Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


A guide on how to wire xenon headlights to non-xenon car


Recommended Posts

Now I'm no professional by any means, in fact I'm a total  wiring novice, but I wanted to post this in case anyone else is going through the same thing and couldn't find any useful information.

Pretty much the xenon headlights have a 4 pin plug. 1 Low beam wire, 1 high beam wire, and 2 grounds/earths.

The non xenon's have a 3 pin plug. 1 Low beam wire, 1 high beam wire, and 1 ground/earth.

 

Now to wire them together, you'll need the plug from the xenon headlight with some leftover wiring, a soldering iron, heat shrink and some patience.

 

Step 1: Cut the 3 pin plug off your non xenon car's headlight.

Step 2: Strip the cars headlight wiring and the xenon plug wiring

Step 3: (order is from car to xenon) Connect wires *note you may have to get extra wire just to make the job easier*; Low to low, high to high, and ground to 2 grounds. If you want you can ground the 2nd ground on the xenon plug to the chassis however I just joined mine as I wanted to make it easy to remove all the wiring at once if need be.

Step 4: Test before soldering that you've wired it correctly.

Step 5: Once wired correctly, solder and heatshrink your wiring.

Step 6: Profit.

 

Attatched is a wiring diagram. No it's not great but my god is it simple and straight to the point.

Hope this helped!

Martin

295134634_3240561246156355_2883614666073192052_n.jpg

Edited by RyzXne
Extra information
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Clean MAFs, Check O2 sensors are good, Check knock sensors are good. They are quiet conservative on timing and factory knock maps (low Octane) are good. Highway I get 8.8-9.2L/100km in my 370z so must be an issue somewhere. Tuning anything VQ based is expensive due to Uprev licence costs & tuners knowing how to use it. HPtuners can now do a small amount of stuff but not worth the time compared to Uprev
    • Ok, wonder if that is normal??  Even my wife's bulky VQ35 AWD Murano does better than that, usually returns around 9L/100km on the highway. V35 6MT returns around 7.5L/100km and my current Q50 is mid to high 6s.
    • Pre tune it was usually sitting around mid 12L/100km. Post tune it went to around 11L/100km.
    • Found a card in the manuals bag that has the override code for a mongoose brand system. Found the exact one in my car Here. I don’t seem to have the second little key for the immobiliser however.
    • Just found a little connector that it fits in, it tricks the ignition into thinking the key is in for like 30 seconds and I can turn the starter without putting my key in. I can still start the car the usual way using my actual key. Very odd
×
×
  • Create New...