New reg arrived, no use hooking it up rail is coming out with injectors.

Sort out this bumper over next few days, finish restoration on headlights. 
post results of both shortly 

You should throw rebuild kits at the injectors while they're out...they pretty much need it anyhow at this age in life.. 😃

Edited September 15, 20242 yr by dbm7

Yeah mate, I’m not 100% how much damage this water has done to the crank and internals. At the moment my mate is sending me whole inlet man with injectors rail to bolt on. 
in the future it’s gonna get a decent amount of boost prob around 400-500hp so this motor is just gonna get it on the road and registered. 
see how it goes. Stage two turbo is still a long way off.

2 hours ago, dbm7 said:

rebuild kits at the injectors

What do these look like?

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

What do these look like?

https://www.autolinkparts.com.au/fuel-injector-o-ring-repair-kit-suit-nissan-skylin~46615

Fits many of the circa 1980s Bosch injectors. The gauze screen eventually gets (partially) restricted with fuel deposits, new base seal & Oring (they go hard), and the spray hole in the plastic pintle cap erodes after decades in service.

 

For the numbers I want from my rb30 I’m going a different ecu and it will be getting new injectors at some stage after it’s in the road.
But for that price, they will 100% be getting a service while they are out. Thanks mate

It's a fun job...did a little write-up here --> https://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=159279.105

FTR, smoothed the idle out and the rb30 was more responsive...manifold vacuum at idle came up a bit (likely the base Orings leaking), and spark-plug colours evened out. An interesting little test, is to grab an eye-dropper/pipette and put a couple of drops of petrol in the old gauze filter, same again with new ones...see how long it takes to drip through 😃

Thing is the results are inconclusive because I replaced the injector connectors and fitted the intake runner spacer at the same time...but when you see & test the old gauze filters, there's little doubt this would've pushed fueling a little bit towards the thin side...

...btw... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2891341l00

....washer bottle cap, still available last time I checked.

Front bar finished, headlights back together rebuilt next.
Fuel tank,bits and pieces on Monday. Cold side replaced by next weekend then we may have the first fire up. 
 

On 18/09/2024 at 8:03 PM, 25RBGT said:

headlights back together

sorry to be pedantic about this, but I'd love to see more details about this.

Background: I'm a retrofitter, and when I get off my lazy arse, I have a projector pair and a brick pair to retrofit (with either HID or LED projectors).

Before and after of reflectors, two coats brushed on.

i used a bucket full of hot water to to heat up glue, then pry the lenses out a little with a flathead screwdriver and cutting with a Stanley.

I’m not sure how the paint will go but it’s my best chance without dipping. 

see the reflection in the picture I’m pointing? That’s two coats paint and you can see the state of it in before shot after I cleaned it 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 19, 20241 yr by 25RBGT

Before and after, headlight's done along with bumper.

New tank clean paint and install complete 🤙

Obviously he got here on Monday, we managed not to hurt ourselves ....fuel tank looks far more useful now (instead of sitting in an unused car like it has been), but there's so much more to do...

@25RBGT Forgot to say, if you need anything else off that car, just let me know...

Thanks mate yeah ready to move onto the next step now. Get this motor running then I will want the box to drive it around my yard instead of pushing the thing haha

Time to get the ass end off the stands and the wheels back on. Finally tank complete 

Today myself and a mate tracked a fuel pump issue down to this amazing piece of workmanship in the fuel cradle loom. Covered by conduit and electrical tape.

so now we should be moving onto the first fire once this is corrected. 🤞🤔

Just got back from a little hands-on with a G58 Baron....I was thinking about this...

..best I can figure it, that pinny was tail-ended ...I didn't really think about the wiring, because all that mattered was the tank and pump cradle (I think I mentioned the pump itself I couldn't vouch for)...which didn't matter, as you said you'd be replacing the pump anyway....

...'for some reason'....and I imagine this is the panel shop's doing... they've replaced the cradle wiring with a metre of 7-core trailer loom, and attached the loom plug (from a different car) to that. The actual cable run from the top of the pump cradle, to fuel pump harness end in boot, is maybe 60cm in length...so I've no idea why they did this...

....the connector in the boot of the pinny, is not going to help you here...because in theory, it should still be present on your car. On top of that, because they've done what they did, we have no idea which colours of the trailer cabling, have been connected to what on the fuel pump cradle (pump +/- , shield, fuel guage/low-level senders)...

...this means, best approach is to remove the pump cradle, and re-work it now ...not later. That is, if you were going to replace the pump, do it, replace the soft lines at the same time...and sort the wiring out (replace that trailer cable with the wiring loom off your old cradle)...

In no way was i suggesting it’s your fault mate.
The trailer cable has a plug that I removed. I will have a closer look, but I did remove the trailer wiring cable with the tow ball as I don’t need it on my silo.

i have replaced the fuel pump already there’s no need to remove the cradle again I can see the wire colours from it in.

Oh for sure, I'm just recounting my thoughts 😎

I'm not what you've got there to fuzt with.... likely my first idea was on the money -- rebuild or replace connectors.

You can get a lot of connector stuff here  -> https://www.rapidcables.com.au/

Didn't look in the boot of mine, because I replaced these when I renewed the pump (plastic of connectors had gone brittle)

edit: what I used... https://www.efihardware.com/products/2120/Deutsch-DTM-Connector-Kit-6-Pin

...cheaper... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364900039138

Edited October 5, 20241 yr by dbm7

Thank you for the links. I’m going to go with the 6pin plug you used.

next step is rust treating re painting dash support bar and steering column then the 6pin cradle plug when it arrives in the mail.