Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

247.4rwkw

R33GTST

Z32 AFM

GCG High Flow - R33 exhaust housing (not vg30)

3" Batmbl bellmouth dump --> Catco Cat --> 3.5" Kakimoto with 2 mufflers

S15 injectors 450cc

Tomei Fuel Pump

Turbtech boost valve

18psi - running back to 16psi

Stock Airbox

450x300x76 FMIC (Justjap)

Full boost actually comes on earlier on the street in 4th than the dyno indicates. 1st and 2nd gear not quite.

Tuned at MRC Castle Hill - Mark (Top Bloke and good tuner)

post-11777-1200910069_thumb.jpg

post-11777-1200910755_thumb.jpg

Edited by benl1981
  • 2 weeks later...

R33 gtst Rb25

Z32 afm

splitfire coils

sard fuel reg

tomei metal head gasket

hybrid intercooler

garrett GT3540 turbo with .82 rear

tial 38mm wastegate.

Apexi power fc

Blitz sbc id3 boost controller.

etc etc

Makes 300hp @ 14psi on a safe tune as it needs to get me to work daily.

Just got it back today and quite happy with the result. Will post up dyno chart if i can get it on my computer

Mark at godzilla tuned it. did a good job

R34 GTT RB25DET NEO

everything stock except:

K&N intake

dump-front-metal cat-hipower silent

avcr - 0.7bar(10spi) to be exact

safc2

coilpack+sparkplugs

serviced(oil change+filter)

= 279.9 rwhp = 208.something something rwkw

will post result soon

post-40804-1201921050_thumb.jpg

Edited by lcy

Sorry mate, though you could've edited my first post....

My car spat out 201.7rwkw on 13psi with split dump and screamer, big cat and two mufflers, jjr front mount, power fc and avcr. Turbo lasted 5 weeks so my gt3076r is getting built as we speak, along with 550cc injectors hopefully will get over 250rwkw on around 16psi.

  • 2 weeks later...

hi i have got 260hp/195kw with the following:

dyno dynamics dyno on shootout mode

standard turbo

gtr front mount

dual stage boost controler 13psi

blitz sonic power pod in closed box

modified entry plenum

3'bell mouth dump pipe high flow cat and katimoto cat back

standard computer

standard evrything else

dynochartwithaf080308edit.jpg

MODIFICATIONS AND SPECIFICATIONS

1998 NISSAN SKYLINE R33 GTS2.5T

40TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION.

2.5 litre twin overhead cam straight six standard motor, never openned.

Mechanical Nismo Selective 1.5 L.S.D. diff

Nismo G Max II clutch

Tein coil over height and ride adjustable

Super advan mags (powdercoated black) with 245/255 Yokohama AVS102 tyres

Hicas lock out [individual tie rod ends]

Whiteline adjustable nolethene bushes for camber/castor at all four wheels

HKS triple layer dry pod filter

Z32 Mass Air Flow Meter

SARD fuel pressure regulator

555 Nismo injectors (yellow top colour coded)

Splitfire coils

Blitz 700x600x70 fmic (anodised blue)

HKS IV electronic vacuum controller (boost controller)

Blitz turbo timer

Apexi turbo boost gauge in custom s/s holder

Greddy gauges x3:oil pressure, oil temp, exhaust temp, mounted in a dash pod

Superslide carbon fibre adjustable rear wing

Alloy oil cooler with stainless steel braided lines

Apexi alloy radiator

Cusco high pressure radiator cap

D1 oil catch can

Master cylinder brake brace stop bracket

Project mU front discs [brakes]

Braided stainless steel brake hoses [full kit]

90mm exhaust with HKS Hyper 120mm s/s muffler

Cusco front tower strut bar

Garrett GT3076 WG turbo with 100mm fluted inlet

Custom braided oil and water lines to turbo

HKS 40mm external wastegate [18psi spring rate]

HKS cast low mount manifold extrude honed and flowed

Custom alloy intake pipe

Custom s/s split dump and front pipe

Nismo 500hp fuel pump with 12volt power feed

Tomei adjustable exhaust cam pulley

Tomei Poncams 256 degrees/8.5mm lift

Apexi Power Full Computer with Hand Controller

Alpine MP3 player and 4 x coaxial speakers

300kph Nismo speedo

Carbra

SAAS/Momo leather steering wheel

Razo gearknob

Razo accelerator pedal

Custom holder for hand controller

Custom grills on front bar

Custom s/s front bar braces

Custom rear boot lid spoiler trim

Custom stainless steel heat shield around turbo

Custom EVC mount on steering wheel cover

Odyssey fully sealed gel battery and custom mount

External wastegate, manifold, and turbo exhaust housing high temp coated

Stock Internal RB25DET

HKS 3037 Pro S turbo kit, 56T A/R 0.68

HKS adjustable internal wastegate

HKS Stainless steel split dump pipe

HKS Front pipe

3" decat pipe

HKS Silent High Power stainless steel catback exhaust

HKS 3" alloy intake pipe

Apexi Power FC

Apexi Power FC Boost control kit

Apexi Power Intake Pod filter

Blitz LM Front Mount Intercooler

Nissan Z32 AFM

Nismo fuel pump

Nismo 555cc injectors

R.I.P.S custom washer bottle/oil catch tank with -10 lines

Custom black radiator air deflector

Exedy heavy duty clutch

Splitfire coils

Fuel purge system fully removed

Alloy radiator

NGK BCPR6ES spark plugs

95 octane

270rwkw on 17psi and only using crappy 95octane fuel

Picture016.jpg

Picture017.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

R33 Series 2 GTST

3" Split front dump, high flow cat, 3 inch zaust.

FMIC

Greddy EBC

Walbro FP

Fairly Hot day, BP Ultimate 98 octance

183.4rwkw @ 11psi

Edited by dnbutts
Guest Joeyz
Hi all

Hi-flow Turbo - GCG

Exhaust cam gear - Adjustable Greedy

Adjustable fuel pressure regulater - Turbosmart

500hp intank fuell pump - Walbro

Z32 AFM

NGK Irridum spark plugs

Shell V-Power Racing Fuel

3" Exhaust

FMIC - Greedy

244.9rwkw

Update

Tomei Pon Cams

Sard 700cc Injectors

Now Getting 270rwkw on 1.2bar/18psi

RB25

GT30/40

splitfire coils

45mm ITS gate

GReddy intake

80mm TB

550cc Inj

EMS Stinger

blah blah blah

made 270rwkw @ 18psi on ovaboost dyno (through a built auto), so its very reliable accurate power =D

Insane to drive, over 150kg of stereo gear in boot and have no traction in 1st + 2nd

Short list of mods:

RB25det spec 2

GT3582R .82ar

Jun style intake

90mm throttle body

550cc Delphi top feed low impedance injectors

JGY fuel rail

Aeromotive FPR

Walbro 255hp fuel pump

Tial 44mm v band waste gate

Hallman boost controller

3" ss turbo back exhaust

Top mount exhaust manifold

Apexi Safc 2

Apexi ITC

93 pump gas

Spec stage 3 clutch

Synchronic BOV

FMIC

Z32 MAF blow threw

This is a 2698lb with driver in it 240sx.

We had some problems with the boost creep so we could only set it at 11 psi but as you can see it creped up to 13.5 or so at about 6100 rpms. Also had some problems with my coil packs.

This is wheel horse power not in shoot out mode.

Correction factors were

77deg. F

60% humidity

60" of mercury

Intake temp was 90deg F

Car pulls like mad all the way to red line. I am very happy with the car as is but I'll more then likely pull the exhaust manifold off and fix the creep problem.

post-42695-1206654216_thumb.jpg

post-42695-1206654236_thumb.jpg

Edited by JonTurpening

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...