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R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build


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Was back in the garage today. Started off with the installation of my Nitto head drain. Installation is pretty straight forward. 

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Knocked the welch plug out. 

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Drilled 13/64 and tapped M6x1. Cleaned it out thoroughly afterwards. 

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As per the instructions, I put oil resistant gasket maker on the drain and thread sealant on the bolts and tightened it up. 

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Lastly my driveway is on a slant so I cannot push cars up into the garage. I installed a winch in the garage to pull in any cars that can't move under their own power (engineless, etc.) or that are equipped with summer tires in the winter. Skyline got stuck in the driveway last winter when I pulled it out to do an oil change on my daily driver... When it came time to drive it back in, tires would just spin on the ice/snow. Had to wait 2 days, and get two of my neighbors to help push it in. I don't want this happening again...

I had to weld up a bracket and punch in 4x studs into the cement but came out great. I'll be using my lawn tractor battery as it serves no purpose in the winter. 

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Edited by TurboTapin
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  • 1 month later...

Took awhile but I finally got my block back from my machinist/assembler. I can finally continue with the build.

Realized my ARP RB25 balancer bolt doesn't fit. It's a spool RB25-RB28 stroker kit but it must be identical to their RB26 stroker kit and have the crank sized for an M18 RB26 bolt and not an M16 RB25 bolt. Never thought of this when I ordered it but it makes sense. I just wish they would have listed it in the description. I'm off to order another one of those and a few last remaining parts. 

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Still waiting on parts, they should start arriving this week. Mocked up my PRP crank trigger while I wait. IMG_20220305_155344.thumb.jpg.e350df02589ef75445a7b4ea7606a13c.jpg

Have a question for everyone, I've been hearing different opinions then what I had originally presumed. Is anyone running/building RB's with .250" thick wrist pins? If so, what are you revving them up too? Have you limited the RPM due to the added rotational weight? 

Thanks 

Edited by TurboTapin
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Parts started coming in this week, I was able to get most of it done today. Just waiting on my cams and a couple other things. Need to go to my local dealer and order a CD009/A so I can start on that in-between other things. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pulled out my good old trusty RB20/HY35 setup. My garage is a mess but luckily I have a few people coming to buy most of it tomorrow. Stupid what people are willing to spend on these now... A complete RB20 & trans went for 1500$ on a good day 3-4 years ago. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Sold my entire old setup within a week. At this point I've ordered everything I need minus my drivetrain but It's been a waiting game. Most parts are back order and take longer then expected to arrive. Motors complete minus timing belt and Front/Rear head drain hard piping. Just waiting on one cam gear to wrap it up and toss it back in. 

 

While I've been waiting, I replaced my oil filter bypass plug with an oil byass valve as I'll be using an external oil cooler. Just drilled/tapped it and used a puller to get it out. 

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While the motors out, I've been redoing my harness and a lot of wiring for all my Haltech components. I've also been tidying things up under the hood by painting the firewall, resizing intercooler pipe holes for 3", etc. 

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Been doing the harness in the living room inside, should be done this week. The wife's been enjoying the company watching Judge Judy lol.

 

Hopefully I'll finish the motor and be able to pop it back in by next weekend. I'll need to finish up my fuel lines beforehand as well. Using both 5/16 lines with 2x an6 - 1x an8 coupler fittings as a feed and adding a new 3/8" hard line with 8an fittings for return. 

 

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Setup my IC-7 dash today. I saw a company that does roughly the same setup and I liked it enough to copy it. IC7 in a recessed cluster mount. I put 5x 12mm LED's. Battery light (With resistor in parallel), seat belt light, open door light, fuel low light and HICAS light. Yes I still rock HICAS, replaced most of it with new parts years ago and always worked well.

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Also bought another fancy tool Friday. Decided to upgrade my older chinese AC/DC Tig welder with an ESAB 205IC AC/DC Multi-Process welder. I've Tigged aluminum and mild steel with it so far and it's been great. My other machine was by no means bad but I'll never look back.

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On 5/2/2022 at 6:32 PM, Looney_Head said:

progress is looking good. who did you go with for the dash mount? or did you print your own?

Thanks! I purchased the mount from outsider garage. Was the cheapest one I could find and I noticed every company that sells them uses the same photo's so I'm presuming they are all coming from the same place.

I copied the idea of putting the lights to the right/left of the IC7 from Mako Motorsports. 

I finally received my PRP cam gear yesterday so I should be able to wrap up the motor and pop it in this weekend. 

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Finally recieved the last parts I needed to wrap up the engine and pop it back into its hole. I'll try and wrap up the IC7 dash install tomorrow. 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been busy with yardwork. Just finished another 12'x14' paving stone deck for the fire place... 120lb stones are not pleasant to put down. The weight never crossed my mind when I told the salesman I want the big ones. I'm a fool. A fool who now has three decks for some reason.

The wife is also in her third trimester so that's also been keeping me busy.  Been doing odd ends on the car as well, finally wrapped up the IC7 dash and LED indicators today. Everything works great, will just have to scale my fuel level at a later date.

Looks much better then I expected. 

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Edited by TurboTapin
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Small addition to my post above. This morning I noticed my door ajar light was turning on occasionally when it shouldn't. I had a stray 8vdc being fed back from ground side with key out. After taking a closer look at the original cluster, I noticed nissan was actually aware of this as they added a diode. I tossed in a 1N4007 and it's resolved. 

Edited by TurboTapin
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On 5/28/2022 at 12:18 PM, TurboTapin said:

will just have to scale my fuel level at a later date.

if you are taking your pump out to measure voltage i'll be keen to know what values you end up putting in the IC7. i havent got round to pulling my pump out yet so my fuel guage is always around 40% ha

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On 6/1/2022 at 1:11 AM, DaymoR32 said:

if you are taking your pump out to measure voltage i'll be keen to know what values you end up putting in the IC7. i havent got round to pulling my pump out yet so my fuel guage is always around 40% ha

Hey, no need to pull the hanger out. You can see the voltage on the ic7. I'll empty tank, note voltage. Fill tank, note voltage and then scale accordingly. 

Cheers!

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On 6/2/2022 at 3:38 AM, TurboTapin said:

Hey, no need to pull the hanger out. You can see the voltage on the ic7. I'll empty tank, note voltage. Fill tank, note voltage and then scale accordingly. 

Cheers!

cool, will still be interested in what values you get too though :)

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On 6/2/2022 at 9:46 PM, DaymoR32 said:

cool, will still be interested in what values you get too though :)

Not a problem, I'll post them here when I get around to doing it. I'm using a radium fuel pump hanger though so results might vary a tad. Cheers!

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  • 1 month later...

I received my adapter plate and picked up my transmission from the dealer today. Still waiting on the x clutch twin plate to arrive. I'll be removing the bellhousing tomorrow to get it milled down 14mm next week. While it's off I'll also do some test fitment and adjust my trans tunnel if needed. 

 

New large boxes from the dealer are always fun.

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I picked up my milled bellhousing yesterday. Just finished notching it out for my starter. I'm going to use the bellhousing to massage my trans tunnel tomorrow before reassembling the trans. 

 

Hopefully my X Clutch twin arrives soon. This is my last big step before I can wrap everything up engine wise. 

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Edited by TurboTapin
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