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AutoSpeed - YLD32

NismoGirl

By NismoGirl,
in Queensland

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NismoGirl Grand Master

NismoGirl

Posted
Posted

Our Jon in AutoSpeed!!! This car was one of the best and cleanest looking R32's around IMO. I loved it.

If you can remember back to our article Pre-Owned Performance - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-t you’ll know that the Nissan R32 Skyline GTS is a much better vehicle than its reputation suggests. No, it doesn’t have the GT-R’s giant-killing RB26DETT or the R33’s RB25DET but it’s still a great overall package. Consider the R32 GTS’s modest 1320kg kerb mass and you’ll come to appreciate why the oh-so-smooth RB20DET makes it a good thing.

And John ******* late 1993-built R32 is just the machine to prove its potential.

John picked up his Type M R32 about 2 years ago with just an aftermarket filter under the bonnet. John liked the Skyline’s smoothness, refinement and style but – having owned a VR4-powered Cordia, an 11 second Torana, RX-2 and various go-fast Commodores – its all-out acceleration didn’t get his blood rushing.  

There was no hesitation when John made his first mods – they were so obvious every man and his dog can tell you that the stock exhaust and intercooler are hopelessly restrictive. The factory exhaust system came out and John offered a 3 inch mandrel system to the back of the turbocharger. Oh, and John also replaced the existing aftermarket filter with a new HKS pod fed by a 3 inch cold air pipe.

John shopped around for an upgrade intercooler to replace the factory item and settled on the popular Hybrid 600 x 300 x 76mm core. This is a pretty big ‘cooler so its no surprise the bumper had to be sliced to make space. The intercooler plumbing was fabricated by John and his brother-in-law.  

The R32 isn’t John’s sole project car but when he discovered a Mines computer hiding in a R32 Skyline half-cut he bought (to re-power a Sil80) he roped it in for action on this machine. We’re told the Mines ECU eliminates or lifts the speed cut, boost cut and rev limit. John had been told all about the standard Nissan ceramic tubocharger’s reliability problems at high boost so he wisely kept the boost increase fairly mild – just 10 psi. A home-made bleed valve and restrictor arrangement allows this increase.  

Power at this stage was about 215hp at the wheels on Paramount Performance’s Dyno Dynamics chassis dyno. Not bad, but the engine had the intercooling and breathing capacity to support a lot more...

As John pondered a turbo upgrade that would safely allow more boost, a mate offered for sale a second-hand Mitsubishi TD06-19C turbo with internal wastegate. Perfect! Or almost perfect...

To fit the TD06 John retained the standard RB exhaust manifold but used longer studs and a 12mm spacer plate to mount the turbo further away from the engine (to provide necessary clearance). We’re told the TD06 had the same stud pattern as the factory exhaust manifold so there were no problems with mounting hole alignment.  

The bigger huffer didn’t give the same sort of throttle response as the old turbocharger but it did provide a lot more top-end power. With boost pressure set to a high of 21 psi, the TD06 pushed 270hp at the rear wheels. On the downside, it had problems over-boosting and John tried a bigger exhaust housing to fix the situation. This successfully prevented over-boosting but caused unacceptable lag. Top-end power also went virtually unchanged.  

A newer, more efficient turbocharger was what the doctor ordered.

Recognising the limits of the TD06, John stepped up to a GT28-type ‘440hp’ roller-bearing turbocharger that is designed to suit CA and SR-series Nissan fours. Unfortunately, the RB20DET engine employs a T3-style turbo flange while the CA and SRs use a T25/T28-flange. At this stage most people would leap to the conclusion that an aftermarket exhaust manifold is needed – but not Do-It-Yourself John!

With the help of John’s brother-in-law, the original turbine flange plate was cut off the RB manifold and a drilled-to-suit 32mm thick mounting plate was welded on. John says the original manifold was heated and maintained at a high temperature while the new adaptor plate was welded on using stainless rod. A key factor to avoid cracking is to control the rate of cooling once the plate has been welded – let the manifold cool rapidly and it will lead to cracking problems.  

At the same time the turbo was being swapped, the existing Mines computer was ripped out of the passenger’s kick panel and a plug-in MicroTech LT12 ECU took over. The MicroTech unit contains a MAP load sensor so John made the most of it and removed the factory airflow meter to reduce intake restriction. A set of six modified Skyline GT-R injectors and a Malpassi adjustable reg team with a R33 GT-R in-tank pump and a Bosch 909 high-flow external pump. The ignition is stock.  

With its new roller-bearing turbocharger and tuned MicroTech computer, the car punched out a fairly easy 307hp at the wheels on 18 psi. Interestingly, John then decided to alter the cam timing (using custom adjustable sprockets) and found about 13hp more at the wheels - with only a touch more lag. John says the current cam timing specs are: inlet cam timing retarded 2 degrees and exhaust cam timing advanced 6 degrees.  

As you may have noticed in our pics, a polished oil breather catch can and a GReddy Type S blow-off valve were also installed at this time.  

The standard Nissan driveline is very strong, but when you add a no-slip ‘600hp’ brass button clutch, the poor ol’ gearbox doesn’t receive much slack when the rear tyres hook up. This is John’s fourth gearbox – he’s blown a second gear, third gear and an output shaft! The diff is the original viscous LSD – no problems with it so far.  

John is pretty keen on the drift scene and has his R32 set up for easily controllable power slides. Tein HR coil-overs, pillow-ball upper mounts, a R32 GT-R rear swaybar and a disabled HICAS system give John the handling balance and response that’s essential when getting sideways at, well, a considerable speed... If he ever gets into trouble, John can always stand on the R33 Skyline brakes which are currently being bolted in.  

Cosmetically, John’s R32 is surgically clean. The factory white paint is immaculate, he’s removed the standard rear spoiler and the bumper is a base-spec R32 item that’s sliced to suit the ‘cooler. The wheels fitted during our photo shoot are 18 x 8s wearing 235/40 Bridgestone S02s.  

Inside, John’s car is inexplicably fitted with a R32 GT-R-like trim. John says he’s seen other GTS Type Ms with a conventional interior trim, so we can only guess the GT-R trim package came out in the late-model R32 Type Ms. John has also added an AutoMeter boost gauge, aftermarket steering wheel, gear knob and pedals plus a JVC MP3 sound system with a 12 inch sub. All the essentials.  

At this point in time it seems John has taken his R32 GTS about as far as he intends. As a result, he wouldn’t mind selling it to put some extra cash toward his other project – his dyno queen/show car Sil80.  

Hmmm. If this R32 is only a ‘warm up’, we dare to imagine what that l’il beast will be like!

Footnote - if you’ve got around approximately AUD$23,000, John is willing to let his R32 go to you. If you’re genuinely interested, John can be contacted at [email protected]

WHITE R32's skyline which I believe he recently sold to fund his new project. Interesting write up, I never knew most of that stuff.

Pics below.

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WHITE R32 Grand Master

WHITE R32

Posted
Posted

thanks guys much appretiated..... yeah sadly its gone now but now i have a sil80 ground up project yeah i know i know how could u go to an s13.... but i cant even answer that myself :cheers: what started as a quick accident repair and touch up is now a full strip and full respray inc engine bay full susp redo inc coilovers engine mods etc etc etc lol

actually the gearbox count not as bad as that when they rang and got details i thought mick said how do the rb20 gearboxes hold up and i said ive broken 3rd in my first but ive seen broken output shafts and second gears.... either that or i heard the wrong question or just gave the wrong response.... bad phone service does that to you....so yeah i only ever broke 1 box myself...

the ol' 20 boxes held up good i rekon like everything just depends how u drive it im sure i could break a 25 box also but it would take more thrashin hehehe....

i just hope the new owner respects the car and the power it has (albeit not massive hp but enough to get u into trouble) and has fun at the same time!!!!!!!

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      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
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