Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I've just pulled the turbo off my GTT which is 7/99 series one and put it next to one from an R33 series one.

First thing is that on the side of the compressor covers the R33 one has 45 v 1 whereas the R34 one has 45 v 4 on it.

The compressor covers appear identical.

Now I know this goes contrary to popular opinion but the R34 compressor wheel appears to be metal just like the R33 one.

On the R33 compressor side outlet there is a 1 cast on the outside and a 3 printed on the inside. On the R34 these are both 2's.

On the exhaust housing on the r33 one is cast 307B 2IU, a bit further round there is an 8.. The equivalent on the R34 one is 527A OP6 and further round a 9.

On the other side of the exhaust housing we have F 2IU (R33) and E OP6 (R34).

One thing that is definitely noticable but a bit hard to measure is that the R34 exhaust housing is bigger than the other one. Also the entry port from the manifold is wider on the R34 by about 1mm or so in both directions.

Anyway, I just thought I'd post this for general information. Perhaps people can add their knowledge to it. Maybe if someone has an R33 series 2 turbo or R32 one off the car in front of them they could post the equivalent details.

post-7957-1151318629.jpg

post-7957-1151318643.jpg

Search words : identify R33 R34 NEO turbo difference 45v1 45v2 45v3 45v4

What kind of sound does it make when you tap it with your fingernail?

I had assumed my R34 turbo was plastic/nylon/whatever till I did this and it sounded tinny so I dug out the old one to check and they seem to be the same. They also look the same as the pic you have posted.

Hmm, What does yours say, 45v????

Yeah, we should link this to the Stock Boost for R34 thread. The R34 compressor wheel is nylon plastic crap and isnt as strong as the 33.

But as I also mentioned, some series 2's came with a steel wheel but, as soon as i find solid evidence, ill post.

Hmm, it's looking like the other turbo I have is series 2 R33. Can one of you R33 owners look at that link I posted above and tell if the car is series one or two. That's the car this turbo came from.

Anyone want to post a pic of the turbo side on so we can see the size of the exhaust housing?

This 45v1.2.3. thing is weird.

Abo i'm 95% sure that's a SII R33.

* Bonnet lips down over the center grill.

* Headlights (im pretty sure on this part).

* The panel at the rear between the bottom of the boot and the top-middle of the bumper (S1 is a clear plastic from memory).

  • 4 months later...

Series 1, S2, S3 GTT use different turbo

"14411-AA100"

s1 is nylon plastic with single blade

post-1812-1124278430.jpg

"14411-AA110"

s2 is metal with twin blade, same size as s1

post-1812-1124278548.jpgpost-1812-1124278746.jpg

"14411-AB000"

s3 is metal with twin blade, made by garrett instead of nissan, bigger than s2

post-1812-1124278846.jpgpost-1812-1124278960.jpg

basicly, If your NEO engine cover W/O RED wording...that's S2 or S3

more detail about difference between s1,2,3 (japanese)

http://2style.net/r34sedan/hikaku/hikakutop.htm

Edited by Maxx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
    • I _think_ that one has a christmas tree or some other retainer spike into a hole in that panel under it. Come in under it with thin scredrivers and just pry it gently up. If you rip the ears off the retainer pin....so what? Just stick it back down after with a bit of race tape and carry on with life.
×
×
  • Create New...