Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i bought a turbo a t04e & its in good order but im still gonna give it a rebuild only because i dont want 2 be driving to work & all of a sudden something pops.

It more or so wont happen in a day, week or even months but its just peice of mind & i dont want 2 be pulling out the turbo again.

its just a pain in the arse.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7869-vg30-turbo/page/2/#findComment-115614
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It didn't actually have much shaft movement from side to side, it had a little end float not much though but just before i put it in i noticed it felt slightly notchy. I would spin it really lightly and it would kinda grab.

Yer.. I am going to be good and removing turbo's.

Because of the custom dump pipe the bolts are really really hard to get to as a socket's sides are to thick and it hits the side of the dump pipe yet a spanner is to big to fit in there.

arggggggggg. Well on goes the RB20 one again today.

Lol Meggala.. I knew you were watching.. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7869-vg30-turbo/page/2/#findComment-115692
Share on other sites

While were on the turbo thing I was thinking of making up a manifold to hold twin Turbo on my RB20, would twin RB20 turbos work fine and what RwKw would you get also what pitfalls can you see in doing this. I know I am stealing your thread Andrew but just another idea down this road..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7869-vg30-turbo/page/2/#findComment-115695
Share on other sites

Trying to get one RB20 turbo in/out is bad enough imagine two.

There would be no room.

Also the spool time would be long on a RB20 maybe max boost at 5500rpm or even 6000rpm.

The RB20DETT turbo's i belive are smaller than the RB20 turbo's.

The only improvement twin makes over single is more airflow at a lower boost. i.e effiency is better and a cooler charge.

I'm not definate on that but.. :D I'm no expert.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7869-vg30-turbo/page/2/#findComment-115698
Share on other sites

I had a look on their www site.. They want an arm and a leg.

If i was going to pay 1800+ on a second hand turbo, would i be better off spending a little more and getting....

http://www.gcg.com.au/catalogue/Turbo%20Ki...rol/tk_p.html#5

I think these are dual ceramic BB turbo's. 450HP i believe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7869-vg30-turbo/page/2/#findComment-115813
Share on other sites

joel I spoke to some one who had his rb 20 turbo hiflowed and had very good results. his previous turbo was a vg30 hiflow and he said that the rb 20 hiflow spooled much earlier aand was more driveable

.r31 heaven to be honest I wouldn't even waste my time considering the idea f the twins on an rb 20 on an rb 30 fine any day of the weel but not a 20 there arent enough gains top be had

m

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7869-vg30-turbo/page/2/#findComment-115818
Share on other sites

There stuff is normally pretty good cont though. Thoses trust turbos are supposed to be a lot better than the VG in regard to lag and they are cheap to rebuild.

You could look at getting your turbo highflowed with plain bearing, is a few hundred cheaper but a little extral lag.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7869-vg30-turbo/page/2/#findComment-115880
Share on other sites

has any1 actually got quotes for hiflowing standard turbos,or even vg30 turbos? i can get mine done easily at JPC for next to nothing, what do u think u could get upto powerwise with a rebuilt hiflowed rb20 turbo? off course theyd put in steel wheels so u can boost it a bit more

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7869-vg30-turbo/page/2/#findComment-115888
Share on other sites

lowlux, I have been looking at the turbo upgrade question for a while now, still dont have a clue which way to go, however one thing to give some serious thought to is that unless you are getting mates rates, you get what you pay for - be really careful of getting a cheap highflow, as I have heard some nasty stories of these going pretty wrong, quesitons I would be asking:

Are both wheels being upgraded,

What type of wheels are being used,

how much boost can the highflow efficiently produce/handle,

what is the max hp rating and at what boost,

at what rpm can I expect to come on boost and when will it make full boost,

do you have a compressor map (determine the efficient boost range)

and, what sort of warranty does the turbo come with.

I have been known to be a little paranoid, but I have learnt the hard way over the years, and would much sooner pay extra to get a good quality job done

Steve

EDIT: and I would be chasing a full written quote before commencing work or handing over cash

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7869-vg30-turbo/page/2/#findComment-116457
Share on other sites

yeah I think low lux is in good hands with jpc.

I like you steve have been in a dillema and in the end whimped out and got an r33 turbo cause I couldn't be stuffed with the running around and the number of idiots out there. my cefiro could be a very different story though cause the missus wont be driving it :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7869-vg30-turbo/page/2/#findComment-116650
Share on other sites

Lowlux, good to hear you found a decent workshop that doesnt charge an arm and a leg. I wasnt trying to bag anyone, just like to be cautious. Would be interested to hear what you think of the job, and what sort of dollars you are being set back when its all done.

Meggala - how many options are out there? Its bloody huge, at least going the R33 turbo, you can resell with out loosing alot of cash as the price second hand seems pretty constant. I wish I could stop my missus driving my car, just cant relax knowing she is out on the street with my ride - the things you do.

I believe you have done a bit of research as well Meggala, what is needed is a definitive guide to choosing a turbo - type vs efficient power range vs lag vs topend vs cost vs A/R ratios vs cubes etc, etc. At the moment, I am leaning toward the HKS 3037 or perhaps a plain GT version - dont want too much lag, dont want to have to make huge amounts of boost to get a decent response (all the nasty side effects), would like a decent torque curve and I'm still not 100% on what my top end power should be?

Anyone have any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7869-vg30-turbo/page/2/#findComment-116684
Share on other sites

on an r33 a 3037 is very good look at around 240-250 rwkw @ 1bar or so. but you need a gate and manifold.

it all depends on what you level of commitment is if you want to do injectors afm and ecu .a 2530 or a 40 is great and should make 230 rwkw with stock injectors and aftermarket ecu and bolts straight up cause its internal gate or get you stock one hiflowed but to me thats a bit of a compromise but covers alot of legal issues. t04 e or s is another option but a bit laggy for the s one but they make heaps of power my advise is set a power goal then get a turbo to suit it. if its over 250 rwkw dont expect a lag free turbo

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7869-vg30-turbo/page/2/#findComment-116690
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...