Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Scratches coming back after full detail


tomaytown
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello all!

Recently decided to de-badge my old car and tried to make the paint a little better as I plan on selling it soon.

First I removed paint transfer from door dings as well as a scuff on the front bumper. I used WD40 and a magic eraser.

I then de-badged the entire car with some wire and hairdryer on heat which worked a charm. Used a bit of WD40 to get rid of the glue residue as well, which worked.

Both steps left behind some hazing from the WD40 as well as an outline of where the badges had been. I then compound/ polished/waxed the entire car. And although not perfect, I was happy with the results.

Now for the problems. After about 2 weeks all the scratches came back. The haze also came back where the scuff marks were. It looks a whole lot worse than before because the paint got darker from the detail and the scratches/haze is more obvious. I went through the whole detail process a second time and it all came back again!

I don't know what I'm doing wrong and advice would be much appreciated!

Products I used:

Meguiar's Polish, Compund and Wax

Did everything by hand

Edited by tomaytown
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • tomaytown changed the title to Scratches coming back after full detail

What you did there is fill in the scratches with various products and once they break down, the fill in effect wears off.

The only way to do it right is with a machine polisher and decent pads.

Even with the machine process you can get some false results, so you need products that remove polishing oils to properly check the end result of your work, before any wax or sealant goes on.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/22/2021 at 7:00 PM, junkie said:

What you did there is fill in the scratches with various products and once they break down, the fill in effect wears off.

The only way to do it right is with a machine polisher and decent pads.

Even with the machine process you can get some false results, so you need products that remove polishing oils to properly check the end result of your work, before any wax or sealant goes on.

Thanks for the reply. Guess I'll be buying a machine then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • I 100% agree that another intake setup would be better performing but I like the uniqueness it brings to the build. I am not paying someone to do the fabrication and this has become something I want to figure out. Call me stubborn for being sold a "bolt-on" adapter plate. The waterjet has been down so it was quicker to machine them. I had one of my machinists at work (who is enthusiastic about making car parts) to give me a hand over the weekend. We started with .75" scrap we had kicking around and profiled out the shape.  I transferred over the studs from the balance tube for a test fit. There is a slight interference caused by the distance between the top and bottom studs being off by .75mm. Not a huge deal as the split pins which locate the throttle bodies are on the bottom holes and they fit perfect. I just oversized the top holes on the ITBs to accommodate my stupid error in measurement You can see the difference in the ITB spacing vs the OEM RB20DET runner spacing here. The plan is to fill it with weld on the inside and weld on the outside as well. I can then smooth out the transition.  -Jordie 
    • You could add a larger reservoir to the heat exchanger circuit so can add ice when at the track. Where I was working at the time found adding a watertank/reservoir in boot of blown cars helped massively, less expensive than an interchiller kit but lost spare wheel well. Cars could do back to back runs with more consistant IATs. I fitted an interchiller and 4.9L whipple to a LS at a shop I was at and IATs were never a problem. 
    • Dont forget rotational mass weight saving is 3 to 1 also   But yes theoretically good, strong , light wheels for sure but also ive still buckles "best jap wheels" and sigh The overall combo youre building is strong 💪
    • Yeah, I'm gonna hit him up for some closeup photos of the journals/caps. Its at a decent price, especially since it has all the required parts for a complete cylinder head, minus the passenger rocker cover 🙃 I thought the same regarding the head not having oil. Its a camshaft, not a crankshaft? Surely the forces would be small enough that they couldn't do that much damage...
    • Two posts later and its the first post of 2022...
×
×
  • Create New...