After a ~20 year hiatus since the Golden Era of imports, the itch became too strong to scratch. Whilst all my mates were buying EV’s, nostalgia got the best of me and the hunt began for a fossil-fueled relic.

Looked at plenty of options, but couldn’t go past a classic 90’s Nissan after owning several back in the day. After much deliberation and local inspections, I discovered C35 Laurel’s which ticked all the Skyline boxes in a more subtle platform, the so-called ‘Gentleman’s Skyline’. Being an old aficionado of sedans like Cef’s and C33’s, I knew this was the one.

After a bit of searching, I came across the perfect example and put in a bid, winning it on my birthday of all days. And so the process began…

Since the Straits were open and fuel was a mere commodity, the car arrived in Brisbane in less than a month. After a fairly seemless process, the car was complied and registered shortly after. Happy days!

Apart from the usual wear and tear, the car was surprisingly mint for its age, with a perfect interior, clean bodywork and a smooth driveline.

And so, my humble 1998 Nissan Laurel Club S (Type X) from Kanagawa began its new journey...

Being my usual curious self, I couldn’t help but start to pull her apart. Whilst most parts were original, a few little modifications had been made by the previous owner which needed to be replaced e.g. reverting LED’s back to OEM halogens; replacing side blinkers back to OEM orange (via Amayama) and removing the 5mm spacers from the hubs. Also noticed a bit of deterioration here and there, which prompted a full service of the ol’ RB25DE NEO and an upgrade of the original intake to a 2.75” (70mm) silicon elbow from TB to inlet pipe since the internal rubber flange was falling to bits. Deleted the baffles to keep it clean and was somewhat content at that stage. She was looking pretty good…

After plenty of trouble free miles, I felt some of the components were lacking, especially the mediocre front brakes. Also decided on upgrading the front end, but that’s another story (see next).

Given brakes are always worthy of an upgrade anyway, these were the first decent mod which I decided to tackle. After some trial and error, it became apparent that certain Nissan’s of this era vary between M12x1.25 and M14x1.5 caliper mounting bolts for no apparent reason. So if you’re considering an upgrade, check this first…

After hours of research, comparisons via EPC Data, and perusing of Marketplace, I discovered a set of C34 Stagea front calipers for sale which shared the part number with the turbo C35’s (41001-0V800). The twin-piston calipers were meatier than the single-piston non-turbo brakes and allowed for larger rotors.

Whilst R34 brakes (M14) would fit, the Stagea/Laurel brakes were an OEM upgrade, which meant I wouldn’t need a mod plate. As luck would have it, FEBEST made a rebuild kit for these calipers (0275-R51F). They also sold a kit with all the shims/clips, which I discovered were missing (41080-0V726) so it was pretty straight forward from here.

I decided to rebuild them myself. Turned out to be pretty straight forward. Managed to build a ghetto tool to pop the pistons and get to work. As you can see, definitely needed a bit of love.

All the non-turbo bolts and hardware worked seemlessly otherwise and the rebuild kit worked a treat. New pads from Bendix also joined the party (DB1696-GCT).

Also began painting the caliper brackets, and after seeing a few examples online, decided to go the cliche Nismo route. Looking pretty schmick…

Final step was to get a set of rotors (same as Stagea), which needed to be produced from scratch by DBA as they’re not generally stocked. I decided on the slotted version (DBA2327S). Took a bit of time to arrive, but was worth the wait.

Also tackled the JDM Leasing rims (basically a Work-rep), which had years of brake dust ingrained.

Sourced a set of centre-caps to suit (at least using the Emotion caps to poke fun) and put it all back together. Used the hillbilly bleed method to flush the old fluid and replaced with new Penrite DOT3. Pretty damn happy with the result, and on testing, the stopping power was MUCH better!

Whilst tinkering with the brakes, I noticed a bit of wear to the inners of the front tyres which was likely an alignment issue. I figured since the brakes were off and I would need an alignment anyway, I may as well do the suspension. So the journey began…

The suspension itself was fairly straight forward. My research indicated the suspension platform was shared with an S14/S15 and I took the plunge and ordered a set of S14 KYB front shocks (334184/334185). These turned out to be a pretty close match.

Only differences as such were the mounting points for the brake line and ABS sensor, which were close, but not quite right. The strut tops, springs and hardware otherwise aligned and I was able to piece it all together. Note before, mark the spring alignment with the old shocks before removal, as this took a bit of research to confirm the orientation. The springs are clearly aftermarket, but the label was unable to be read. I’ll likely replace these eventually as they’re a bit soft, but as luck would have it, the aforementioned tabs could be slightly bent to suit and I was able to reinstall it without too much hassle. Also restored the bump stops which had deteriorated a bit as I couldn’t identify a suitable replacement .

Once it was all together, I decided to inspect the outer tie rods. Straight away, it was apparent they were super floppy and had seized. I couldn’t even remove the jam nut (yes, confirmed the thread direction). After popping the knuckle and using all methods of manipulation (lube; heat; force), these bad boys were clearly not budging. And so the fun began…

As I couldn’t remove the outer tie rods, I would also need to do the inner tie rods. These are a bit of a pain as they have a retention washer. Luckily, my good friends at FEBEST saved my ass and happened to make inner AND outer tie rods for C35 Laurel’s (0222-Z50 (Inner - inc. retention washer) & 0221-101 (Outer)). So outer tie rod soon after met Mr. Grinder. And after patiently waiting for a selection of parts, began to dismantle and reassemble the steering components. Fortunately the steering rack boots were still intact, so these were reused. I did however clean the steering rack of the old grease and relubed it all with some Penrite grease.

I also discovered a super handy tool for installing inner tie rods which made me happy as a torque Nazi. Turns out the new inners had a slightly bulkier nut of ~34mm (33.6) but did include a new retention washer. I used a dab of Loctite 243 to be sure.

All in all, the front end feels a lot tighter once back together. I also took this opportunity to bleed and flush the power steering fluid with Penrite fluid which also improved the steering response. The alignment was shocking to be expected (as I couldn’t measure the old tie rods), but the shop sorted it out no dramas and she now handles like a dream!

With a new front end, new front tyres and upgraded brakes, I added a few misc add-ons such as a KAP fire extinguisher bracket (same mounts as R34, they’ve since added a C35 page upon consultation), replaced the bonnet gas struts (EZILIFT Gas Struts EZ1204 + 4 x Angled Metal End for 6*15 & 8*18) and had some spare keys cut (H0564-4P111/H0564-AU000). Whilst I was still loving driving the ol’ girl, she just needed a bit more… power…

On 07/04/2026 at 11:38 PM, MYC35 said:

Whilst I was still loving driving the ol’ girl, she just needed a bit more… power…

Love where this is going! I quite like the Laurels in general. But the RB25DE + automatic only combination always has me a bit worried that it might be leaning too much to the gentlemanly side

On 21/4/2026 at 3:58 PM, soviet_merlin said:

Love where this is going! I quite like the Laurels in general. But the RB25DE + automatic only combination always has me a bit worried that it might be leaning too much to the gentlemanly side

Ha, yeah, they do come in DET from factory, but pretty difficult to find an unmolested example these days, unfortunately a lot get stripped of the running gear. The auto isn’t too bad if you get the RE4R01B which at least has the Dualmatic M-ATx. The RE4R01A would be a bit disheartening… Haven’t forgotten about the thread, currently waiting on the final piece of the DE+T puzzle to arrive and will update with the next phase.

Love the car! Keep the build thread going. Just a heads up, to avoid drilling or threading anything for brake conversions, they make thread inserts that convert M14x1.5 to M12x1.5. I used Time-Sert 12155's to mount my M14 350Z Brembo's on my M12 R32 hubs. Cheers.

On paper, the RB25DE NEO didn’t sound too bad, with a quoted 147kw/255nM at 10:1 compression. I was overall pretty impressed with the driveability, but definitely didn’t excite.

As luck would have it, I assumed that I would eventually bring some boost into the equation so started collecting parts before the car had even arrived… talk about counting your chickens before they’d hatched.

Whilst I initially considered a straight RB25DET NEO swap, I was intrigued by some threads and videos about the DE+T. Someone who I would call a mentor in the early 2000’s had an N15 SSS with a SR20DE+T and I remember the joy we had in that thing! So the project began.

One of the leading threads was THIS courtesy of @hey_aleks with the GOAT @DatsunBanana leading the charge thereafter (overall, excellent source, but was missing a few key bits and pieces which I aim to address here). Also an honourable mention to @666DAN for THIS thread.

After scrounging through Marketplace, there was a surprising amount of RB25 parts up for grabs, but by chance, found a seller on another platform in Sydney selling a complete set-up from a manual R34 which would make life much easier.

So before the car had even landed, I had myself a turbo…

From the outset, my goal was to replicate an OEM set-up as much as possible. This meant using as many factory parts I could, aiming for a reliable streeter with a solid yet modest power output. As a reference, this is how a C35 Laurel engine bay looks in Club S Turbo spec:

For anyone considering the following conversion, I can’t recommend enough to start collecting parts early. After 5 months or so of DE life, I’d finally completed acquiring my list of parts I thought I’d need. And as others have mentioned, no two DE+T conversions are alike.

Luckily, this turned out to be mostly spot-on. I’ll try to categorise the best I can in each post. Bear in mind, I’m a casual enthusiast not an expert, so I can’t confirm these parts will work for you and are perhaps not the best options, but so far, so good… also, some of the parts I’ve used are in excess of what you’ll need or for your application (marked with a *).

Fuel System

• Fuel Pump:

  TI Automotive (Walbro) GSS342 255 LPH fuel pump - Worked as expected/recommended. Can be installed pre-conversion to test run and make sure is working correctly. Only tip here is to try and get the R34 kit with the long strainer, I had to re-use the OEM one which wasn’t ideal.

• Injectors:

  RB25DET NEO - P/N: 16600-AA500 - ID Code: FBJE100 - Flow Rate: 370cc - Replace o-rings if using 2nd hand. I bought a set reconditioned already. Lube o-rings before installing in fuel rail.

• Fuel Rail:

  The NEO DE fuel rail works fine with DET blue injectors, direct plug and play. This was something no-one was able to answer for me so I bought a NEO DET fuel rail in case. As I discovered, DE fuel rail is suited to NEO Y-pipe intake manifold, whereas DET is suited to the NEO DET intake manifold due to vacuum line locations. This is because the DE fuel rail has the FPR and damper at opposite ends, whereas DET has them on the same end. I stuck with the Y-pipe so used the DE fuel rail.

• Fuel Pressure Regulator:

  DE or DET - As researched, same on both fuel rails i.e. P/N: 22670-5L310 so don’t need to upgrade.

• Fuel Filter*:

  Ryco Z201 (or genuine) - If this hasn’t been done recently, worth doing now since the fuel lines will be depressurised anyway.

• Fuel Pressure Sensor Adaptor*:

  Aeroflow AF138-05BLK 5/16" Barb With 1/8" Port Adapter - If monitoring fuel pressure, install with lines depressurised.

• Fuel Lines*:

  8mm EFI - Original lines split at ends when removing the fuel rail, so figured I’d replace anyway. Make sure to get EFI hose rated for the application.

Ignition

• Spark Plugs:

  NGK BCPR7ES × 6 - Was a bit of conjecture on these, but found a few sources recommending to use a colder plug at ~7 with 0.8-0.9mm gap. These came pre-gapped at 0.9mm (checked each one manually and were spot on), whereas the NGK BCPR7ES-11 is gapped at 1.1mm if you’re wondering.

• Coil Packs*:

  DE/DET are the same, so no need to upgrade or replace unless having pre-existing issues.

• Timing*:

  General consensus is to retard timing via CAS a few degrees or so to be safe. Plenty of info on this so do your own research, but will need a timing light. To be honest, I didn’t play around with this as I went the NISTUNE route.

Exhaust/Turbo (Hot Side)

• Exhaust Manifold:

  RB25DET NEO - From what I can tell, all the RB20/25 manifolds will work for this. Mine was off an R34, but the OEM log-style turbo manifold is perfectly fine for any basic set-ups, otherwise the sky is the limit for custom/aftermarket.

• Turbo:

  RB25DET NEO : OP6 45v4 (high-flowed*) - Again, I believe any of the RB20/25 turbos will mate to your respective manifold, but have read the RB20 turbo is too small for this application, making boost too early and running out of puff. If you’re on a strict budget, there are eBay turbos available these days for surprisingly cheap to suit, but buyer beware I guess.

• Dump/Front Pipe:

  JJR 3” Bellmouth Front / Dump Pipe for R34 GT-T* with exhaust wrap* - Figured I’d upgrade this straight anyway as the OEM dump pipe had the typical snapped studs. As luck would have it, the C35 has the same part numbers as the R34 from the turbo to the cat, so figured this would work and it did. Otherwise, again, I believe all RB20/25 dump pipes are compatible, but R33 front pipe wont mate to C35/R34 cat.

• Exhaust Manifold Gasket:

  Permaseal MG3042 - Again, numerous options available. Definitely worth replacing, OEM gasket will perish upon removal from non-turbo headers.

• Turbo/Dump Pipe Gaskets:

  TOG Gasket Kit (RB25DET) - Several options available. Quality was average, but did the job. Will need manifold to turbo (inlet) gasket; turbo to dump pipe (outlet) gasket; oil drain gasket; compressor outlet gasket.

• Heat Shields*:

  RB25DET NEO - The OEM hot side has heat shields on the exhaust manifold, turbo, dump pipe and front pipe. Ideally, try and grab these if possible.

• Catalytic Converter*:

  Venom 3” high-flow cat (400 Series) to suit R34 GTT - R34/C35 DE/DET all share same cat, but figured since I was going the full exhaust route I’d replace this too. Was a direct bolt-on, actually ran this for a while whilst still NA with OEM exhaust.

• o2 Sensor*:

  RB25DET NEO - DE/DET share same part number, so are interchangeable. I ended up using the DET sensor early on as my DE one was causing a CEL.

3 hours ago, MYC35 said:

Coil Packs*:

DE/DET are the same, so no need to upgrade or replace unless having pre-existing issues.

With the caveat that old coil packs that are a bit knackered might go fine on the NA engine but reveal that they're no good once you add some boost. Something to be ready for, depending on the particular car.

11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

With the caveat that old coil packs that are a bit knackered might go fine on the NA engine but reveal that they're no good once you add some boost. Something to be ready for, depending on the particular car.

Accessing the valley to change coil packs on the DE NEO is a pain in the ass too, so definitely worth doing if need be.

Will update the rest of the parts shortly.

Intake/Intercooler (Cold Side)

Part 1

I’ve broken this into 2-parts as the post-intercooler set-up is where a bit of creativity is required depending on whether you’re using the DE Y-Pipe intake manifold v DET intake manifold. My set-up is different again to most I’ve seen, but worked perfectly in the end.

• Air Box/Snorkel:

  If wanting to retain that OEM look, you’ll also need the air box and snorkel from a turbo engine. Fortunately, this part (16500-5L800) is shared amongst the turbo R33/R34/WC34/C35 so easy enough to find, bolted straight up as expected. If using a pod filter etc. won’t be needed.

• Air Filter*:

  Panel filter from DE same as DET. I replaced using a Ryco A360.

• Air Flow Meter:

  Another win here, R34 DET AFM is same as R34/C35 DE so doesn’t need replacing.

• AFM to Turbo Inlet Pipe:

  If using aforementioned OEM air box, you’ll also need this specific pipe to connect the two. I did notice a few aftermarket options, so easy enough to locate. This pipe has two additional inlets for the bypass valve (BOV) return and PCV return from cam cover if retaining both of these.

• Turbo/Intercooler/Intake Piping:

  On the C35, the front left of the chassis is mostly the same as the R34, so the OEM piping fits perfectly, including R34 SMIC and ducting. The C35 has the same pre-drilled holes which are easily removed with a 3”/76mm metal hole saw.

• Intercooler:

  I used the R34 SMIC which bolted up directly to the C35 chassis using the same brackets. Lines up perfectly with OEM piping as well. I believe the R34 Blitz FMIC would also work, but I didn’t want to hack into my front bar and relocate the horns. I believe the SMIC will be sufficient for any future needs.

• Silicon Hoses:

  Turbo outlet to intercooler piping uses 60mm/2.375” ID hose. Will need around 100mm length to connect the two.

Intake/Intercooler (Cold Side)

Part 2

If you’re using the RB25DET NEO intake manifold, you can carry on using the OEM configuration. However, after some to-and-from, I decided to stick with the DE NEO Y-Pipe. Finding a complete manifold with throttle body, IACV and the rest of the parts needed to make it work wasn’t particularly easy. After seeing many successful conversions with the Y-Pipe, it made sense to stick with it, knowing everything worked as it should.

My initial plan was to use the DET J-Pipe in a reverse configuration as others have done, however after test fitting found a couple of issues, mainly fouling the power steering fluid reservoir (right where the bypass valve sits), the need to cut the pipe, and it didn’t align with the intercooler piping.

After some brainstorming and chance finds, I came to the following solution:

• Mid Pipe:

  2.5"/63mm Turbo Flange Pipe (Black) - This is actually a generic pipe meant to be an adaptor for a GReddy BOV. Conveniently, the same seller also had a GReddy BOV adaptor for an RB25, a match made in heaven…

  

• BOV Adaptor:

  GReddy BOV Adaptor for Nissan Skyline - A bit of reverse engineering here… through some stroke of luck, the canter on the adaptor actually worked perfectly to push the bypass valve away from the reservoir too.

  

• Bypass Valve (BOV):

  Turbosmart Kompact Plumb Back BOV - Upon install, the OEM BOV worked, with a minor issue of having the vacuum feed pointing upwards. My OCD had me looking for a solution and a bit of luck found a local seller with a brand new Turbosmart BOV for an RB25 for cheap. This has the benefit of a swivel on the vacuum feed which allowed for the perfect fit.

• Bypass Valve (BOV) Return to Air Intake Hose:

  Custom - The OEM system uses a joint aluminium hose with the PCV return and BOV return connected. This didn’t work for obvious reasons as the BOV is in a totally different spot now. After taking a few measurements, I went to SCA and went through the hose bin to find a generic rubber hose with the correct ID. This ended up being a Gates 02-1012 heater hose. After a bit of grinding, I was able to cut the OEM pipe into bits and rejoin using the Gates hose and hose clamps.

  

• PCV Return:

  OEM - As above, once separated from the BOV return, this can be used as necessary. Just need to trim the DE PCV hose from metal pipe to cam cover as you’ll see on install.

• Mid Pipe to Throttle Body:

  2.75”/70mm to 2.5”/63mm Silicon Elbow

• Hose Clamps*:

  Stainless steel as required.

Intake Manifold

NB: If using RB25DET NEO intake manifold, you can disregard the following.

A couple of considerations when working with the DE NEO intake manifold. Either way, the Y-Pipe and top half of intake manifold will need to be removed during the install to access the spark plugs (I also used this opportunity to paint the manifold and cam covers).

The whole theory behind this Y-Pipe is the introduction of a vacuum-operated butterfly valve which opens and closes via an electronic solenoid. Plenty of info on this, but it seems to be common opinion that it would hinder a boosted set-up.

I’ve seen a couple of options to eliminate the butterfly valve, either by removing the internal butterfly plate itself (connected with a couple of screws) or disconnecting the solenoid plug.

I decided to eliminate the whole mechanism, which is held in with 3-bolts. I then blanked the void with a washer, bolt, Nyloc nut and sealant. As a bonus, you can now delete/block-off the vacuum tank which gives you a plenum nipple for a boost gauge or bypass valve feed.

This also allowed me to remove the plastic clip securing aforementioned vacuum tank hose, which can be drilled out leaving an M6 thread for another vacuum feed (NB: obviously don’t drill this hole with the manifold on as the metal shavings are going straight into the intake). You could always tee off the single feed, but I liked having them separate.

Oil Feed / Return

I originally planned to use a brass tee from the oil pressure sensor on the intake side of the motor:

However, as the project evolved, I decided to introduce some gauges including oil pressure and oil temp. As a result, I decided to go down the sandwich plate route.

I also utilised the 3/4 BSPT bung on the DE block for the oil drain, which seems to be a common option. A bung in the sump would also work well, but I was trying to keep this simple. Apparently this bung is to do with the old VCT system on earlier models…

Anyway, my measurements/parts as follows:

Oil Feed Line = AN4 @ 1200mm

Oil Drain Line = AN10 @ 300mm

• Sandwich Plate:

  GREDDY Oil Filter ‘Sandwich Plate’ P/N: 12002801 - Direct fit to RB25. Has three outlets inc. 1 x M12x1.25; 2 x 1/8 PT

• Sandwich Plate to Oil Feed Line:

  Raceworks RWF-730-04BK - M12 x 1.25 Male to AN4 Male

• Oil Feed Line:

  AN4 Straight Braided Hose 48"

• Oil Feed Line to Turbo Oil Feed:

  Raceworks RWF-730-04BK - M12 x 1.25 Male to AN4 Male

• Oil Drain Flange:

  Turbo Drain Flange Fitting AN10 Male (50.8mm between holes)

• Oil Drain Bend/s*:

  AN10 Female to Male 45 Degree Elbow - I was able to make the oil drain hose fit without the elbows, but the elbows gave me more space/flexibility on either end.

• Oil Drain Hose:

  Stainless Steel Turbo Drain Hose AN10 (300mm)

• Oil Drain Hose to Block:

  BSPT 3/4 To Male AN10 752-10BLK

• Thread Sealant:

  Permatex Ultra Grey - Had this left over from the diff bung and seemed suitable, but numerous products to choose from. Use to seal threads inc. 3/4 BSPT bung in block. Don’t use PTFE tape on oil fittings (past experience).

Edited May 15May 15 by MYC35
Formatting

Engine Management

• ECU:

  R34 GTT Manual ECU - P/N: 23710-AA500 - The C35 Laurel's only came in automatic, with the RE4R01A (basic T-bar shifter) or the optional RE4R01B (tiptronic). These shared the same set-up as an R34 whereas the RB25DE (NA) models had the transmission controlled via a separate module, aptly named the Transmission Control Module (TCM). The RB20DE & RB25DET models have the TCM contained within the Engine Control Module (ECM/ECU) as per page AT-3 of the Service Manual. The decision to go the manual ECU route was due to a robust discussion on here in relation to the TCM, whereas it was believed the GTT Auto ECU could conflict with the TCM. Long story short (and would love to hear how @Kinkstaah went as he had a fair bit of involvement with this in the OG days), I went the R34 GTT Manual ECU and it worked flawlessly (inc. use of tiptronic) except for the side-effect of losing the gear indicator on the instrument cluster (as also experienced by @albyz34gt ). I will tinker with this one day and update if I ever find a solution (or probably go manual...).

• NISTUNE*:

  There are numerous different approaches to tuning the turbo conversion, and can confirm the car will start and run on the R34 GTT ECU without issue (as reported elsewhere), however my intention was to have car tuned for longevity with the hope of making it somewhat reliable. I liked that NISTUNE was an Australian-based platform with plenty of support even in this day and age. I ordered directly via NISTUNE, sent my ECU via Australia Post, and received it back shortly after installed. Obviously, you'll need to find a tuner to get the actual tune done...

• Error Codes/Check Engine Light (CEL) re Secret Squirrel Tweak:

  I was well prepared for the CEL due to the results of those before me, mainly due to the lack of the Traction Control System (TCS) the R34 ECU expects to see. As a result, the DE loom is missing 3 x signal wires which the ECU wants to receive a certain voltage from (Pin 47 = 2.6v, Pin 51 = 3.4v & Pin 53 = 4.7v). By using the 5V feed from Pin 48, you can add your own wiring to reach these voltages using diodes. If you have any CEL's before the conversion, I suggest to buy the PLMS or ECU Talk cable and diagnose this first (see next) otherwise you'll be chasing your tail. The most helpful thread for tackling this was found reading through THIS but also referenced THIS. The original thread re Secret Squirrel Tweak seemed to have been deleted, so I could never find a wiring diagram but after successfully clearing the CEL using two different methods (mainly out of curiousity), hopefully my diagram will be of assistance. I will cover the actual install method in subsequent posts.

  

• PLMS Cable (Consult Cable)*:

  The C35 (and R34) both utilise the Consult system to connect to the ECU. There are two reputable suppliers of this cable - PLMS or ECU-Talk, both Australian-based. Both are interchangeable i.e. PLMS works with ECU-Talk software. I bought mine via NISTUNE. At this stage, have found ECU-Talk's free Consult Software to be super easy to use for reading error codes with the PLMS cable via an old-school Windows laptop.