Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey can any1 tell me wats wrong coz i definitely dnt have a clue on wats going on. Just say i gear to 1-2-3-4 then jst running at an average speed lets say 60-70 kph, then i jst pop it to neutral and then sometimes i feel that the revs drops down, to almost zero as if the car is stalling while moving? Then there was this certain time that the engine did die, like the engine's turned off, and im sure it is off. After that wen i put it back to gear the car just start running again??? Is there anything wrong if so which 1 coz im totally lost Thx for the help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79295-engine-stalling/
Share on other sites

If you turn the car off while moving, with your foot in on the clutch, if you turn the key to ignition and drop the clutch the car will start again. Makes it handy when you have a dead battery. Put your car into 2nd gear get a couple of mates to push you and drop the clutch and presto! Your car starts. Well thats that problem fixed.

Not sure about your other issue. Check the forums, there are alot of threads on stalling issues

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79295-engine-stalling/#findComment-1446449
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...