Jump to content
SAU Community

Everyone with idle missfire probs read!!


Slide
 Share

Recommended Posts

A few people have posted a thread on this but there a heaps of people that musnt have found it.

This is the diagnostic guide for skyline owners (most of em anyway)

For most people this guide should give you a good indication of what is going wrong according to your stock ecu

i did the test on mine and it came back with an error code of 12 which is the afm i replaced it and it now runs like brand new.

give it a go before you pay someone else to TRY and do it and save yourself some money.

This particular one was posted by Skyline_Boy

and i am not trying get praise for following up on his thread i am simply bringing it to everyones attention so here it is aswell, It can also be found in the diy section of the site.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35733

this includes small diagram for mode changing

Hope this will tell you whats wrong with your car.

ECCS has 5 modes :

Mode 1 - Exhaust Gas Sensor monitor.

When the engine is warm (closed loop) the green led turns on for lean, off for rich. It should alternate. When it is cold (open loop) it will be either on or off.

Mode 2 - Mixture ratio feedback control monitor.

During closed loop operation the red led should turn on and off simultaneously with the green led when the mixture is controlled within the specified values. During open loop the red led stays on or off.

Mode 3 - Self Diagnosis. See below

Mode 4 - Switches On/Off diagnosis.

The inspection lamp monitors the idle switch portion of the throttle valve switch, the starter switch, vehicle speed sensor an other switches with an on/off condition.

Mode 5 - Real Time diagnosis.

Same as Mode 3, but it flashes the errors as they occur.

To select the various modes :

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35733

for picture of way to select modes

With the ignition ON take a small screwdriver and turn it clockwise. the LED's will flash together, first once, then pause, then twice, then pause, then three times. When this happens turn the screwdriver counter clockwise. The ECU is now in mode 3 which reads out the fault codes on the LED's. It will cycle through all stored fault codes.

Red LED = 10

Green = 1

some computers only have 1 red led but the principle is the same

If the red led flashes 4 times and the green one flashes 5 times that means you have code 45. It will repeat this if this is the only fault. If there are more faults it will flash all the faults and repeat.

The ECU will reset when you turn the ignition off.

11 - Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor

12 - Air Flow Meter

13 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

14 - Vehicle Speed Sensor

21 - Ignition Signal

22 - Fuel Pump

23 - Idle Switch

24 - Throttle Valve Switch

25 - Idle Speed Control Valve

26 - Boost Pressure Sensor

27 -

28 - Cooling Fan Circuit

29 -

30 -

31 - ECM

32 - EGR Function

33 - Heated Oxygen Sensor

34 - Knock Sensor

35 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor

36 - EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer

37 - Knock Sensor

38 - Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2)

41 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor

42 - Fuel Temperature Sensor

43 - Throttle Position Sensor

45 - Injector Leak

47 - Crankshaft Position Sensor

51 - Injector Circuit

53 - Oxygen Sensor

54 - A/T Control

55 - No Malfunction

63 - No. 6 Cylinder Misfire

64 - No. 5 Cylinder Misfire

65 - No. 4 Cylinder Misfire

66 - No. 3 Cylinder Misfire

67 - No. 2 Cylinder Misfire

68 - No. 1 Cylinder Misfire

71 - Random Misfire

72 - TWC Function right hand bank

76 - Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank

77 - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit

82 - Crankshaft Position Sensor

84 - Automatic Transmission Diagnostic Communication Line

87 - Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit

91 - Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank

94 - TCC Solenoid Valve

95 - Crank Position Cog

98 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

101 - Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank

103 - Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit

105 - EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit

108 - Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit

111 - Inhibitor Switch

112 - Automatic Transmission Speed Sensor

113 - Automatic Transmission 1st Signal

114 - Automatic Transmission 2nd Signal

115 - Automatic Transmission 3rd Signal

116 - Automatic Transmission 4th Signal

118 - Automatic Transmission Shift Solenoid Valve A

121 - Automatic Transmission Shift Solenoid Valve B

123 - Automatic Transmission Overrun Clutch Solenoid Valve

124 - Automatic Transmission TOR Conv Solenoid Valve

125 - Automatic Transmission Line Pressure Solenoid

126 - Automatic Transmission Throttle Position Sensor

127 - Automatic Transmission Engine Speed Signal

128 - Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all, my V35's front balljoints and lower control arm bushes are shot, so will have to buy some new ones. Just want to check if these are the correct ones and if y'all have any places within AU that supply these parts, or would I be better off shipping some in from the US (z1, concept z, etc)? I'm currently in ACT.  I'm looking for sparkplugs as well but can't seem to find them locally. I found this site that sells Mevotech ball joints: https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/front-ball-joint-lower-outer-nissan-z33v35am35-p-1990.html Lower control arm: https://justjap.com/products/sterling-front-lower-control-arm-r-h-straight-fits-nissan-m35-stagea-v35-skyline-z33-350z?variant=44217571377351&currency=AUD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Advanced feed&utm_content=Sterling Front Lower Control Arm R%2FH (Straight) Fits Nissan M35 Stagea%2C V35 Skyline %26 Z33 350Z&utm_campaign=gs-2022-07-20&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwps-zBhAiEiwALwsVYYAaGCq4d8TaCWYiuo62l_F9zi69FBW9ErruC5gpxu_euNqnxjPa_BoC6FcQAvD_BwE
    • Hey just wanting to know if a R34 gtr wheel hub will bolt onto a R34gt rear knuckle?  I am doing a 350z lsd conversion and I came across an issue with the rear axles fitting into the wheel hub as the spline count is different. I think the r33/4 (GTR)wheel hubs are 32 spline while the standard 3x2 rear axles are about 28,  the 350z rear axles I’m using are also 32 spline so I don’t see why it won’t fit apart from where the hubs bolt onto the knuckle  I am not 100% sure about any of this and would like some info before I go mix n match and help would be appreciated.🙏  
    • There is none when used in the radius rods. I am a strong advocate of sphericals in that location.
    • Oh damn, thats seriously cool. I have the Thrustmaster T248 which is the entry level one. Its really good but I have no basis for comparison as I've never used a better one. I'd like to change the pedals for the pressure ones (cant remember the name) and get a proper frame and seat because I just have a stand for the pedals and wheel now and I need to brace them against things so they dont move when I'm trying to pull up after a long straight! 🤣 EDIT: These ones; https://www.thrustmaster.com/products/t-lcm-pedals/
    • Pulled the lazy pin and ordered the 4 new calipers for just over $600
×
×
  • Create New...