, best products to use, etc.; would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
    • Coilovers aren't even the first step. Bushes, subframe position and alignment, HICAS elimination, adjustable upper arms and traction arms in order to dial out understeer. All these things need/deserve attention first. ARBs (There's no such thing as a swaybar. Please, everybody, stop calling them that) are useful if you want to limit spring stiffness. Otherwise you can control body roll with springs. Spring and damper rates are a function of road surface, speed and usage. There is no solution that works for all cases.
    • Define "nothing". Is the starter spinning but not the engine? Engine turning but not firing? If the engine is turning but not firing, then you are missing either fuel or spark. You need to find whichever has gone missing.
    • Shitbox Tiguan updates, got the APR OTS tune put back on (no charge for it to be removed/added back), didn't want to just come in just for that (not a fan of wasting people's time for nothing) so I purchased an APR dog bone insert. The boys at German Performance Garage said they would fit it for free too since they had 1x hoist free. Now that's service you don't normally get from most workshops. Anyhow, tune back on, snow grate pulled out, dog bone insert back in and not going to lie, a few smiles when I nailed it around the industrial area heading back onto the M7. Amayama also said 1 to 2.5 month wait for the RB25DE heater hose, yeah why not, car has been off the road for nearly 3, what's a other 2.5?
    • Hmm I'm going to approach this from the other side... What is the car doing that you don't like or what would you like the car to do that is currently isn't doing (handling wise that is)
×
×
  • Create New...